1:50 T-70 X-Wing in Black: Poe Dameron

i am leaf

New Member
I've started a thread to document my Revell 1:50 Resistance X-Wing, and to show some of the modifications to the model I've made with tubing, hobby wire, and anything else I can get my hands on. Out of the box the kit doesn't show much detail so I've use some of the high-definitions found in the X-wing threads here as reference images. Since the T-70 was shot in CG as opposed to the model method of the original trilogy, this leaves us without any actual physical representation of how this ship would look if real. We have several shots of the pilots in the cockpits during dogfighting and a handful as pilots get ready for battle, otherwise digital renderings is the best source material we have. I've since been taking some artistic license in the greebly areas behind the astromech compartment and on the aft greeblies where we see Poe dash to in the opening skirmish on Jakku. I'll show some highlights with each photo. Major shoutout to mcusanelli & jhazard



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A. Adding some panel detail both in score lines and in extrusions. The out of the box panel lines have been painted on with hardly any void / extrusion dimensions, so much of my work has been in adding dimension to the panels as well has hull greeblies. I'll be priming the finished model in grey and coming back with a base wash of gunmetal.

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B. More greeblies to the exposed area behind the droid, as well as the aft panel. Used some 24a. hobby wire and styrene to beef up the articulation on the wings, as well as some salvaged parts off a Tamiya F-1 kit and a 1:48 tomcat. Because the T-70 wasn't actually built like a T-65 would have been 35 years ago, I've taken some artistic license to the greeblies and engine areas to make it feel like it has some guts. Although this ship is much more sleek than the predecessor, I think some guts are necessary to highlight the mechanical components

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C. I took a dremel and file to the recessed areas that are filled in on the wing panels out of the box. The renderings show some exposed engine parts there, which this kit lacks (though several of the Bandai photos from different threads show that that kit exposes this area). It was a lot of filing to get the trapezoid shape correct but it's mostly right. I'm bashing more of the F-1 parts with some junk I found in the house to create those engines for the wings. I've been working on the cockpit too, and used an old A string off one of my guitars as conduit for the cockpit, plus more tomcat parts for the targeting computer, as well as hobby wire for the fine detail piping. Next will be adding the trailing edge to the wings and some details to the exhaust of each engine.
More to come soon!
 
leaf,
I like what you're doing on this! The engine area is bland, I wish I would have done this and added some parts here. I also like the details you added to the surface! looking forward to seeing more!
 
Yeah what Mcusanelli said, I wish I'd taken the time to sort those areas out!

It looks great so far mate, can't wait to see the rest
 
See! Revell has made for 'added play value' for us OCD modelers after all!
;^P

You're after my own thoughts there, Mr/Ms. Leaf. That missing engine detail in the wing was one of the first things that caught my eye...

Regards, Robert
 
I've been using drywall spackle to enclose gaps and some areas of inconsistency, but I'm finding it's not priming and finishing like I'd like. Anyone have any recommendations on gap fillers or molding agents that sand to a clean finish?
 
leaf,. If you coat the spackle with super glue, it may seal it up, but it may take a couple of coats.
The smoothest stuff I've ever used is superglue and baby / talcum powder. Mix it into a past with a tooth pick and once it's hard, it sands and carves like styrene. I use this on plastic, metal ( I fixed a dent on my car once with this..!)and resin. You might need to try a couple of different glues, as they all dry / harden different. The one that I like is Lock-tite. Nicest consistancy, and it sticks to more materials than any others I've tried. Once you paint over it it's not porous either. Hope this helps!
 
Recommend using 'micro balloons' a product used a lot by RC modelers as a filler matrix for CA glue applications. It works like the talc/ baby powder but is inert (being made of glass) and hence will never chemically react to paints or the substrate materials (aka, the plastic.)

For creating smooth surfaces and filling minor gaps (no more than 1/16 without a bridging material such as plastic shims) I recommend 3M Acryl White Glazing putty, Sands to super smooth finish (if desired), bonds very well with plastics, accepts paint well and provides excellent scribing performance. Available through Amazon or any outlet selling automotive paint systems (not talking the auto parts stores but real 'paint' suppliers...) Avoid the 3M 'red' putty, it is too soft and too grainy for modeling work...

R/ Robert
 
Still moving on this, haven't lost sight of the end product and I promise to show more photos soon. I found this set of images of a cardboard T-70 online and am completely blown away, excellent modelling and a unique color scheme with the blue accent to the grey color on the tailpipes + cockpit. Can anyone recommend how to get this paint chipping texture? I tried brushing on oil based paint and using acetone on a cotton swab to blot out some of the color and expose the color beneath to get the actual chipping look, but its not producing the same effect. Blending light washes and using pastels for blurring and discoloration is fairly straightforward, but does anyone have a method of paint chipping they can share?
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There a a few methods.

The Hairspray method - You paint a undercoat in metal or whatever color you want under the chipping, then brush/airbursh the model with decanted hairspray, then while it is still slightly wet, you cover it with the top coat. Then use a water and tootpick (or other object) to physically apply the chipping. I have never tried it myself, but have seen it used to good effect

Salt Chipping - Again, apply a base color, apply some wetted down/crushed down rocksalt (not table salt) to the model. Then spray the top color. The when dry, flick off the salt. I have tried it. It can be hard to control and with certain paints (I believe water based) you might get odd discolorations close to where the salt was. But then again, I've seen great resutls from this as well

Liquid masking using something like Microscale Liquid mask. This is one of my preferred methods for lots of chiipping effects like on slave 1 or really rusted/dmaaged llooking things
http://www.amazon.com/Microscale-Industries-MI-7-Micro-Mask/dp/B0006O028U
Base coat. Then I sponge it on (using torn foam from gaming miniatures or other foam packing material) and/or paint it one using various old brushes. The top coat. The peel off the masking

Another technique I use is to base coat one color, then paint the top color, then take an xacto and actually scratch into the top color when it is still kind of "wet" or while it almost dry, but not fully cured (i.e. right at the stage where it could chip easily if handled while drying). This works good when chipping marking like the stripes and stuff

One more technique I've used is paint the chips on after the fact using drybrushing techniques and solver paint. Then highlight the edge of the chip using a lighter color to give it more depth. Can look good, but not quite as convincing as real chipping
 
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