Pee-Wee's Big Adventure Clown

Cool! The more clowns the better, I say.

My second clown has that same wingnut base too. I was guessing someone just rigged that up, but apparently not. Does yours have wheels? Mine doesn't, didn't see any mounts or holes for them either (although I haven't looked close yet).

The base does have wheels. They are plastic.
 
I also saw this gorilla over the weekend. I have noticed it before, but I never gave it much thought. Knowing the history now, it is definitely from the same company.

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Make them an offer ;) Then if someone can find the chef we'll have the whole set. It's like a demented game of Pokemon.

I'm going to disassemble my second clown tonight and measure the sliding piece. I'll have my new jumbo milling machine here soon, planning to use that to shape it (looks like the original was a cast).
 
Here are some photos of my second clown torn down. Some minor differences from my first clown are .. suit is buttoned in the back (vs Velcro), fingers have wire loops for positioning (vs stuffing), arm/leg foam looks like pipe insulation (vs carpet padding), less wood support in the pelvis, rod for vertical push movement (vs twisted bar). Haven't looked at the base yet.

Biggest difference is how the hat is held upright by a wire that is attached to the wood support inside the head (a small wood block holds the wire, and is stapled through the head to the wood inside). This is a terrible design .. if the hat is bent or caught or pushed around, you risk splitting the whole head open (mine looks like it got pushed over, so there is some cracking I need to fill). My first clown is slightly newer, and holds the hat onto the hair with a wire loop.

Next is removing the hair and taking off the shoes. Then I'll probably switch back to mechanicals since I have a good reference again.

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Looks to be largely the same construction and materials as my first and second clown. The only difference between my first and second clown appears to be the horizontal rod that the left arm attaches to - the rod is bent on my first clown, as is the flat bar that is welded to it. Also, my second clown has a piece of wood that juts out from the shoulder that shields the mechanism of the left arm.

The hat attachment method is horrible. I was thinking of using a small eyebolt on my resin head to have a place to attach the hat to.
 
Yep, I pretty much destroyed that little wooden shoulder piece getting the staples out. Do the wheels look like the plastic wheels on my first clown (earlier in the thread)? Or if you can post a photo I'm curious what kind they are.

Also - What brand of filler did you use for the cracks in your head? I was going to shop for some after work today .. I suspect a plastic putty would be best, but I'm open to suggestions. Any other tips from when you patched your head up would also be good. I'm going to take the hair off and split the head open before I do mine, so should have good access to both sides for filling/sanding.

Since yours was molded from the outside, did you sand the glitter nose before it was molded? Or did you have to just touch up each casting to smooth it out?
 
Yep, I pretty much destroyed that little wooden shoulder piece getting the staples out. Do the wheels look like the plastic wheels on my first clown (earlier in the thread)? Or if you can post a photo I'm curious what kind they are.

Also - What brand of filler did you use for the cracks in your head? I was going to shop for some after work today .. I suspect a plastic putty would be best, but I'm open to suggestions. Any other tips from when you patched your head up would also be good. I'm going to take the hair off and split the head open before I do mine, so should have good access to both sides for filling/sanding.

Since yours was molded from the outside, did you sand the glitter nose before it was molded? Or did you have to just touch up each casting to smooth it out?

The wheels are the same as on the Volo Museum clown (below). I have the feeling they simply went with what was available at the cheapest price.

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I used J-B Weld plastic putty. It's a little difficult to sand, but it adheres pretty well and sets up solidly. As for application, it really depends on what you are trying to save. If you're wanting a mold of the inside, then you may have to live with blemishes on the outside surface of the clown head. Otherwise, you live with blemishes on the inside. In my case, I had to use the expanding foam to give the head added strength. The repairs alone would not have been enough. You may run into the same issue once you get into it.

The original head was splash molded and then a master head was created from the splash mold. All the imperfections from the original were corrected on the master. So, the impressions left from the glitter were simply sanded smooth on the master. A mold was then made from the master and that's what all the resin castings come from.

It would be nice to be able to use the head itself as the mold and simply create bucks directly, but the heads are so fragile that I would be afraid of destroying the original. I guess as long as the bucks come out nicely, the head could be sacrificed and then you just make a new one.
 
Gotcha, the JB Weld putty was indeed what I was looking at earlier. I don't really care what the outside looks like, just want to patch it up so I can mold from the inside.

Out of curiosity, what did you search on to find a place that would mold it for you? I'm going to try to do this Ultracal/Hydrostone molding myself, although I'm still curious about pricing metal molds.
 
When I was looking at molding the head, I looked for special effects and prop companies. They are really the experts when it comes to making molds by application of silicones, rubbers, etc. But if you're looking to price metal molds, that's a different story. You will likely need to find a 3D scanning service and then a company that specializes in vacuum form aluminum molds. www.borkemold.com looks promising.
 
According to the patent number on my clown's wheels, it was assigned to Circle Engineering Co. I believe that it is now called Circle Caster Engineering Co. They do have the same style wheel but in a larger diameter. They also have the plain black wheel with all proper dimensions as found on DB's first clown.
 
I'm going to have to revise my earlier comment about the wheels being plastic. The tread is actually hard rubber and the wheels are coated in a plastic, but they definitely have a metal core.
 
Interesting. I see that company was founded in 1969, perhaps they supplied wheels on all the models (or not). I'll check if my third clown's wheels have any IDs when it arrives (shipping out probably tomorrow).
 
Another clown shipment arrived today - hurrah! These guys crated it up like a fortress, couldn't even get it in the garage.

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Looks fantastic, suit is vinyl but a thinner more crinkly kind. Hair is similar to the other clowns, but longer and glued down in those more pointy clumps. The neck is longer and skinnier, but the head looks the same. Completely stitched up suit, they must have ripped open the back seam to service these things.

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Wheels have a star-shaped metal hubcap. I always figured they must have a shape like that since the movie wheels show a 90 degree reflection. Power outlet on the back of the base.

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I'll post some more various close ups later (wish there was a way to post videos easily).

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You're really racking them up DB, which one is this now?, I lost count, is this the live auctioneers?, or another, are you still planning on finishing the scratch built one, since you got all these original ones now?, either way it's a nice collection, pretty soon you'll have to put up a "Big Top" to store 'em all!
 
The clown looks great! I always thought the neck on the PWBA and Night of the Comet clowns was skinnier. Do you think they made another mold? That seems odd to me, considering the expense. Maybe they just modified the mold to accommodate a smaller size sheet of styrene?
 
This is the third one, which I stumbled on by searching classifieds. My plan is to finish the scratch built one (I just got a new milling machine to finish some of the metal part machining - plus I just like machining as a hobby) and make that one movie accurate. I'll probably restore my first two clowns and sell them to make some room.

Never got a response from Mr Malcolm on Google Plus, although with that goofy system it's hard to tell if your messages are going anywhere. I might try just writing on his blog next.

Some other notes about the clown I forgot to post earlier ..
- The gloves are the slick/shiny vinyl like my second clown.
- Some stitches came out under the waving arm that I need to repair - from peeking in, all I see is tan foam wrapped around the torso and legs (no plastic barrel torso). I think between that and the skinnier/longer neck, it makes these older clowns look smaller overall.
- The suit buttons are stuffed and just sewn on to the front.
- Not sure yet how the hat is attached or kept upright (I made sure these shippers knew not to put any pressure on it just in case).
- Not sure what the indentations are on each side of the base of the neck. My other clowns have this (and I think I see it in PWF's heads too), although they are smaller on this clown. I think you can see this on both of the movie clowns too if you look closely (esp. the Night of the Comet clown closeup). They look like screw holes, but there's nothing in them. Hmm?

PWF - I agree it seems strange to have two identical heads with different necks (I'm going to measure to see if the heads really are the same size, I was just eyeballing it). My only guess is if Marshal Moody really did takeover making these, perhaps they were the ones who fattened up the clown and adjusted the suit/neck/base/etc.
 
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A few more photos - wheel from an off-center angle (they have four raised points, and a sort of ribbing pressed between them - might have to fabricate these, doubtful of finding anymore), hair/hat from the back (you can see the clumps of hair better - lends itself to being spiked up like they used to), and those neck indentations.

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Not many updates here, just waiting on my mill vise to arrive. Planning to mill and drill the sliding piece this weekend, then start assembling the upper body.

On a side note, this newest (oldest) clown I just got has much more detail in the shoes than my other clowns (which comparatively look like second or third generation copies). Laces and trim are sharp and clear. Dilemma since I was going to mold my second clown's shoes. Might be easy to sculpt instead, will stew on it.

Pre-Halloween fun - lights on ..

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Lights off ..

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On a side note, this newest (oldest) clown I just got has much more detail in the shoes than my other clowns (which comparatively look like second or third generation copies). Laces and trim are sharp and clear. Dilemma since I was going to mold my second clown's shoes. Might be easy to sculpt instead, will stew on it.

I thought the shoes looked as if they had more detail! I almost commented on it, but it didn't make any sense as to why. My first clown's head also appears to have more detail than the second one's, but I always thought I was just imagining it. I'm guessing all the vacuum form molds were actually a resin with an aluminum filler. Over time, they must have degraded, and they simply made new molds from a set of pulls.

Depending on the material used for the buck, you could also make one from a set of shoes and then carve away material to add definition.
 
Just looked at my clowns closer. They also have the different shoes. The one with less definition actually has a different style top.

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