ROGUE ONE Jyn Erso - open build thread!

Also, I forgot - we have 20 days until Star Wars Celebration Orlando!

How many of us are going to SWCO? I would love to get together with our Jyns/other costumes for a photo. I've started a Google Group to keep track of who's going so we can possibly meet up somewhere during one of the convention days. We've worked so hard on our projects together, I think we should share what we've done in person! And if you're not yet showing off a Jyn costume that weekend, it would still be marvelous to meet you guys.

If you are going to SWCO and are interested in meeting other members of The RPF, send me a PM with your e-mail address and I will add you to the Google Group. I've created a check-in thread with some preliminary information and ideas.

erinnn said:

Thank you!

Jyn's hair is bangs and layers. You can see it best in this still

View attachment 715729

As she goes throughout the movie, her bangs get slicked back, but it's pretty hard to create the layers that have the same effect. Totally looking for advice if anyone has it!

I've done the flyaway attempt, and tried pulling hair out, but it ends up looking silly

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I'd probably loosely part the hair from ear to ear (or at whatever point gets you the right layers) then put the back portion in the bun. Then, fluff the layers/bangs a little to cover the part? I don't have the right haircut at the moment to try it, though.

Chrononaut said:

I'd probably loosely part the hair from ear to ear (or at whatever point gets you the right layers) then put the back portion in the bun. Then, fluff the layers/bangs a little to cover the part? I don't have the right haircut at the moment to try it, though.

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Ah, exactly! I am trying to find a way to fake the short layers. If I come up with anything I'll let you know.

Fellow Jyn Sisters! I have a question about the A-180: I purchased a 3D print from Etsy, and upon receiving it thought it was much too big. So I purchased another from a different seller with a different print, and it's the same size. Can someone let me know what the correct length should be? Thanks!

jk4reals, the WE version of the P08 Luger is 262 mm from the back to the end of the barrel, or just about 10 5/16". If there is an orange safety cap on the barrel that will add a few more mms.

erinnn said:

Hi!
I don't think I did a ~perfect job, but I used the same leather dye that I did on my boots and gloves for the ALICE adapter. I applied it liberally and did one coat. You can see it here (and for everyone who is wondering what's up, I'm modding the Disney store kids' vest for now, since my measurements are just so small anyway!) https://www.instagram.com/p/BRgoa5Qhva-/?taken-by=acosplayfarfaraway

I used the same leather dye on the M60 backpack, which is the strap underneath the tubing and the same webbing rectangles

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Restill smithjohnj erinnn,

We (mr paul and I) ran into exactly the same issue when modding the A.L.I.C.E. pack component of the RO Jedha Stormtrooper Crystal Patrol backpack. The nylon webbing on those packs is very resistant to dyeing. We had to mod the Olive Drab packs with OD webbing to black to get the SA look. We used 'DYLON' dye to change the colour of the whole pack. As the pack was so large we couldn't follow the packet instructions for stove top boiling. Therefore we used boiling water and a half recommended ratio water:dye mix and agitated continually for 1 hour the let 'stew' for 10+ hours. Then full cold water rinse, drip dry and the warm water hand wash. Mr Paul's took, mine did not. So results variable. I ended up using black liquid shoe polish and 'painted' this onto whole pack including the webbing. That worked.

As you are looking at much smaller webbing components the stovetop method may be the best way to proceed?

Just thought I would share the pain, but also offer some possible solutions.

NB: the bottom component of the pack is the A.L.I.C.E. pack with the webbing on the sides.

Looking for a little bit of advice on how to handle the "flak vest" pockets for Jyn. I tried a little mock-up last night - cutting out a self-drafted pocket and gusset and trying to stitch those together and then figure out how to stitch it all onto the vest. But it just didn't look right. The curve of the pocket looked just...wonky beyond all belief. And I couldn't figure out how to stitch the dang thing down.

If anyone has a pattern, ideas, or pictures that might give me better clues on how to handle this pocket situation, I'd appreciate your help. I've never handled gusset pockets like this before. Thank you!

smithjohnj, I believe, posted a pattern much earlier in the thread, which is the one I used. It is a major pain in the @55. To stitch it to the vest front, I had to ease it in like you would a sleeve. I believe I attached the gusset to the pocket front, and then swore my way through getting it stitched to the vest front. I really wish I could remember/explain better. IIRC, once the gusset was attached, I pinned the gusset to the vest front, using the pleat in the gusset to allow me to get it flat to the vest front. I then stitched the gusset down, and came back and did the non gusset side. Both pockets took a couple of tries to get it to where I was happy with it.

Been a busy few days here in Casa Ginger: Got both boots re-dyed and conditioned; they're ready for a finish, whether that be Resolene or Nikwax. Pants are 90% complete, with only the tourniquet straps, the waistband, and the hem left to complete. Shirt is cut out and prepped; given that it's already late here, I won't start on it until tomorrow.

Like Straycatt, I'm starting to look at the vest and get a bit concerned. Everything else I've pretty well got (I think), but pockets sometimes elude me, especially when they're bellowed and curved. Will definitely have to go back through the thread and see about the previous posts. I clearly missed something, despite poring over things pretty well.

Also still have to paint the weapons, and get the flaps done for the boots. ::takes a deeeep breath:: It's gonna be a crazy couple of weeks around here!

I'm kinda wishing I'd decided to finish Hera instead. Ah well. She'll have to wait for DragonCon. Now, if only we could get the voice actors there...

I provided a pdf pattern in post #123 on page 5. Since it seems people are still working on their vests here are some more details about my approach which I did not add on the patterns.

After cutting out the two pieces I joined them along the outside edge aligning the fabric pieces at the top, sewing down to the fold line 1, pivoting the gusset continuing down to the top of the pleat. Then as I continued to sew, I narrowed the seam allowance down to nothing by sewing at an angle and off the raw edges of the pieces before I got to the middle of the pleat. I then clipped the seam line as necessary and folded down what is the top edge, (fold 1 and fold 2),pinned and top-stitched them. This made sure my topstitching "matched up" at the edge because it was a continuous line of stitching pivoted slightly at the seam line (and the reason I did my pattern the way I did). Next I pinned and sewed the bottom of the gusset to the bottom of the pocket starting at the inside edge, across the bottom and up the curved corner to the top of the pleat. I had to use a lot of pins and a template to get the curve smooth. Since this is the outside visible part of the pocket it is the most important part to look correct. I then used some cotton embroidery floss to add the"distress stitching" along the bottom and outside edge. On the right pocket I think a "wrinkle" was stitched into the pocket to add some interest or maybe to look like a snag. It seemed to be on every image I examined.

Finally I sewed the pocket to the vest. This requires a good deal of fabric manipulation when sewing the rounded corner. I am terrible at sewing curves so I did this in three steps. My starts and stops ends up on the inside the pocket so they are not visible. I first pinned and sewed the straight seam allowance edge from the gusset top down to Point A. Then I sewed the second straight line from the inside corner out to Point B. In the third step I used a lot of pins and my circle template to sew down the corner. The last attachment step was to fold the inside pocket edge seam allowance under (fold 3) and topstitched the final side of the pocket down.

I am sure a more experienced seamstress or tailor could do this much faster and simpler but this seemed to work for me and I was able to keep both sides looking pretty consistent.

Hello everyone!

For those of you going to Celebration, I have purchased a photo op with Felicity Jones. It could be a lot of fun to get a photo with four Jyns (and her) in it! If you're interested and will be cosplaying her on Saturday the 15th, send me a PM. If we can get four of us, the photo op will be $66.57 each (it came out to $266.25 total with tax), three of us will be $88.75, and two will be $133.13. MUCH better (and more cost effective) than how pricy a FJ photo is!

There will be one printed copy. I don't need it, so someone else can grab dibs. I am totally fine with a digital copy (less to carry anyway).

Let me know if interested!

EDIT: I believe we have found our Jyns! If you'd like to be an alternate, feel free to send me a message!

Quick question. How tall are people making the collar?

@Straycatt I assume you are working on the vest. In the best images I have, the collar has three rows of stitches with a little fabric on the top edge and some before attaching to the neckline. Since I made my rows 1 cm. apart I took the collar height as approximately 2.5 cm or 1". I did not make the jacket but I did do a design exercise for one and I had the collar height of the jacket at 2" This allows the jacket collar to be exposed above and behind the vest collar when they are worn together. The best evidence of the relationship between the collar without the scarf is the SDCC photos.

smithjohnj said:

@Straycatt I assume you are working on the vest. In the best images I have, the collar has three rows of stitches with a little fabric on the top edge and some before attaching to the neckline. Since I made my rows 1 cm. apart I took the collar height as approximately 2.5 cm or 1". I did not make the jacket but I did do a design exercise for one and I had the collar height of the jacket at 2" This allows the jacket collar to be exposed above and behind the vest collar when they are worn together. The best evidence of the relationship between the collar without the scarf is the SDCC photos.

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Thank you, that is exactly what I was looking for. I need to attach the webbing to the outside left panel (under the storm flap) and to both sides of the lining and I will be ready to assemble. Your patterns have been a godsend in getting this done, so thank you again.

Why does it always seem that, when I'm elbow-deep in a sewing project, is when the writing muses want to kick in? Spent half the day yesterday writing before heading into the sewing room. It was time to tackle the collar. While I had drafted it up similar to others in the thread, I was still unsure of how, exactly, I was going to attach it. I ended up laying the shirt over my dress form and working out placement. I then trimmed the neckline to the lines I'd marked, and ended up sandwiching the edge of the shirt between a folded top edge of the collar and a serger-finished bottom. It's not the cleanest thing I've ever modded, but it will do for now. Because I'm not entirely thrilled with the fabric, I'm planning on redoing the whole thing if I have the time.

Hoping to finish up the shirt today, and turn full attention to the vest. The fabric I purchased is a bit light. For time and cost considerations, I opted for cotton, so I'd planned on giving it a coffee bath to help tone it. Now I wonder if I shouldn't just tone it before I make the vest, and then do the smear-it-with-coffee-grinds-to-age-and-dirty-it-up thing afterward.

Side projects currently include painting props and I still have to get the re-dyed boots sealed and flaps done. I'm also debating on whether or not to re-dye the Stone gloves, or just make my own. In some ways, I think it would be easier to do so. And, at least that way, I know they'd fit. Even the XS gloves are still a half-mile too big. =\

So I have some new insights as I'm working through the vest. It's coming along. I made a pattern using computer paper and masking tape, I've top-stitched the fronts and front facings, stitched the facings to the linings, hand-stitched two stripes down each side of the front, and I've attached the ALICE strips above the pockets and the tube webbing.

I started working on the pockets and front flap, for which I used the same fabric as the back of the vest (cotton twill) as was discussed in this thread previously. The cotton twill I chose for the back of the vest is not the correct fabric to use for the pockets for my vest, and I decided this after playing with the drape of the pockets and the pull of the fabric beneath the top-stitching. I also tried Otter fabric wax on both the back and front fabrics and I've got to say, first, that the wax looks amazing, and second, the wax on the nylon looks just like it does in the photos. The cotton twill back fabric is still too thick and after waxed doesn't look comparable to vest photos.

In addition, The Rebel Legion updated standard suggest using the same fabric for the vest front (for me that's nylon) as the front flap. (e. There is a rectangular horizontal flap attached between the left pocket and left webbing strip. Flap is made of the same fabric as the front of the vest. from http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=928260#928260 )

So for me, if I want to be up to standard, I ought to use nylon for the front flap, and to get the correct drape for the pockets, I'll also use nylon. I'm bummed that the nylon I chose is ripstop and doesn't have the diagonal pattern seen in Jyn close-ups, but I think I'll be happier with it.

I hope you're all having luck with your costumes! A few people have joined the group I created for people going to SW Celebration Orlando for a meet-up. Send me your e-mail address if you're interested in meeting up at SWCO. Apologies to those who are already added, I was hoping to start solidifying plans by now, but I've been working on my Jyn vest! I'll be puzzling through the schedule next week.

Restill, I chose to use nylon ripstop for the entire construction (didn't want to try and match dyes) and I have to say the texture and drape looks spot on to my eye ... If you are using the really lightweight nylon, let me suggest doubling the fabric for each pocket (i.e. make it two layers, folded on the pocket top,) and pad the storm flap. I used thin cotton quilt batting my wife's.

I was doing a bit more obsessive fabric research while waiting for an opportunity to finally dye the fabric and discovered 3D mesh or military spacer mesh. (As an alternative for felt or closed cell foam for the vest front padding for those on especially hot weather.) There are some versions about 1/4" thick -- and they cost around the same as 1/4" felt. It's used for things like car seat covers and... padding/breathability underneath bulletproof vests and backpacks. Apparently it has a similar drape/density as neoprene, but with added breathability. Has anyone worked with it before?

Also... is anyone else hearing "This is the song that never ends..." playing in the background?

I haven't tried it with waxed cotton, but with my heavier ripstop cotton, the pocket drape benefited greatly from being both washed and dried (in the dryer) as well being wetted down pretty heavily with a spray bottle and left to dry with something pretty heavy (I used ziplock bags of pennies) for a few days. That did amazing things for the originally far-too-crisp drape.

Before: https://instagram.com/p/BL9rNZ2gx43/

While drying (also after dye): https://instagram.com/p/BNtAfAVAbUk/

@CarpElgin I haven't heard of military spacer mesh, but the stuff looks wild. And I definitely have that song in my head, and they're not kidding when it never...ever...ends...

You are all so brave, popping your finished garments in the washer and dryer! I'm always afraid my stitches will come undone, or something terrible will happen. I did already start waxing the vest fabric, which probably shouldn't be thrown in the wash at this point, but the wax is doing to the fabric exactly what I was hoping for - and it looks good on the cotton twill as well. I thought about trying nylon for the back too, but I rather like the feel of the twill. I used a ripstop nylon that was 1.9oz for the front pieces ( Straycatt is this the same weight you used?), but the fabric seems to have a decent drape. It could be slightly heavier, but I like it so far. Here's a progress shot. I'm still working on the waistband and rubber tubes.



Now, this tie-tack quilting thing - I've been looking up videos online but I'm not sure if they are showing the same techniques used for Jyn's vest. Does anybody have any insight on this?

Also I just noticed all the cat hair on the lining...oops! I waxed the vest at a friend's last night and they have two fuzzballs.