ROGUE ONE Jyn Erso - open build thread!

I can't remember which snaps I used, but they were fairly sizeable. Here's what I did to make the snaps match what I saw in photos:



I used a thicker leather for the strap that I attached the snaps to, and then I stitched a thinner leather to the thicker leather after the snaps were attached, pressing the thin leather around the button to make it stand out more. To make the stitching easier you could probably glue them together with E-6000 or something. The leather I bought is pretty crappy, too...it was that overpriced stuff you see hanging at Joann's, haha. When I get home I'll try to figure out which snaps I bought and let you know.

Hi again. I thought I'd add a few photos of the finished pin tucks and webbing on the pants. I also just found out that the costume standards on The Rebel Legion say the pants should be black, instead of "faded black/dark gray/dark blue" as was shown previously. Luckily cotton can be fairly easily dyed black, and I have been using cotton thread for the same reason, but I'm going to contact them first about the fabric color I've been using as it seems fairly consistent with varied lighting in stills/photos of Jyn's pants. I'll let you know what they say when I hear back. For that reason I figured I'd wait to add the printed squares to the webbing strap. I'm still not even sure I'll be printing them as print screen kits seem fairly expensive. We'll see.

Here's how I did the pintucks:
They took me far longer to figure out than I hoped, but I ended up removing the front side panels and transferring 3 x the shape of the removed panel to fabric to be cut out. I've got pretty thick ankles and the pintucks don't appear to taper, but they do. The un-pintucked fabric ended up being about 28.9 cm on the top and 26 cm on the bottom. I made 25 lines from the seam allowance for 8 pintucks and measured each line to 1.16 cm on top, and 1.04 on the bottom, keeping the lines parallel to the seam allowance line. It took about 6 tries before I got this right for some odd reason...but, miraculously, the pants are nearly there.




Update on pants color: Looks like there is a proposed revision for the standard posted on The Rebel Legion for Jyn Erso that includes "Pants are faded black (black, dark grey, or very dark blue accepted) cotton/denim with a wide high-waisted waistband with tab." Members of TRL will be voting on this revision very soon, but it seems any of these colors will be accepted.
http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=81534&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Hello! Sorry to ask so many questions, but maybe someone else is having this issue?

I am very small (5'0 and 98 lbs). The vest should be fitted, but my issue is that all of the flaps/details just . . . don't . . . fit on the vest, without looking too crowded or veering off the vest. Anyone know of a fix? For example, the M60 buckle can't fit between the flap closure and the pocket. Is it better to make the vest bigger than it should be?

And since I should add something, I just want to say that I've been using nail polish and a toothpick to weather some scratches into the boots, and it's working well!

@erinn you might try to scale all of the individual components to make them proportionately smaller. For example the greebie webbing for Felcity Jones is 40 mm, but you might try to use a 1" or 25 mm piece and make the hoses smaller perhaps using electrical wires instead of rubber hoses. The "name tape" webbing might be reduced to 3/4" webbing, etc. The pocket could also be "shrunk" in both height and width to give you more space and also match the proporations of the other elements. As long as the design elements are proporational things should work out. This also may mean the stitch lines need to be closer.

smithjohnj said:

@erinn you might try to scale all of the individual components to make them proportionately smaller. For example the greebie webbing for Felcity Jones is 40 mm, but you might try to use a 1" or 25 mm piece and make the hoses smaller perhaps using electrical wires instead of rubber hoses. The "name tape" webbing might be reduced to 3/4" webbing, etc. The pocket could also be "shrunk" in both height and width to give you more space and also match the proporations of the other elements. As long as the design elements are proporational things should work out. This also may mean the stitch lines need to be closer.

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Thank you! I will do all of those things. I think my main issue is the M60 buckle, but perhaps I can look into someone who can 3D model and print it instead.

It shouldn't be to hard to make a smaller version from brass rod. That would also allow you to solder the cross bar on.

@erinn you might check my post# 201 on page 9. Before the M60 hook was found I was attempting to fabricate a hook to fit the smaller 1" webbing. I was able to make a reasonable version fairly easy (covered in an earlier post) but I had the necessary tools available. The diagram may also be useful to someone looking to make a 3D model.

I'm the exact same size as you, erinnn, I've had only minor problems: My pockets are skewing a little big, and the horizontal webbing takes up more room because the shoulders are skinnier, but I don't think it looks out of place. I made my vest big enough so it should fit over the jacket, so it should be a little oversized. Do you have pictures?

After 9 dye tests, I finally got a color I'm happy with for my jacket, but I spent 1.5 hours trying to capture the color. This is probably why the color of the jacket changes so drastically between pictures anyway. But, my color is a little duller/grayer than this. It's not too colorful so I'm pretty happy with it. I got a silk screening kit to try to do the stripes.

is anybody working on the Eadu costume. I am flummoxed by her helmet

dmurano I have not been working on the Eadu costume but I have found the images provided by "withoutastitchon" at flickr.com to provide the best details I have seen. The goggles are the only component of her cap which has been identified on the rpf threads to the best of my knowledge. I find I get more helpful responses from the community with a specific question or even a list of specific questions.

smithjohnj said:

@dmurano I have not been working on the Eadu costume but I have found the images provided by "withoutastitchon" at flickr.com to provide the best details I have seen. The goggles are the only component of her cap which has been identified on the rpf threads to the best of my knowledge. I find I get more helpful responses from the community with a specific question or even a list of specific questions.

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THANKS FOR THE TIP :thumbsup

dmurano said:

is anybody working on the Eadu costume. I am flummoxed by her helmet

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There are apparently similarities to Leia's Endor helmet in RotJ. Check post #644 on page 26 of this thread, it might help steer you in the right direction.


I also thought I'd post an update on Jyn Erso's boots. I bought the Frye boots in whiskey, dyed them dark brown, sealed them, and used sandpaper to weather them. I also took a leaf from erinnn's book and used a pin to add scratches, which I then went over again with sandpaper. I spent the weekend dyeing/stitching/glueing leather, and bending wires to fit the buckle. The buckle I have is not the shortest buckle from the LANGE Z series ski boots, but if I shorten the wire they work well enough. The wire used for the right boot will need to be remade, but I found a wire clothes hanger is the exact size to fit into the buckle holes, so I'll be bending and cutting one of these tonight to completely finish the boots.

To make the boot flaps I stitched a thick cowhide (5 oz) to the boots and glued a dyed and top-stitched thin cowhide (3 oz) to the thick leather. I bought the leather from The Leather Guy, who ships RIDICULOUSLY fast and sells affordable leather pieces perfect for small projects. I wish I would have taken the less-permanent route to doing this, though, as @smithjohnj suggested on page 26, but I like how these turned out, in any case. To make the flaps stay down I bought sticky Velcro strips and planned on gluing them to the boot using E-6000, but they were surprisingly adhesive on their own...I may not have to glue them down at all. We will see.

I'm also a little concerned, even after sealing the dye, if the boots get wet at all the dye will come off the boots (and onto my hands). I sealed them with the Angelus matte finisher, but I may go the beeswax route instead. I also wondered, has anybody thought about coating the vest in wax? It's apparently incredibly easy, and the vest appears to be coated in many images. Here's a how-to guide, if interested: How to Wax Your Own Clothing and Gear



@verdaera, I'm glad you finally found a color you're happy with for the jacket! I'm curious to hear how your silkscreening goes, I've been looking at prices for these kits and I'm not sure what would be most reasonable.

I had posted an earlier attempt at my version of the Crozo MAL-2 Comlink. As I gain a little more experience with my new 3D printer I am getting closer to my vision. Here is the top which is comprised of four separate pieces which allows for a working pushbutton. The set screws are a little too large but were the smallest available locally. (Fortunately China's manufacturing facilities are only an eBay away.) The main tube will be aluminum and I am working to include a Bluetooth speaker and LED. (Bodhi's comlink did light up in the movie didn't it?)





As always I welcome critiques and corrections.
Chrononaut thank you for the heads up on the bad link.

Bodhi's comlink did light up in the movie didn't it?

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Yes it did.

smithjohnj said:

Bodhi's comlink did light up in the movie didn't it?

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So did Cassian's. Light looks kind of orangey.
https://i1.wp.com/www.slashfilm.com...ogueone-cassian-indisguise.jpg?resize=736,308


(Can't see the attachment to critique yours, but sounds cool though.)

Oooo, I love the dye job on your boots Restill, excellent job
As for the glove sewing, my fingers hurt a lot after doing mine too :/
I guess I did make some progress on the rest of my vest since I last posted, I just need to sew up my lining and find a clever yet practical way to sew up my armholes and straighten out the rubber cord I got for the front, since it's still curly from being spooled for a while. I also got my wig and with it actually being the first time ever I got a lace-front wig for a costume, I can't say I am displeased; the colour and style are very nice and the hair feels soft and not too static. I also got my 3d prints for her BlasTech a-180 as well as her tonfa in the mail yesterday, so I will finish up my belt with a holster sometime soon.

Cookiedala said:

practical way to ... straighten out the rubber cord I got for the front,

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I had the same problem with the rubbber hoses I was using. I found directing a little heat from a (hair dryer) or heat gun helped the rubber relax. I did this before assembly and wrapped the cord around a firm support of the approximate length (in my case a wide quilting ruler) and warmed it up. If you have some leftover cord you might give that a try to see if it speeds up the process and find the right level of heat.. If yours is already on the vest for at least the hanging right side you might attach a light weight to apply some tension and warm the cord based on your test.

Relaxing the rubber with heat is a great tip! I'll test that out this weekend.

Those people who are hoping to submit their costume to The Rebel Legion, the costume standard has been updated and voted on. I expect this is what we'll see on the official Jyn Erso costume standard page soon: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=928260&sid=b87e59bf847560bb473d54ecf43da2ae

CarpElgin said:

Now I remember that! I've had some experiences with really crappy, cheap-looking, consumer puff paint in the past, that doesn't look very good after the first wear, so I really didn't want to go that route. But, after a fruitless search for my original assumptions, I am learning that I should pay better attention, here.

I don't have any experience with screen printing (yet) but it appears that on the higher end, the Jacquard Screen Printing Puff Additive, would be the best way to go, since you could control the amount of puff and the color relatively easily.

http://www.dharmatrading.com/chemicals/jacquard-screen-printing-puff-additive.html

On the low end, I've ordered some white Tulip Puffy paint and soft matte paint in brown and black, to do some cheap tests for the bars on my first version of the pants. (Since the jacket is optional, I can put it off until the temps are below 90F.) The Matte won't puff on its own when hit with the heat gun, but the Puffy will. I have no idea what will happen when they are mixed.

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I realize I'm pulling a quote from a long time ago in a thread page far, far away...but I was actually curious how this "low end" technique worked out for you, CarpElgin. Any updates you have would be awesome. I was actually thinking of trying the same thing, but my trial run end up not puffing at all. I haven't gotten back to do a second test.