Also, Magnoli has come out with their version of Newt's coat: http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/newt...ats-p-712.html
I think it looks quite nice, although the color seems a bit too blue and the back isn't pleated like it seems to be in the movie.
I'm oddly interested in his shoes, so I did some more digging for photos. Here's some that show some detail. I wonder if I could find a shoe maker to do a run of these...
Anyway, in the pics you can see that the boots are not actual WW2 combat boots, as Egon Spengler suspected. The design of the shoe, and the way the straps attach are very different.
I don't think it's cotton. I just saw it at the Arclight last night, it's very heavy fabric with a rough texture, and it doesn't wrinkle like cotton. Almost definitely a wool. There's not really a texture, but the diamond tweed weave is made from a dark teal and a forest green.
Also, the boots were custom. The shirt seems to be a jacquard woven linen in a light blue. The jacket and pants are both brown small weave Donegal tweed. The jacket is lighter in color than the pants and has yellow, blue, and white flecks. The pants have only white flecks. The vest is some kind of mustard and brown weave with a dark brown or black sort of hexagonal pattern running through it. (tiny hexes, like 1/16" tops.) It could be wool, or a silk/wool blend. He has a watch fob on a sewn leather strap.
The back of the Magnoli suit is the same length as the front it seems. In the film the back is longer.
Maybe I'm just remembering on the first page where another user said it was cotton. I found interviews with the designer saying it was fabric she had from a play long ago, which she dyed for this. I don't know how that works, since if you really zoom in, you can see that some threads are green and some are blue. Maybe it had different colors before and they picked up the dye differently.
I think the coat was originally white or off white and dyed petrol. Petrol is the name the costume designer used in the interview but she never said it was wool or cotton, but to me it looks like wool, but cotton would make sense for keeping the heat factor down under how studio lights. The vest, especially the front, looks like some kind of canvas material to me. The shirt doesn't really seem blueto me, but more of an off white and it has a pattern on it.
Trust me, I stared at the costume for a good half an hour, the shirt is light blue linen. There are some white threads in it, as linen is rarely a uniform color. The waistcoat has a similar weave to canvas, but it's closer to basket weave.
I don't know how she could have achieved the two very distinct different colors if she dyed it. The fibers look exactly the same, and I'm pretty sure it's wool. It's possible they could take the dye differently if they started as different colors, but neither of the colors is particularly dark and they're both pretty vibrant, not muddy. They don't look dyed at all.
The bottom of the coat is skirted, not pleated. It fans out below the waist, which causes it to drape into folds. It's gives the coat a flattering shape and also causes it to swing through the air if the actors spins.
Last edited by taruchu; Nov 27, 2016 at 10:58 AM.
There's a greener color in square patterns. The rest is blue (/dark peacock/petrol). It's a woven fabric, but I agree it looks much more like wool than cotton.
The fact that it's dyed comes from the costume designer herself, so I'm going to assume that's true.
I cannot wait to see your boots Magnoli!
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I haven't seen it in person, but here's the best picture I've found of the shirt online.
Here's a picture taken at the arclight in Hollywood and a link to a bunch more taken of all the costumes there. Same place Risu saw it, so maybe we can reach a common ground.
On the issue of the shirt, it really does look off white, I can see the blue hue in the pictures at a distance on the link but as soon as I look at the up close ones I just see white. Not as stark of a white as the shirt in the Graves costume but still white.
That said the pictures prove Risu right about the pants and jacket being different fabrics, so maybe trusting him on the shirt is a good idea. Doesn't matter, if you find a shirt with the pattern, you're already lucky.
When it comes to the waistcoat it reminds me of silk matka, because of the slubs and the weave, but it really could be any raw fabric or blend like Risu said. Although in the film and in these pictures with the changes it goes through with lighting it also reminds me a lot of velvet. I don't know what to make of it, I think this waistcoat is genuinely the weirdest piece of the costume when it comes to fabric, behind maybe only the coat.
And as for the coat, you can see particularly in this picture there are two different colours in the fabric. Since I was the one who first stated it was dyed here's my source where the costume designer says it was dyed herself. When I said cotton fabric, I have to admit it was conjecture on my part, although it makes sense because plays tend to use upholstery fabrics all the time and costume designers then continue to use them in film despite their weight and such being slightly impractical.
So if it was dyed then the two colours seem really odd but here's my thinking on that. This sort of diamond weave isn't uncommon, and it is usually made up of two colours. If this fabric started as a white or off white base with cream or tan threads making up the diamonds then the two colours make sense. The base fabric dyed petrol and the diamond threads which were more yellow to begin with became more green coloured.
Aside from that you're probably looking at a custom job to get anything close to the boots and fob because they just seem unique in general. And don't get me started on that bow tie that changes from purple to burgundy to navy throughout the bloody movie, let alone pictures.
Hope i'm some help, I'll personally be waiting to see if this costume carries over to other films before I throw a bunch of money at reproducing it accurately.
Still looks off white to me, in every photo. Here are some more from the exhibit. Haha ,just noticed you linked to this too! The blue tint of the shirt probably comes from the blue ceiling reflecting light down on to it.
Last edited by Egon Spengler; Nov 27, 2016 at 11:49 PM.
So here's the best image I can find to sort of illustrate the blue color of the shirt.
In direct light, it washes out almost completely, but in the ridges between threads, the shadows show up as blue. The raised jacquard weave is done in white thread, which pushes it further toward looking white from a distance.
In bright daylight, the suit jacket and pants look much different, but they look much more similar in lower light.
The bow tie came across to me as brown. I never questioned that color because it also looked brown in the movie.
So the coat is two colors, and like you said it's possible one of the colors was originally warmer/yellower and that stayed in and turned those fibers green. It's much more likely because the blue is a much more crisp color. Seems to me it could have been a white/tan they tried to dye blue and lucked into these colors. The other possibility is that the weaver used a different type of fiber for the warp threads because they needed them to stretch differently. The blue threads are the warp and the green are the weft. I picked up some yarn today and I'm going to have a go at weaving a swatch of this for fun.
The waistcoat looked a LOT like a cotton/linen basket weave fabric I've got. That has some slubs, but they're points, not line. The slubs do make this look a bit like silk, but it doesn't look as slubby up close. Some of the early pictures from far away almost make it look like dupioni, which it definitely isn't.