Disney Store Kylo Ren lightsaber mods

Howlrunner

Sr Member
I put some of these pics up in another thread, but as that thread is not actually about the Disney Store Kylo Ren saber then I thought I'd start a new thread.

Some pics of the DS KY saber:

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Looks pretty good to me - only real obvious structural inaccuracy is that the saber blade emitter opening is too wide.

Don't like the plastic blades and just want this as a display hilt, so removed the blades - main blade wasn't too bad, but side blades are impossible to remove after assembly, so had to carefully snap them off.

Inside the hilt - this is after I unplugged some bits I didn't want, cut the blade light strip down to only one LED, rearranged one or two thins, dremelled down some of plastic inside the hilt where the main blade goes in order to insert a section of pipe (seen at the top of the photo):

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Two of the battery wires snapped, so the red and blue line show where they are meant to attach to. I re-soldered them after this photo was taken.

And blade-less hilt re-assembled:

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I removed the 3-section moulded red "wire". I will fill the gap and use a real wire.

And to show that the lights (and sound) still work:

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Lots of sanding and hole filling up next....
 
I was curious how this looked inside. How do you plan on making the emitter thinner? I would think it could be sawed off and replaced with A smaller PVC one and then fill in the gaps with some bondo or milliput. So were the side blades glued into the emitters?

Also, is there a trick to getting the vibrating action to work? Mine doesnt seem to do it.
 
Why do you have only one LED in the grip?Mine has a lot of LEDs in the blade.It comes out like the FX-sabers and goes down the same way.:confused
 
He cut the rest off so he could remove the blade, and left one to retain at least some light coming from the emitter.
 
Any idea how you plan to fill the gaps around the battery compartment but still get to the batteries?
 
very cool pictures, are these able to be purchased online? there isnt a single disney store around me anymore :(
 
I was curious how this looked inside. How do you plan on making the emitter thinner? I would think it could be sawed off and replaced with A smaller PVC one and then fill in the gaps with some bondo or milliput. So were the side blades glued into the emitters?

Also, is there a trick to getting the vibrating action to work? Mine doesnt seem to do it.

I'm not going to make the emitter thinner. Yeah, it could be done, but it would still not be completely accurate and the hilt has a lot of other inaccuracies, but for a really cheap display prop I'm just going to leave it. I'm also just going to seal the batteries in - once they die I'm happy to just have it sit on the shelf - the lights and sound were just an added bonus as far as I'm concerned.

No idea on the vibrating - didn't know it could do that until after I had removed some pieces.

The red side blades have two square holes in each - they snap over inner sections that extend from the hilt. The side emitters then slot over the red blades and also snap into the square holes in the blade.
 
I'm not going to make the emitter thinner. Yeah, it could be done, but it would still not be completely accurate and the hilt has a lot of other inaccuracies, but for a really cheap display prop I'm just going to leave it. I'm also just going to seal the batteries in - once they die I'm happy to just have it sit on the shelf - the lights and sound were just an added bonus as far as I'm concerned.

No idea on the vibrating - didn't know it could do that until after I had removed some pieces.

The red side blades have two square holes in each - they snap over inner sections that extend from the hilt. The side emitters then slot over the red blades and also snap into the square holes in the blade.

I don't know if sealing the batteries in is a good idea. What if they start leaking battery acid later on?
 
Going full OCD on mine. Installed a louder speaker and moved it to the top, cut out the fat emitter area and plan to install a smaller one, and cut removed the exposed innards piece to replace it with a more recessed accurate one based on the pommel innards piece.
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Totally new to all of this. Has anyone tried adding a better looking blade to the Disney saber? I'm trying to make a longer blade and get mine to look a little bit more like the force FX saber, but I don't quite know how to go about that.
 
Totally new to all of this. Has anyone tried adding a better looking blade to the Disney saber? I'm trying to make a longer blade and get mine to look a little bit more like the force FX saber, but I don't quite know how to go about that.

I'm curious about this as well. It'd be great if a better LED could be installed in the emitter to light up a longer (removable) blade.
 
I don't know how the Disney blades are wired up, but from what I've seen, the leds come on in groups. If this is the case, you may be able to wire some extra leds in in series to each group so you can get a better coverage, but still maintain the FFX lightup sequence; however, it all depends on how the sound/lightboard ignites the blade. Obviously some diffusion would help, either some wrap from TCSS or that polystyrene packing wrap(? I think that's similar to the stuff FFX use) could do the trick. Otherwise yeah, swap it out with a hilt mounted led (which has already been done for the actual FFX: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgWFPYMoPqg).
 
I picked up one of the Disney store light sabers. I want to mod this as well and was wondering if anyone was attempting it.
Sorry, no offense but I can't just keep it as a display (pretty expensive for just a display) seems a bit of a waste of money in my opinion.
I was glad to see Dr Talyn is making an attempt at this. I'm going full OCD as well!

Since you mentioned it Dr Talyn...What speaker upgrade did you use? You also said that you moved the speaker to the front?

Saber Forge is 2 miles from my house, I'm going to see if I can work their 12w led and V4 blade into it. I'm also thinking of ways to make the pommel feel heavier and thicker than it is. I will post any progress very soon!
 
Im curious about using this soundboard in a custom build but I am a complete newbie to how to wire this. Does anyone have any tips on how to rewire a brighter LED into this set up? I imagine that the LED would have to have the same voltage as the stock ones so that it doesnt burn out the board right? Any advice would be appreciated. I really like the sound font on this and I was thinking I could have the two crossguard LEDs run as indicator lights on my custom saber design.
 
The Disney one is very close to the shape of the originals we´ve seen.But the blade is a lot shorter and "cheaper" as the Force Fx saber.(I have both)
I have an FX blade from my old Vader Ep.V MR saber in the basement.Would be nice if that would work with this saber.But it would only look cool when the sideblades also would have the same design...not the red plastic.
 
Well I mean for making a static hilt, the details and proportions are the closest of any product released. Close to getting mine finished.
 

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