Question: "Scoring" ABS sheet/ adding a V-groove?

OdiWan72

OdiWan72

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hey all

I hope, that you model experts could give me some advice...

I am currently building a Hoth scanner from scratch. To create the box, I cut the basic shapes out of 2,5mm ABS sheet and score the "folding-lines" with an Xacto blade, adding kind of a "V"-shaped groove to the backside. Once I removed enough material (without cutting THROUGH), I fold the box.

Problem:
by doing this manually, I don´t get consitent results. Sometimes I score too deep and cut through the ABS sheet, sometimes I score not deep enough (resulting in the folds not being crisp), sometimes the folds crack. :eek:hwell

Is there a chance to cut the basic shapes of the box and its internal structures/ armor plating PLUS adding some kind of V-grooves to where I want to fold the box???
Lasercutting does not seem to be an option, maybe a CNC router!?

Many thanks in advance, Markus
 
Laspector said:
Perhaps you could get a matte cutter? The kind where the blade slides? Might give you more consistency.
Click to expand...


Already thought about this, but would it allow me to score the ABS (adding a V-phase) instead of just cleanly cutting? Can I adjust the depth of the blade?
Having the ABS sheet milled seems to be my only option....pricey!!! :(

Markus
 
How big are the pieces you are working? I'd almost be inclined to make an 'angle sanding jig' and use that to smooth the 'rough' cut edges, then glue the assembly. If scoring, then you can make a depth gauge from styrene sheet (actually, block that is clear would be best so you can see what you're doing.) Basically, you need a block of the necessary thickness with a vertical slot cut in it for the scriber blade to pass through, up to the 'hilt'. Make it so the blade is restrained to the correct angles & depth. Start your score line without the block, then follow up with the gauge installed.

That should give consistent depths. I also recommend using an actually engraving tool that is shaped to remove a kerf of material instead of 'plowing a furrow' in the ABS like a knife blade will tend to do. Your gauge may need a 'pocket' cut into the bottom in line with the blade to allow the kerf somewhere to go as your scoring the piece.

Hope this helps.
Regards, Robert
 
Instead of scoring the plastic and weakening it why not just heat it and pull it over a form for the shape.
You can make the buck out of a piece of wood.
 
I think I can picture what you're doing. You're trying to bevel the edges 45 degrees so you can fold them at 90. Why not cut separate pieces first then bevel them with a tool similar to Rafa's here and glue them together afterwards. I used a similar tool and was very happy with it as you can create any angle.
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=134914&page=8&highlight=rafa+tool

Or -- why not just cut separate pieces the normal way and glue them together without bevelling? With a little putty the seams should be invisible.
 
You need a modeler's scribe which removes material vs. just pushing it aside like a blade will do. It's easy to see how much you are removing with each swipe. A couple of practice pieces and you should know how many swipes it takes to get to the depth you want.

image.jpg
 
Re: Question: "Scoring" ABS sheet/ adding a V-groove?

rbeach84 said:
How big are the pieces you are working? I'd almost be inclined to make an 'angle sanding jig' and use that to smooth the 'rough' cut edges, then glue the assembly. If scoring, then you can make a depth gauge from styrene sheet (actually, block that is clear would be best so you can see what you're doing.) Basically, you need a block of the necessary thickness with a vertical slot cut in it for the scriber blade to pass through, up to the 'hilt'. Make it so the blade is restrained to the correct angles & depth. Start your score line without the block, then follow up with the gauge installed.

That should give consistent depths. I also recommend using an actually engraving tool that is shaped to remove a kerf of material instead of 'plowing a furrow' in the ABS like a knife blade will tend to do. Your gauge may need a 'pocket' cut into the bottom in line with the blade to allow the kerf somewhere to go as your scoring the piece.

Hope this helps.
Regards, Robert
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice.
The pieces I am working with are DIN A3 max. Setting up a sanding jig would be too much of an effort for just the one project...anyway nice idea!

- - - Updated - - -

division 6 said:
Instead of scoring the plastic and weakening it why not just heat it and pull it over a form for the shape.
You can make the buck out of a piece of wood.
Click to expand...

Working with 3mm ABS and want clean/ pretty "sharp" edges/ folds, so forming it over a buck is out of question I am afraid :(

Markus

- - - Updated - - -

crackerjazz said:
I think I can picture what you're doing. You're trying to bevel the edges 45 degrees so you can fold them at 90. Why not cut separate pieces first then bevel them with a tool similar to Rafa's here and glue them together afterwards. I used a similar tool and was very happy with it as you can create any angle.
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=134914&page=8&highlight=rafa+tool

Or -- why not just cut separate pieces the normal way and glue them together without bevelling? With a little putty the seams should be invisible.
Click to expand...

Since i don´t want to paint the scanner box, I don´t want to use separate pieces glued together....wouldn´t give me the needed results
 
JiminSTLouis said:
You need a modeler's scribe which removes material vs. just pushing it aside like a blade will do. It's easy to see how much you are removing with each swipe. A couple of practice pieces and you should know how many swipes it takes to get to the depth you want.

View attachment 520166
Click to expand...

THAT´s what I need, if I want to do it manually.
Problem...I couldn´t find this anywhere here in germany!?

Markus
 
If you stick (glue or screw) a piece of a stanley- or exacto-blade or a scalper perpendicular to a block of plastic, you'll have the same scriber but with the added advantage that the hight is now preset at the your desired level, and you can run the block along a guide such as a ruler.

I did that in the past and it worked well for me.If you want to make it more professional and longer lasting, you can use a piece of brass for your guide block and make the blade adjustable.

RKS.
 
RKS said:
If you stick (glue or screw) a piece of a stanley- or exacto-blade or a scalper perpendicular to a block of plastic, you'll have the same scriber but with the added advantage that the hight is now preset at the your desired level, and you can run the block along a guide such as a ruler.

I did that in the past and it worked well for me.If you want to make it more professional and longer lasting, you can use a piece of brass for your guide block and make the blade adjustable.

RKS.
Click to expand...

Got a pic?

Markus
 
Last edited:
RKS is suggesting a block with a side-mounted blade, which is clamped in place with a screw (or bolt) & perhaps a washer. You'd probably also want an offset pin (dowel) to brace the blade against the torque of the scoring so it doesn't shift while in use. Not hard to make since you can use a wood block, a wood screw and a nail (for the pin). Good idea, RKS!

BTW, Tamiya makes a scribing tool that works well. Do you have access to Tamiya paints & supplies?

Regards, Robert
 
Re: Question: "Scoring" ABS sheet/ adding a V-groove?

Depending on how daring you are you can v-groove on a table saw, using a straight toothed blade, set the blade to 45 degrees. This will cut a 90 degree v in the material. With thin materials it is important to attach it to a backer I like 1/2 inch plywood and attach it using double-sided masking tape. I use imperial measurements so I'm not 100% sure but 3mm is like 1/8 of an inch. I've made v-grooved boxes out of 1/8 inch acrylic using this method with good results.
 
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