WIP Blade Runner: 2019 STEYR M44

Hello, Cool project. I built a shooter Bladerunner Blaster a couple of years ago. I did a tutorial on the project and maybe something in it will help you.
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=114441&highlight=building+blaster

I am currently building a second shooter but this time with a correct, real Steyr SL .222 upper with bolt, etc. The only difference is that this second shooter will have the accurate Steyr pieces and not a replica upper.

The machining of the Steyr upper is not for feint of heart! :-O
 
eltee said:
Hello, Cool project. I built a shooter Bladerunner Blaster a couple of years ago. I did a tutorial on the project and maybe something in it will help you.
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=114441&highlight=building+blaster

I am currently building a second shooter but this time with a correct, real Steyr SL .222 upper with bolt, etc. The only difference is that this second shooter will have the accurate Steyr pieces and not a replica upper.

The machining of the Steyr upper is not for feint of heart! :-O
Click to expand...

Yeah that part is just looming in the distance, terrifying me. I'm sure people would love to see that process broken down. Your last build turned out great!
 
Veektohr, thanks for the suggestion on the grips and Biscotte. I may attempt to go ahead with lighting the grips, as I haven't seen that done before...or maybe not haha!

eltee, I have read your thread many times. Many many times in fact. It's been a big source of inspiration for me actually. I can't wait to see your second blaster! And, yeah...I am dreading the receiver work for sure.
 
Buch, thanks for the support. I totally agree. Plus, I got this Steyr for a song (as far as Steyrs go anyway) so I won't be in the market for another no matter what.

Ive been considering posting a tally of costs involved thus far, to help any other aspiring blaster builders so that everyone can size up the sort of investment required, but I don't know if that would really be beneficial as I mentioned, I got several of the pieces for way less than the going rate. What do you think, Anders?
 
If you have the time to make a cost estimate on the this project I think it would be pretty helpful for others considering doing the real thing :D

mugatu said:
Buch, thanks for the support. I totally agree. Plus, I got this Steyr for a song (as far as Steyrs go anyway) so I won't be in the market for another no matter what.

Ive been considering posting a tally of costs involved thus far, to help any other aspiring blaster builders so that everyone can size up the sort of investment required, but I don't know if that would really be beneficial as I mentioned, I got several of the pieces for way less than the going rate. What do you think, Anders?
Click to expand...
 
i remember Adam Savage while visiting the owner of the original blaster fooling around about having one in each hand. i know for sure the steyer is also build as left handed, so mirror image of the right handed version :) :)
 
Okay, you asked for opinions, and even though this probably won't be a popular one, I do feel compelled to express it. You are creating a "prop" that will in fact, be a deadly weapon. The two should not be combined! I have nothing against firearms, I own several. I own even more blaster replicas. They are parts of two separate hobbies. While I'm sure you intend to be as safe as possible, there is going to be an inherent tendency for anyone handling the blaster to forget it's a real firearm. You will have to keep it locked up, not on display, at least that will be the responsible thing to do. But as I know you will probably proceed anyway I do have a few recommendations.

Do not, under any circumstances, underestimate the sharp, strong forces exerted when firing live ammunition (don't forget, the hero prop, while able to fire, was only ever used to fire blanks, there's a lot less force with blanks). Do not use ANY zinc parts. Zinc is a very brittle metal and could be shattered by the sharp forces involved. Especially it's use as the trigger guard should be avoided. Nothing should be glued in place. Every part should have a strong mechanical connection.

Be responsible, be safe, do what Adam did, have a gunsmith file down the firing pin and decommission the revolver. I hope you never have to realize it was a mistake not to.
 
DaveG, thanks for responding. You raise some very good points. No Zinc will be used in this build. This gun will also not be on display but locked up securely, as a firearm. I'll have to disagree that anyone handling it will mistake it for a prop. Perhaps one or two might, but no one besides me will be handling the firearm once the build is complete and should that ever change, I will certainly install or remove features that allow it to operate. No glue either. Good points already considered, but I do appreciate your concern and advice.
 
mugatu said:
DaveG, thanks for responding. You raise some very good points. No Zinc will be used in this build. This gun will also not be on display but locked up securely, as a firearm. I'll have to disagree that anyone handling it will mistake it for a prop. Perhaps one or two might, but no one besides me will be handling the firearm once the build is complete and should that ever change, I will certainly install or remove features that allow it to operate. No glue either. Good points already considered, but I do appreciate your concern and advice.
Click to expand...

There is really no firing pin to grind as the Bulldog does not have a hammer mounted pin. Simply remove the floating pin to inert the firearm. PM me if you'd like, I have other methods to safeguard the gun while it is on display. Part of the joy of building a shooter is ... shooting it whether it be blanks, squibs, or low power hand loads. A simple trigger shield will add more security if you decide to keep the firing pin in. There is also a cool device that is invisible from the exterior but locks the cylinder and blocks the barrel.

We worked on a couple of the Steyr receivers today. We removed what was left of the barrel, it was torqued into the threaded upper receiver. I am hoping I can mill it into the end cap of the upper where that pin like rod extends. One caution is clamping the Steyr with its asymmetric shape and polished surfaces. We 3D printed vice jaw covers and use a Kurt vise on the milling machine. Once you open up the bottom of the Steyr on the final mill pass you risk the receiver piece collapsing a little from over pressure from the vice and no support on the bottom since you've milled it off. We may put a filler piece in there to prevent crushing or to prevent the piece jumping out of the vice once the resistance from a once solid bottom disappears.

- - - Updated - - -

PS, didn't mean to hijack your thread. Please carry on with your very cool project.
 
Hi Andy

I just read my way through this thread and there´s nothing more encouraging for me to say than "DO IT" and "HAVE FUN".
I know about how important this project is for you and the results will be nothing less than spectacular.

If all your WIP posts will be as complex, entertaining and informative as the first posts of this thread, this surely will be an interesting read.

GO Andy, GO Andy, Go Andy !!!
 
eltee, I didn't consider anything you've mentioned to be a hijack. This is all a learning experience for me as well, and I certainly feel the work you've done previously as well as what you are currently doing is beneficial for my build. Anything you can add here, anytime you can add it, is something I prefer to have happen.

Markus, thanks for the support, buddy. I appreciate it. I'm going to give this build all I have, that's for sure!
 
Broilermaker said:
wow totally cool, i wonderif the rifles' set and firing trigger and guard could be used on the revolver. this could be the best blade runner gun yet
Click to expand...

Broilermaker, I'm not sure the triggers and guard from the Steyr could be used due to size issues. The triggers on the Steyr are much nicer than the Bulldog triggers, though, which are a bit "chunky". Thanks for the support!
 
that first picture was a "bladerunner" centerfold.... "hi my name is amber.. I love dog's, my measurements are 222/44.. I like long cradling hugs in leather and the occasional explosion of my trigger being pulled. looking forward to retiring very very soon... :love
 
Since your barrel is attached, and removing it is harder than on typical rifles, you may have to do a relief cut on the bottom of your receiver. If you cut your barrel leave some stub on it as shown here. BarrelStub.jpg
 
ReceiverCap.jpg There is that end cap piece on the end of the upper where that rod / pin attached to the bolt protrudes from. Rich makes one but I may try to machine the stub into a cap since it is already threaded for the receiver. Lots of detail machining then you have to cut a chunk out of it.

- - - Updated - - -

BreechCap.jpgHere is one from Rich mounted on my first shooter.
 
mugatu said:
Veektohr, thanks for the suggestion on the grips and Biscotte. I may attempt to go ahead with lighting the grips, as I haven't seen that done before...or maybe not haha!

eltee, I have read your thread many times. Many many times in fact. It's been a big source of inspiration for me actually. I can't wait to see your second blaster! And, yeah...I am dreading the receiver work for sure.
Click to expand...

I really hope you do the lighted grips. Ultimately, the LED's are controllable, having the option to show them off with an amber glow would be so choice.
Just my two cents...
 
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