Re: FALCON 32" hunk of junk build

Yeah great book, it states the big model is 4ft a few times. As I said earlier subtle is the key when it comes to do the splatters, if you choose to that is.! ;-)
We are all promised in magazine & Steves video many more reference photographs of the studio Falcon to come...

I think, and I may be wrong, that they always called the 5' version the 4 footer and the 32" version the 2 footer as that was the size of their hulls minus the mandibles. In this cool pic of the 32" on a stick it has a box that says 2 foot parts.


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On the forum Deago gives a link for some "High Res" pics we have all probably collected on our own.

I don't think we are getting any actual pics.

Remember, I love this thing and will die grateful to Deago for taking this on, our ships were supposed to come with all the basic painting done and we could just add details if we wanted and that obviously did not happen.

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BTW could you give us a pic of your model together so far??

I laid my hull on the four large bolts as landing gear and then put in the living area in, set the cockpit and tube and set the top on it and it looks awesome but unpainted.

Would love to see yours ???
 
I've the underside way back to view...Here's my upper to issue 74 so far, still lots of pipes & greebies to be added as well as weathering parts later ... the great thing is this old birds she's got sections to use as grid references etc...the grills & engine section are loose till later. I've got the cockpit wrapped up so didn't put it on for this viewing. My 75-78 should be coming anyday now so l can continue the mandibles/round pits etc...
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Dude that looks SOOO AWESOME! I am planning to use your techniques with oils to paint mine also and this has got me so excited!

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Fantastic work as always mate. I'm correct in assuming that you've not used an airbrush during this build right? , just wondering what technique you're using to create the blurred/sharp edges re; the weathering streaks in the post above ? Please don't say it's just a steady hand ( cause if that's the case then I'll be truly stuffed! LOL!!!...cheers Ged
 
Hi, no airbrush..... Streaks & lines were done with TAMIYA tape for the masking & weathering kits for the straight lines....;-).
The black lamp oil weathering guides on page 7 I think, that's just for the plating canvas weathering.
 
Can you make a video of your technique?

Second that. It would really help.

I am trying your techniques but mine is just not coming out nearly as good.

Also if you did all the panel colors with a brush how did you make them look so smooth, like airbrushing, panel shading as well????


Sorry to bug you but you have simply the best Falcon I have ever seen. This includes some amazing Master Replicas Re-paints I have seen. They were awesome but yours is the best I have ever seen.



Thanks
 
I know I don't have a Falcon painted like Darkview to show yet but maybe I can shed some light. Darkview feel free to correct any of this.

I tested out his technique and I discovered two things. First is that you have to make sure you're using the quick dry oils. If you're not it just won't rub and smooth out the way you want.

Second make sure your surface is quite smooth and clean. From what I can tell he is doing this directly on the unpainted plastic as it comes from the factory. If your surface has been painted and isn't fairly smooth the oils won't spread well and you won't get that nice finish that he's getting. That being said I did a test panel and rubbed oil directly onto Tamiya Insignia White and it worked quite well.

I also tested hand painting the panels and I found that if I used the paint mixed with a bit of thinner and then painted multiple layers you can get it to look pretty smooth without any brush strokes visible.

Here is a image of the panel I tested on using this technique.
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Second that. It would really help.

I am trying your techniques but mine is just not coming out nearly as good.

Also if you did all the panel colors with a brush how did you make them look so smooth, like airbrushing, panel shading as well????


Sorry to bug you but you have simply the best Falcon I have ever seen. This includes some amazing Master Replicas Re-paints I have seen. They were awesome but yours is the best I have ever seen.



Thanks

Thanks ThomasBond, lm off work tomorrow so will see about showing you the grey panel shading, key things to have for that is the Tamiya masking tape, & Tamiya weather kits. Also very important are the brushes I'm mentioned early on in this thread. Get a set of girls make-up brushes from the £ shops they work great and wilkinsons sell a pack of Reeves brushes under a fiver that are great for smooth painting and weathering.

The colour (red,grey) panels are masked off and using Humbrol Matt red or grey,(small tin pots) I use a big brush using even strokes. Have a look through the thread tho... I'll put up some pictures tomorrow to help and page refs here that show relevance.

as for video, erhhh! I'll look into setting up something at a later date, I've run out of test panels so maybe when l get my new delivery & a camera tripod etc ;-).

ps. SirCharles77s right about the application of the black oils direct on to the model plastic...no prime or anything.

Heres my main junk.....;-)
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Re: FALCON 32" hunk of junk build

This shot is stunning
imagejpeg


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I've the underside way back to view...Here's my upper to issue 74 so far, still lots of pipes & greebies to be added as well as weathering parts later ... the great thing is this old birds she's got sections to use as grid references etc...the grills & engine section are loose till later. I've got the cockpit wrapped up so didn't put it on for this viewing. My 75-78 should be coming anyday now so l can continue the mandibles/round pits etc...
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/Darkview/IMG_7015.jpg
. Stunning
 
Thank you, lm looking forward by next March or so to do a great shoot of the old bird fully finished...I've just received my fix of issues 75-78, spent my morning studying the parts & mag.
 
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STARBOARD MANDIBLE
Here's my recess pits for the starboard Upper/lower mandible (Falcon cockpit side). All l did was painted the pits oil lamp black totally ...left for 10 mins then with a big brush dipped in white spirit soaked and wiped with paper towels, repeated then left to dry and if l didn't like it added more thinners till l was happy. Also if you like.. Use a powerful hairdryer on cold blow to dry the wells quicker... I'll add rusts after studying... This is the one method that's more difficult than the spraying but l wanted to keep it consistent with my techniques to date.
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That's awesome! Just last night I was using your technique on one of my sidewalls and realised that the details were too small for me to get a cloth into the crevices so I figured out that I could use a flat brush with spirits on it to "wash" it basically and draw the oils out a little bit at a time to lighten it in places. Basically what you did with your recesses! Great minds right?

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Nice one, it's kind of gives a natural engine wear n tear... how the thinner/white spirit spreads, then when dry l sometimes dip cotton buds slightly in the spirit and can wipe away on the pipes etc to highlight. You can see if you shop around you can get point tipped cotton buds, even Black!

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TIP: if you get a shine from the thinners when dry, use those small cheap make up brushes I've mentioned and tamiya weathering 'Oil Stain' from kit D.
 
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I've added the pits after weathering the starboard up n' lower mandibles, that's because I didn't want any leaking thinner to spread there, l know l could have covered them with tissue etc but with the greebies being delicate in parts of various engine wells didn't want to chance a break even tho glued well. My initial 1st stage weathering with oils takes abrasive rubbing with paper towels so it was easier to add pits after.
see P:7 quarter (steps 1-8) way down for this technique, http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=240711&page=7
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Below: pits then screwed in...
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