Disney Store Kylo Ren lightsaber mods

Heat gun to loosen the glue and a little elbow grease pulling/twisting at varying angles got them off pretty easily for me. Took like 5 minutes. Some might be more difficult than others.

Yeah I think I got a difficult one. Even when I BROKE the sides off, I had to heat and cut the red blades to get them loose. The top came off pretty easily though.

This is a fun little project cuz at 40 bucks, I'm not that worried about trashing this thing... I need to learn electronics and paint, and looking what people have done here inspired me to just mess around with this.

Not sure I can achieve the level of some of the hilts on here, but I'm just looking for a placeholder til someone comes out with a hilt I'm willing to pay good money for.
 
So...since I don't know a lot about electronics, what's the difference between using 3w and 5w LED's? I'm going to buy some this week, and if the 5w are brighter, I'll get those...if they cause the hilt to burst into flames in my hand, then I obviously don't want those...[emoji41]
 
I bought 3 watt from china... They apparently are ON a heat sink (it's just alluminum backing)...

I'm gonna hook em up... if they burn out? oh well. I was originally going for static hilt anyway.
 
So it's kind of blowing my mind just how well standard-sized parts fit this thing. It's coming together really nicely, I think.

For the side emitters, I got the 7/8" OD Thin Walled tube. Note that I did not do anything fancy to the tube itself.

To make sure the tube slides on all the way, you have to Dremel off the little raised bits that held the original side-emitter tubes in place:

http://i.imgur.com/amvNCAO.jpg

I'll let the rest of the pictures speak for themselves:

http://i.imgur.com/LzBJzjf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/CyoxgcU.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/xjLr2Hy.jpg

It could probably stay on with friction by doing one wrap of electrical tape around the emitter part, but I'm going to try using countersunk machine screws to hold them in place and keep the screw flush with the tube.

Using some of the excess after I trimmed down the main blade, I made a little custom holder for the lens/LED that'll sit at the bottom of the blade sleeve:

http://i.imgur.com/KuYiNmw.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/f7vjxWY.jpg

How long should Kylo's blade be? Wondering if I could get the side blades and center all for the 40 inch piece... I'm guessing I would need 2 40 inch pieces.
 
How long should Kylo's blade be? Wondering if I could get the side blades and center all for the 40 inch piece... I'm guessing I would need 2 40 inch pieces.
For my main blade, I think I cut it to 34"? I was using the Black Series for reference. Keep in mind that the endcaps add about 1" if you're using them.

I wound up getting two 40" pieces because, as I mentioned earlier, you need to use 7/8" thickness tube for the side blades and those are about 4-5" long each. You'd have a really short main blade if you tried to cut it all from the same one.
 
For my main blade, I think I cut it to 34"? I was mainly using the Black Series for reference. Keep in mind that the endcaps add about 1" if you're using them.

I wound up getting two 40" pieces because, as I mentioned earlier, you need to use 7/8" thickness tube for the side blades and those are about 4-5" long each. You'd have a really short main blade if you tried to cut it all from the same one.

Thanks that's what I was figuring. I'm going to end up putting WAY more into this than I thought I would...

But all I've done so far is pull of the blades and MAN, this crappy 40 dollar saber looks closer to me than any of the other licensed stuff out right now.

It's going to be fun.
 
Thanks that's what I was figuring. I'm going to end up putting WAY more into this than I thought I would...

But all I've done so far is pull of the blades and MAN, this crappy 40 dollar saber looks closer to me than any of the other licensed stuff out right now.

It's going to be fun.

Right? It's kind of unreal how much better this looks than the Black Series (which I put up for sale as soon as I confirmed I was gonna be able to carry out this mod succesfully). I think in total I've only spent about $110 on this, which includes the base cost of the toy saber.

With a bit of paint, it just seems miles more accurate and nicer looking. Way better option for accuracy than buying a pricey 3D-Printed or CNC-machined hilt and then stuffing it with pricey electronics.

Happy modding! Post some pics and let us know how yours turns out.
 
So it's kind of blowing my mind just how well standard-sized parts fit this thing. It's coming together really nicely, I think.

For the side emitters, I got the 7/8" OD Thin Walled tube. Note that I did not do anything fancy to the tube itself.

To make sure the tube slides on all the way, you have to Dremel off the little raised bits that held the original side-emitter tubes in place:

http://i.imgur.com/amvNCAO.jpg

I'll let the rest of the pictures speak for themselves:

http://i.imgur.com/LzBJzjf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/CyoxgcU.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/xjLr2Hy.jpg

It could probably stay on with friction by doing one wrap of electrical tape around the emitter part, but I'm going to try using countersunk machine screws to hold them in place and keep the screw flush with the tube.

Using some of the excess after I trimmed down the main blade, I made a little custom holder for the lens/LED that'll sit at the bottom of the blade sleeve:

http://i.imgur.com/KuYiNmw.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/f7vjxWY.jpg

Does this tube have the same inner diameter as the white pvc?

I don't want to sit around and wait the month for the 7/8 tubing to come in, so I figure if I can just make the black blade holder already in it work, then I can get this altogether and drop in the blade when I get it...

But I don't want to get the blade, and then find it's too loose or tight inside.

Since you have 7/8 tubing AND the black blade plug, figure you could tell me if they fit. If so, I'll just use the black blade holder, and mod it for lens and such.

Make sense? I may be rambling.
 
I don't have the measurement right now for the rectangular opening, I used 5 patch cables to connect the LEDs. The blade sticks pretty well, I had to put vaseline on the rubber ring the first time to get it to fit, I took some swings with it but nothing "intense" definitely wouldn't recommend any actual dueling with it. I can easily mount the main blade and side blades now, after a couple times of attaching and removing, A twist lock sounds amazing, I was in a bit of rush hence the simple connection I went for. The hardest part was trying to decide how to actually connect the LEDs. If the future I want to attach new blades, so if you do create a twist lock that works I would be very interested to see it!

I really think the best way to go is have a single LED that can light your blade, then you don't have to worry about connections from the blade to hilt.

Thank you for your answer. Am I getting you right that you think making a connector is too much work? You suggested making a video; I'd love to see how you assembled it and how it looks inside the blade when you've attatched it.
 
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I had to scale it a couple of times to get it right. Can't remember exactly what I used though sorry. It would really depend on how you cut the existing piece out, I ended up shaving off more then I originally wanted to and had to add some filler pieces. I just rapidly prototyped a couple different versions with my 3d printer to get the right scale, then printed a cleaner version.

- - - Updated - - -

Thank you for your answer. Am I getting you right that you think making a connector is too much work? You suggested making a video; I'd love to see how you assembled it and how it looks inside the blade when you've attatched it.

To much work to create different type of connector? Well I think it would take effort and time yes, but definitely possible. I chose the route I went purely due to lack of time, I had about 2 weeks before I was wearing the costume. Yes video will be coming, I am moving across country in about a week, so it could be awhile before everything gets unpacked.
 
Ive got a question concerning collimator lenses (since I'm a saber newbie): I know it's said that an 8.7 degree lens is best, but would a 10-degree lens works just as well, or does the "magic number" have to be 8.7 degree?

Rob
 
To much work to create different type of connector? Well I think it would take effort and time yes, but definitely possible. I chose the route I went purely due to lack of time, I had about 2 weeks before I was wearing the costume. Yes video will be coming, I am moving across country in about a week, so it could be awhile before everything gets unpacked.

But is the connector you made working satisfactory? I'm thinking of printing that design and using it in my blade if it works well.
 
But is the connector you made working satisfactory? I'm thinking of printing that design and using it in my blade if it works well.

What would qualify as satisfactory? As I mentioned before I wouldn't recommend going crazy swinging around or dueling, but I swung mine around for some cosplay posing and it was fine.
 
What would qualify as satisfactory? As I mentioned before I wouldn't recommend going crazy swinging around or dueling, but I swung mine around for some cosplay posing and it was fine.

I'm not so worried about the blade coming off, I'm thinking more about good electrical connectivity and how easy it is to align the connector correctly inside the blade.
 
Does this tube have the same inner diameter as the white pvc?

I don't want to sit around and wait the month for the 7/8 tubing to come in, so I figure if I can just make the black blade holder already in it work, then I can get this altogether and drop in the blade when I get it...

But I don't want to get the blade, and then find it's too loose or tight inside.

Since you have 7/8 tubing AND the black blade plug, figure you could tell me if they fit. If so, I'll just use the black blade holder, and mod it for lens and such.

Make sense? I may be rambling.
Sorry for the delay, I've been out of town. I'm not entirely clear if you're asking whether the 1" or the 7/8" tubing fits the original interior blade holder.

The simple answer is that neither one fits well. I tried both and the 1" is slightly too thick for the halves to fit together, and the 7/8" is too thin so the tube floats around without adding more stuff to secure it.

This is why I'm using the PVC as a replacement holder.
 
Sorry for the delay, I've been out of town. I'm not entirely clear if you're asking whether the 1" or the 7/8" tubing fits the original interior blade holder.

The simple answer is that neither one fits well. I tried both and the 1" is slightly too thick for the halves to fit together, and the 7/8" is too thin so the tube floats around without adding more stuff to secure it.

This is why I'm using the PVC as a replacement holder.

That's exactly what I wanted to know. I won't be able to get the tubing for quite a while, but I'd like to keep on with the build.

I guess I need to find 7/8 inner diameter tubing...

I should ask if there's a standard size I should look for... outer diameter. Nothing I can find online lists inner diameter, and though the states has a lot of options, Canadian shops don't seem to..

I did find 1.5 outer diameter... could that be 7/8 inner? seens unlikely...
 
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Hey guys!
So I upgraded the Disney Store Saber. Here's a list of what I did, along with links to these parts. I also printed custom side flames, and a sleeve for the main blade.

This isn't complete. I'll be applying red tinted resin to the covers to both dye, and fuse them to the main blade as well. :)

I've attached some pics.

Here's a breakdown of the parts.

I followed Frank's breakdown to a tee.

1) 40" Red 1" Diameter Thin Walled Polycarbonate Tube
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-Thin-walled-Trans-Red-P…

2) 1" Red Bullet Tip
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Red-bullet-1-thin-walled-…

3) 3 x Red Luxeon Rebel LEDs
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Rebel-Star-P523.as…

4) 3 x Lens Holders
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/CreeRebel-Lens-Holder-P99…

5) 3 x 8.7 Degree Lens (Very important to get a good bright saber)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Collimator-Lens-87-deg-vi…
I also upgraded the speaker. I also modified the internal sleeve that accepts the blade, and it now can be removed with hidden set screws under the top ring. :) The side emitters fit with pressure.

https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn....=67dc7fac6a73afb31ac263211b9959bc&oe=574A3FB4

https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn....=367ad4e7a543038904e0142942d02a3b&oe=57520421

https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn....=632c99da823d32722b6a33a9f2b9a4c8&oe=5767CDA9

https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn....=8756424b76da0e3466a769ce881bc44b&oe=576B75B6

Hi , i´m following the same specs to modify my kylo saber , i´m waiting for the parts to arrive , in the mean time may i ask , it was possible to keep the rumble function in the saber once you attached the upgraded leds and lenses?
 
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