Sterling E11 blaster project

cyberpyrot

Sr Member

• Nov 29, 2015

• #1

Just ordered a cut up sterling I will post pictures when it comes in. I just need to find a good welder

any advice from people who took this route?

 

jkno

Legendary Member

• Nov 30, 2015

• #2

This thread could be of help: http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=248657&p=3829652 There are similar topics on FISD too.

 

cyberpyrot

Sr Member

• Nov 30, 2015

• #3

thanks here are the pictures I was sent. is this doable?

 

JamesSamuel

New Member

• Nov 30, 2015

• #4

I'm no expert at all, but it's probably feasible it could be repaired to some extent, just get your Fusion Cutter out, that should do the job! Haha

The real question is why on earth would someone cut it up like that in the first place!?? :O

 

Last edited: Nov 30, 2015

Treadwell

Legendary Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Nov 30, 2015

• #5

Firearm laws. Can't sell something that can "readily" be converted into an operable, fully automatic firearm, so they cut them up.

 

Treadwell

Legendary Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Nov 30, 2015

• #6

CAN it be welded? Why, sure. Can it be done seamlessly? Probably not, especially the perforated barrel shroud. I guess if the welds were filed down and you followed with a body filler.

 

JamesSamuel

New Member

• Dec 1, 2015

• #7

Treadwell said:

Firearm laws. Can't sell something that can "readily" be converted into an operable, fully automatic firearm, so they cut them up.

Click to expand...

That's what Deactivation centres are for. For the equivalent of about $70, you can get them deactivated to a legal standard and proofed with a certificate, must better imo than cutting it up D: Makes me cringe seeing a bit of history destroyed like that!

 

Treadwell

Legendary Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Dec 1, 2015

• #8

Well the gun parts resellers aren't going to invest $70 a gun. It's a real shame, I agree.

 

jkno

Legendary Member

• Dec 1, 2015

• #9

JamesSamuel said:

That's what Deactivation centres are for. For the equivalent of about $70, you can get them deactivated to a legal standard and proofed with a certificate, must better imo than cutting it up D: Makes me cringe seeing a bit of history destroyed like that!

Click to expand...

Glad such things don't happen in EU, it is sad having a Sterling cut up like that. But there are people who made good E-11 from them nevertheless

 

JamesSamuel

New Member

• Dec 1, 2015

• #10

Depends how much it cost them in the first place I suppose, but I would have thought you could make more money on it by selling it deactivated than cut up into pieces :')

 

DARKSIDE72

Sr Member

• Dec 1, 2015

• #11

Sterlings are imported into the US. All machine guns imported are cut up per BATFE regulations. There is no such thing as deactivation centers in the US. Unless you consider customs armed with torches such. Back in the day it was nice because the receiver was saw cut. Making most of the original gun usable. Now you need a whole new receiver which opens up another bag of worms...

 

Fly4v

Sr Member

• Dec 1, 2015

• #12

It is very doable.... just how much cost and time.
The barrel shroud and the receiver trigger housing look to be the areas requiring the most work.

If I were lucky enough to have this, My biggest concern would be how to reassemble it and have it still be "deactivated"

 

mjhenks

Sr Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Dec 1, 2015

• #13

Where do you live? That may dictate what you can and cannot do.

I have taken three apart that were in that condition. Rebuild one and looking for time to do the other two. Get yourself some MAP gas, a vice, gloves and some time. Taking it apart is not hard, just lots of heat, a little TLC and some time and all the parts can be harvested.

They cut through your handle which is a bummer. You will need a replacement. IMS has them. The rear ring that holds on the rear cap is nearly impossible to get off without destroying it. For a static build that is not a big deal unless you want to be able to take it apart again. The nose cap is the hardest to get out. I usually turn (lathe) the rolled end off then use heat to get it out. The handle can also be a pain as it is flimsy and you really need it.

As for putting it back together that is where you need to know your local rules. Don't cross them. You will not win....

 

cyberpyrot

Sr Member

• Dec 1, 2015

• #14

im in texas

 

cyberpyrot

Sr Member

• Dec 2, 2015

• #15

Parts have arrived.

https://goo.gl/photos/h23eBi3Viqcwsiry9


how much of the magazine do I cut off?

https://goo.gl/photos/WvGBikRDuGC115UV8

 

thd9791

Master Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Dec 2, 2015

• #16

Here's a pic or two I have, depending on what version you're going for.

 

jkno

Legendary Member

• Dec 3, 2015

• #17

In ANH the E-11 magazines were quite short. Most of them shorter than what is shown on Master Replicas E-11




Leia promo shots:



Prop Store Bapty:

 

jkno

Legendary Member

• Dec 3, 2015

• #18

ESB Pugman and Sterling:

 

cyberpyrot

Sr Member

• Dec 6, 2015

• #19

Ok here is my plan. I will run some copper pipe the length of the inside then sweat it in place and cut all holes to match. The fill the torch cuts with solder. It might be heavier but I can't weld.

 

mjhenks

Sr Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Dec 7, 2015

• #20

You are going to sweat all the parts to the copper? Never thought of that. Will copper and steal sweat together?? If it will that will save some work in removing all the parts and re-forming the nose roll.

My first E-11 i used JB weld to mount all the parts on my fake receiver. Glued the back end shut with a wood dowel for the barrel. Just don't drop it or its coming apart so It is fine for a static prop. My next one i was going to silver solder together and permanently solder the rear cap in place again with a wood barrel. Never got anywhere thought....

Being in Texas you can do alot more then other parts of the country....