Agreed. I've just received this by Hermes literally....so will let anyone know if interested if it works on my test part as a nice Matt fix...
will test it against a coffee spill for example!!!!
2abe990c4d2ebf638a83be516ddf22d5_zpsbj38fty9.jpg
 
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Well left it for 2hrs after sealing it with the Matt spray above....& lm impressed!!! I had to spray at leased 8" away.
1. Sprayed (Recommended 24hrs dry time).
2. Coffee dripped on it for 5mins
3. NICE ONE! Wiped off with no smudges to the under use of TAMIYA weathering kits, black oils, pencils, pens and enamel/thinners or the horrid splats ;-).
9e00f04d9fa4179ae1bbe7e8c0d6a844_zpsdifwsvgq.jpg

All done in case of a bad accident, which we really don't want!!! I'm going to do more tests at some point etc..
 
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Cool work Darkview, ...was wondering if the Laquer/fixer you used would have a substitute brand here in oz?. I can see it being very handy indeed in so far as protecting what is going to be a many layered ( medium wise ) dressed up lady. Also, you mentioned in an earlier post that you'd be explaining your ' earlier ' chipping ( tortilla chips really!? Lol ) techniques, any chance you'll be sharing soon? Cheers Ged. ; )
 
Ain't a clue what you may have down in the wonderful land of OZ. But it's available worldwide I guess!? I randomly picked it on the web.
The key word in my search for such a product to fix my technique for the FALCON was ... 'Matt' in clear lacquer spray products!.

My off the wall tortillas weathering trick I'll put up in another thread..(not used here on this build). But it's on my steampunk thread which is on another great site at
http://www.eagletransporter.com/forum/showthread.php?t=153500
 
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I ended up going with some really subtle splatters, I like the complexity they add to the overall weathering, its almost like when you paint subtle freckles on people they start to look much more realistic. I ended using a really thinned out tamiya smoke for mine since that color if pretty translucent in the first place I felt it would blend in the best, I also took some rust colored wash and thinned that down a bit as well, as I was applying it I gradually added more color to my Smoke color wash until I got it about as opaque as I wanted it, varying the paints opacity really helped keep it random and less contrived, when you stand back at a regular viewing distance you cant even see it.

The top has a lot more of this effect than the bottom does so I will have to cross that bridge when I get to it, but I feel I will want to keep it subtle like this.

Splatter01.jpgSplatter02.jpgSplatter04.jpgsplatter04.jpg



Here is a before and after shot i had

Splatter_Compare01.jpg
 
The splattering you did above looks really good IMO, it feel just like what I see on the top of the studio model, i have felt that enamel paint might look better than acrylics for the splatter just because of how the paint looks thinned, something about the enamel thinner just looks right, this certainly affirms that for me, gonna have to get some and try it out...
 
Darkview, after you applied the matt finish, what does the specular look like on your surface? Did you lose all of the detail you got from the weathering you did? That's what I found and I am not too happy with it. I liked that I could view my model at an angle and see the streaks being shinier because of the oil and some of the areas being dull from the pastels, etc. Once I put on a matte finish it made it all even looking.
 
It's got an even Matt finish-Anti-reflective matte finish. trouble is a spray lacquer by definition gives a even protective coating but I've lost none of the details inc pencil marks..I'm going to do a bigger section test at some point... And Copy any details l like that are important on the big bird that l want so stay exact..the tone is a faction darker but that may be to spraying a tad close 2nd time or me applying 2 layers in my test piece...Anyhows will show it later with the added pencil lines etc
 
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Do you mean the splats!!? If so it a mix of enamel Matt yellow 15, & Matt 85 brownish mixed in a small pot with 75% white spirit.
If you mean the under/over hull rust it's been Tamiya weathering powder kits...C & B. (Helps as ref points that I will be adding wet thinner rusts to them areas like what you find on any studio 32" and Ktaylors excellent work.
 
I received after work tonight my book Sculpting A Galaxy that Steve Dymszo talks about in his amusing videos for reference use, beautiful book.... As far as the splats go - the book shows photographs that are heavily splat from 'A New Hope' & they may well have been printed darker never mind taken from a 70s camera as ref... The main gatefold is 'Empire Strikes Back' & although a tad grainy show little splatting, wouldn't be surprised if it had a
respray of sorts after the 1st movie ... But that's if they had a 32" in ANH!!!? so that's how I'm going... Fine subtle splats!! other photos of the Falcon say they are from both movies here & there. (Btw books says the big studio Falcon is a 4ft!).

As we all know striking a happy medium is the only way really. There's no such thing as an exact reproduction of the Falcon so lm happy to try my best shot!.
3d655ad4062ef5d8e87df3ced6dbec40_zps1vcmhrq2.jpg
 
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I recreated this part as it was a spare & used just the same techniques, oil, Tamiya weather kits, pencils etc. Then sprayed it with a good covering of my clear Matt Lacquer and the differences are minimal, only the white brushed TAMIYA fade on the red patch was lost a bit, easy to go over... So happy to seal my bird at the last stop ;-) Any other differences you can spot are just light as it was a bit later when l took the picture...
BEFORE:
3e76b0514a8ded752fbaed8e1146322d_zps7abtlspi.jpg

AFTER:
1bfcb59006965ad55f244933b185200f_zpstjdlkljm.jpg


And with the splats....one with,one without.
6635314bd7705b5c4894162b5b344f8e_zpszdat8rhz.jpg
 
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G'day DARKVIEW, as always, brilliant work mate. Went on eBay and Amazon re ' hycote 'matt' lacquer ' unfortunately none of those sites will ship to oz. Are you familiar with Plastic-Kote Clear Sealer ' Matt '?, that's available over here at Masters ( home improvement store i). I realise I'll have to give it a test myself, but if anyone has info on this stuff re; protection of weathered panels without too much ' alteration ' occurring - any help/advice appreciated. One other question ( for this post anyway! ), will followers of this post/thread/sites, still be able to access them when your builds come to an end? Reason being, as you know, we're fairly far behind re; launch of this kit here in oz, and I'm asking cause this forum and others are new to me. Would hate not being able to access experienced builders ( re; techniques) , as well as hindsight (trial and error-wise ) , when we eventually ' catch-up ), LOL!!! Any help with these matters appreciated. Cheers . Ged:)
 
The threads/mine will stay up as long as RPF do... Plus any queries or help I'd always be willing long after lve done. (that's if it's wanted). Anyway about the lacquer, l think as long as it has MATT in the title it should be fine, just do a test and never spray too close!!
 
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Thanks. Some peace of mind at least ( re; help and advice ). Don't really know why I'm caring so much to ( trying ), get this build ' just right '. Guess I'll put it done to knowing I can do better with age LOL!! :)
 
Re: FALCON 32" hunk of junk build

I just got my Sculpting a Galaxy book. That's one I have wanted for quite a while. Anyway there is a close up shot of the 5' model and like the other pics I have seen the splatter just looks not right. Next page shows a shot a bit farther away of the 32" and you can't see the splatter and it looks just right.

I remember a few years ago Steve Dyzmo (Don't know if I am spelling that right) painted a Master Replicas Falcon with all the detail, signatures, splatter, etc. It looked horrible IMO. He explained it looks so different because all the detail was there that had to be overdone so some would show under the lights for filming. Just like Adam Savage was saying the Expensive Prop Shop Kylo Ren helmet is not as heavily weathered as the real prop as they wanted the prop replica to look like it did on screen and not the actual much heavier weathered real prop.



No splatter for me.


Awesome work here as always.
 
Yeah great book, it states the big model is 4ft a few times. As I said earlier subtle is the key when it comes to do the splatters, if you choose to that is.! ;-)
We are all promised in magazine & Steves video many more reference photographs of the studio Falcon to come...
 

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