The Y-Wing "Green Leader" Project - NOW OPEN SOURCE!
- Thread starter DaveG
- Start date
I've split off the final painting and detailing of my Y-Wing build to a separate thread so that this one can continue to focus on the Y-Wing project as a whole. The new thread is here:
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=274998&p=4214976#post4214976
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=274998&p=4214976#post4214976
I wanted to give a big shout out to Studio Kitbash. Over the past year or more he has very generously loaned me most of the original doner kit parts to mold and cast. His interest and obsession with the Y-Wing has helped to make my Green Leader project what it is today. Thank you!
Dave, thanks, and back atcha: without your obsession to superfine details (like the nacelle engine tie-downs, the fuselage head, the rear vectral control vanes, etc.), none of us would have been insanely inspired to think, "Hey, I could DO this!" and here we are over a year later broke and miserable and simultaneously SUPER EXCITED because we have Y-Wings in production. It is a magnificent obsession.
You've made one thing very clear: IT AIN'T AS EASY AS YOU MAKE IT LOOK. Here, for example, is my attempt at an ILM-style kit bash original nacelle tie-down, over which I far prefer your gorgeous 3D modeled version, simply because it's cleaner and PERFECTLY conforms to the compound curvature of the L'eggs pantyhose tops.
View attachment 717524
But in making this, I think I've concluded that there is no "missing nurnie" on this subassembly. I think what the ILMers did was take the three known pieces -- 1/9 Kettenkrad hook (Part #226P and Q), the Tamiya 1/35 Ausf. M/N barrel mount (Part #C8, which is used on the Type N barrel mount (75mm gun) not #A54 which is the same piece but has a shorter top-length cover, and is used on the Type M barrel mount with a 50mm barrel), and the Bandai 1/24 Bf-109 struts and they merged them into one piece by glueing the struts together where the scissor assembly on the piston makes a triangular shape, and then they simply filled the rest of the gapped area with putty. Then (and this is where I'm speculating) I think they took a piece of .250cm card stock (Plastruct, Evergreen) and cut a triangular shim that would bridge the gap between the scissors and the top of the Kettenkrad part, and then they just added two drops of super glue to the top, which may explain why one dot is larger than the other. The result is the "steel girder bridge" look that I previously speculated about on the 12 Parsec Detective Agency thread.
At any rate, per Dave's comment, I do have molds of most of the nurnies, so if you need any piece you can't currently find, I can probably send you one or more. As for this nacelle tie-down subassembly, I'm using DaveG's and Tony's right now, and still about a year or so away from learning/mastering the two-piece molding process so I can make duplicates of the ONE original I have and that cost me $300 to create. I just read in The Making of Star Wars that the total model-buying budget for ILM in 1975-6 was estimated at $2900, and with that they built EVERY ship in the movie! Would that we could find a time machine to get those prices again...
bwayne64
Master Member
If you've priced many of the kits he's talking about, they've increased in price much more than the inflation rate. Some of the kits that only cost 20 or 30 dollars back then, go for 300 to 600 now. So yea I wish I knew then what I know now. I would have begged, borrowed, or stole money to buy as many kits as would fit in my house. I'd make my parents move the car from the garage as well. Oh well, I would have bought Apple , Priceline and Google stock at their lows too, so enough of time travel dreaming, ;-)
Just the 15 or so Sealabs, 16 plus Bandai Panther Gs and the Bandai 1/15 stuff would probably put you north of 20K at today's prices (not to mention the years of searching). But we do have the advantage of resin, 3-D printers, and people like DaveG and all who have contribute to the SS community to help get things made. Some kits have become very expensive for sure, but there sure is no better time to be a SS builder than now I'd say.
bwayne64
Master Member
Re: The Y-Wing "Green Leader" Project - NOW OPEN SOURCE!
Man I would settle for just one Sealab and one Bandai Panther. But yes you are so right. Never been a better time for SS stuff. The best thing is all the info that has come out in the last 10 years . That is priceless !
Man I would settle for just one Sealab and one Bandai Panther. But yes you are so right. Never been a better time for SS stuff. The best thing is all the info that has come out in the last 10 years . That is priceless !
Now that my model is basically built and in paint I'm going through the Repository and doing some housekeeping. Moving things around, combining files into new Zips, etc. To start with all of the main fuselage and neck section 3D printing files have been combined into a single Zip file and placed in the 3D Printing folder. Same files as before.
belleauwood
Well-Known Member
Awesome Dave!
Thanks for doing that. My 3D printer is just waiting for me to get home and finish getting it together and dialed in and then I'll be finding the latest release of the files to start printing!
Ryan
Thanks for doing that. My 3D printer is just waiting for me to get home and finish getting it together and dialed in and then I'll be finding the latest release of the files to start printing!
Ryan
Carnet
Well-Known Member
Hi all! just joining the fray here. So excited about getting going on this build, but I have run into a hurdle. I have downloaded the main fuse .STL files. I don't have a printer of my own yet, so I use shapeways for my printing needs. I am pretty close to convincing my better half that we really do need a printer in our life...but until then.
I am running into a problem on shapeways, all but one of the fuse parts are coming up as "unprintable"...when I do the error check, it shows the reason to be a binding box issue. The object seems to be too small to print. The actual 3d object is super tiny in the binding box. Like, I thought the binding box render was empty, and then I noticed this tiny little spec and when I zoomed in, it was indeed the model. Perhaps the dimensions are off?
Has anyone else run into this?
I am running into a problem on shapeways, all but one of the fuse parts are coming up as "unprintable"...when I do the error check, it shows the reason to be a binding box issue. The object seems to be too small to print. The actual 3d object is super tiny in the binding box. Like, I thought the binding box render was empty, and then I noticed this tiny little spec and when I zoomed in, it was indeed the model. Perhaps the dimensions are off?
Has anyone else run into this?
Dave or others can chime in, but I know the dimensions, you're supposed to use for these at shapeways, should be in inches.
Everything I do and save is done in inches. I am a die hard Imperialist! The world will be a better place when it gives up on the metric system! Growing up they promised me two things by the time I was an adult... everyone would be on the metric system... and I'd have a flying car. No flying car? No millimeters! 
Unfortunately the default upload setting at Shapeways is metric so you need to be sure to select "inches" before uploading the file.
Unfortunately the default upload setting at Shapeways is metric so you need to be sure to select "inches" before uploading the file.
Jamie M
New Member
I had the same issue when this project started however being a single parent i didn't have the other half point of consideration.
But after pricing up the parts on shapeways i decided that purchasing my own 3-d printer was the way to go and i havent looked back. It's a steep learning curve but boy do you have fun. Not only have i printed off several Ywings for myself but have also helped a few other members along the way. Aaaaaannnnndd i accidentlyed a 1:12 Y wing for ****s N giggles so do it. Do it now !!
Carnet
Well-Known Member
So...yeah...I just bought a 3d printer.
Jamie, that picture is cool is so many ways! I love the one section printed in a different colored filament!
Prusa FTW! I have a steel Prusa I bought and put together myself for the same reasons you mentioned and that thing is one of my favorite tools ever by far. You're clearly getting your money's worth out of yours!
