Nils
Sr Member
Its a great looking piece once finished.
I have a few pics on my website www.nbg-studios.com , check it out!
I have a few pics on my website www.nbg-studios.com , check it out!
Randy Cooper Stardestroyer - Assembly description
- Thread starter cabour
- Start date
cabour
Sr Member
Back on this assembly description after a hiatus.
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The thickness of the plates of the upper triangle is also non-uniform.
Belt sander and plastic cards plates then come to the rescue ...
After bonding, they are reinforced with U-shaped aluminum profiles, and new slots are made in the ribs
After many dry tests to properly align the assembly (sanding, adding plastic card and the ribs) the two plates are bonded together: first, few drops of cyano for adjustment, then Pattex 100%
They are then just screwed on the model, not yet stuck, so I could get them off to light the model later.
The back shows a serious gap, filled with a resin bit.
Front, the raised plates are shifted between right and left sides. they will be adjusted later.
-------
The thickness of the plates of the upper triangle is also non-uniform.
Belt sander and plastic cards plates then come to the rescue ...
After bonding, they are reinforced with U-shaped aluminum profiles, and new slots are made in the ribs
After many dry tests to properly align the assembly (sanding, adding plastic card and the ribs) the two plates are bonded together: first, few drops of cyano for adjustment, then Pattex 100%
They are then just screwed on the model, not yet stuck, so I could get them off to light the model later.
The back shows a serious gap, filled with a resin bit.
Front, the raised plates are shifted between right and left sides. they will be adjusted later.
cabour
Sr Member
I'll take care of the adjustment of the neck, upper buildings and bridge.
It is first made dry, with sanding and adding wedges, maintained with pliers.
I add a PVC L-strip on the rear rib to have a better hold of the neck.
Then the two main parts of the main buildings.
A wooden wedge ensure keeping them on their front side.
Then I go to the higher buildings, where you have to trim the details.
Sometimes there are several millimeters of material to remove...
After numerous runs to the belt sander, thickness is good, but still a wrong angle.
which is resolved after a bath in hot water (which softened the resin and allows it to be reshaped)
And finally the front building. Here too, we must trim the details to insert the part
The angle here is also incorrect
And is adjusted after a run in hot water.
It is also necessary to add plastic strip on neck so the bridge is straight.
It is first made dry, with sanding and adding wedges, maintained with pliers.
I add a PVC L-strip on the rear rib to have a better hold of the neck.
Then the two main parts of the main buildings.
A wooden wedge ensure keeping them on their front side.
Then I go to the higher buildings, where you have to trim the details.
Sometimes there are several millimeters of material to remove...
After numerous runs to the belt sander, thickness is good, but still a wrong angle.
which is resolved after a bath in hot water (which softened the resin and allows it to be reshaped)
And finally the front building. Here too, we must trim the details to insert the part
The angle here is also incorrect
And is adjusted after a run in hot water.
It is also necessary to add plastic strip on neck so the bridge is straight.
cabour
Sr Member
The upper is reassemble with screws, which brings its new adjustments (mainly wedges).
Plates:
The neck.
The front side of main buildings
In an assembly with screws, as there is no assembly instructions (this is not an Ikea furniture), it is important to do a complete dry test to be sure not to end up with impossibilities.
Plates:
The neck.
The front side of main buildings
In an assembly with screws, as there is no assembly instructions (this is not an Ikea furniture), it is important to do a complete dry test to be sure not to end up with impossibilities.
dtssyst
Sr Member
As I have said elsewhere... Fantastic work so far! I can't wait to see more.
For those following this build, cabour is showing a great way to tackle this kit.
If interested I have a build/tutorial on our website that I will be resuming very very soon.
http://www.dnkhobbies.net/randy-cooper-star-destroyer-build-tutorial/
For those following this build, cabour is showing a great way to tackle this kit.
If interested I have a build/tutorial on our website that I will be resuming very very soon.
http://www.dnkhobbies.net/randy-cooper-star-destroyer-build-tutorial/
cabour
Sr Member
Thanks a lot dtssyst 
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Now on the back
I add wedges (resin remaining parts from the cleaning step) to improve the gluing surface and clog open gaps that appear.
This is then covered with black (spray can).
And the bottom part is installed
The parts (top/bottom) are not really symmetrical (right / left) , and upper and lower plates of the Stardestroyer don't even have the same angle themselves.
So, several runs on the belt sander were required to have a good fit.
---------
Now on the back
I add wedges (resin remaining parts from the cleaning step) to improve the gluing surface and clog open gaps that appear.
This is then covered with black (spray can).
And the bottom part is installed
The parts (top/bottom) are not really symmetrical (right / left) , and upper and lower plates of the Stardestroyer don't even have the same angle themselves.
So, several runs on the belt sander were required to have a good fit.
cabour
Sr Member
Thanks Chaim . Well, I don't think I will ever build a second :$
To give you inspiration to start your kit, don't forget that the main job on my assembly was the inner structure, which was due is to the fact my model needed to be secure for transports and exhibitions on conventions. If you intend to use the provided stand, and rarely move it, it can be built more easier.
Anyway, I really suggest a belt sander machine : this is easy to use, and accelerate by 100 times the sanding job with wood and resin. Even a first price in a DIY store do the job perfectly.
. Well, I don't think I will ever build a second :$ To give you inspiration to start your kit, don't forget that the main job on my assembly was the inner structure, which was due is to the fact my model needed to be secure for transports and exhibitions on conventions. If you intend to use the provided stand, and rarely move it, it can be built more easier.
Anyway, I really suggest a belt sander machine : this is easy to use, and accelerate by 100 times the sanding job with wood and resin. Even a first price in a DIY store do the job perfectly.
cabour
Sr Member
The hangar bay is built and covered with primer. The small frontal hangar is opened.
I thought there were some bright spots between the tiny ribs, but it was a mistake. The holes that I did for the optical fibers are then sealed with evergren plastic rod.
To bring electricity to the Blockade Runner or Tydirium Shuttle, I install a connector slot from an old computer.
The aluminum cross will be drilled to allow it to go through.
To light the hangar, boxes are built to spread the light through the openings at the top of the vertical side bay walls. The LED are prepared.
Same way to the front opening where the light box is made with evergreen grooved plates to data the illusion of walls of a shed (sorry no photo).
The assembly is reinforced with plastic strips, and with filler glue.
I thought there were some bright spots between the tiny ribs, but it was a mistake. The holes that I did for the optical fibers are then sealed with evergren plastic rod.
To bring electricity to the Blockade Runner or Tydirium Shuttle, I install a connector slot from an old computer.
The aluminum cross will be drilled to allow it to go through.
To light the hangar, boxes are built to spread the light through the openings at the top of the vertical side bay walls. The LED are prepared.
Same way to the front opening where the light box is made with evergreen grooved plates to data the illusion of walls of a shed (sorry no photo).
The assembly is reinforced with plastic strips, and with filler glue.
cabour
Sr Member
Thanks GF.
Good take, I missed this, it should have been set deeper.
But it is too late for mine, as it is already finished : https://www.facebook.com/olcabour.ha...32?pnref=story
It already made its first exhibition :https://www.facebook.com/olcabour.ha...99519080324550.
I post here the assembly log
Good take, I missed this, it should have been set deeper.
But it is too late for mine, as it is already finished : https://www.facebook.com/olcabour.ha...32?pnref=story
It already made its first exhibition :https://www.facebook.com/olcabour.ha...99519080324550.
I post here the assembly log
Last edited by a moderator:
cabour
Sr Member
The locations of the windows are marked with a fine felt pen then drilled (there are hundreds ones...)
In some places of the trenches, larger holes are made, because these areas will be more lighted by diffusion through a clear rod. On the original model, some bulb lights can be clealy seen.
Some holes for optical fibers are drilles fruitlessly, as they finish in aluminum U-strip (which cost me a few bits by the way...). They are then filled back with plastic filler.
The slots of the lateral electrical connectors are prepared. They will be used when the model will be hang from the side.
In some places of the trenches, larger holes are made, because these areas will be more lighted by diffusion through a clear rod. On the original model, some bulb lights can be clealy seen.
Some holes for optical fibers are drilles fruitlessly, as they finish in aluminum U-strip (which cost me a few bits by the way...). They are then filled back with plastic filler.
The slots of the lateral electrical connectors are prepared. They will be used when the model will be hang from the side.
Sym-Cha
Master Member
I'll just sit this tutorial out and check and double check those of others before even unpacking my kit fully ... though I already did notice some heavy warping going on on some plates of the main structure ... also what's the proper way to start with these resin kit parts . . . do you begin with rinsing them in soapy water as I may have read some where?
Chaim
Chaim
cabour
Sr Member
Absolutely, any resin kit must go first for a brushing in a soapy bath to remove any greasy residues.
For the warped parts, a bath in very hot water allow them to be reshaped.
I also used a heat gun for the very long parts, clamped on a wood board.
cabour
Sr Member
Many small gaps are filled here and there (trenches, overhead structures, neck), and few details repaired following the numerous manipulations and adjustments.
The (Tie) small bay is installed.
The seams of the large plates are reworked (sanding), the panels lines are re-engraved, and small details (missing after sanding) are redone.
Below, the screws are hide with plastic squares.
The (Tie) small bay is installed.
The seams of the large plates are reworked (sanding), the panels lines are re-engraved, and small details (missing after sanding) are redone.
Below, the screws are hide with plastic squares.
cabour
Sr Member
At the back of the neck, the waste ejector is set up, and the gaps filled.
The assembly of the three main engines is prepared with screws. They will be permanently installed once their lighting done.
In the trenches, lateral support posts covers are done with the remaining parts from the cuts. A brass loop is added to facilitate extraction using pliers.
The assembly of the three main engines is prepared with screws. They will be permanently installed once their lighting done.
In the trenches, lateral support posts covers are done with the remaining parts from the cuts. A brass loop is added to facilitate extraction using pliers.
cabour
Sr Member
To facilitate transport, the bridge will be removable.
To hold it in place while remaining removable, I made a sort of plug : I used wood stocks, glued on each side, and 4mm aluminum rods.
The aluminium rods are glued on the neck side. Everything is held in place during bonding.
If a metal plate is screwed onto the bridge wood part to prevent the rods to go too far and damaging the optical fiber and LED to come.
It finally slid a little too well, so I put some masking tape on the rods to slightly enlarge the diameter.
To hold it in place while remaining removable, I made a sort of plug : I used wood stocks, glued on each side, and 4mm aluminum rods.
The aluminium rods are glued on the neck side. Everything is held in place during bonding.
If a metal plate is screwed onto the bridge wood part to prevent the rods to go too far and damaging the optical fiber and LED to come.
It finally slid a little too well, so I put some masking tape on the rods to slightly enlarge the diameter.
