Immortan Joe costume from Mad Max, Fury Road

After a crazy weekend, I finally had a chance to test my method out. Here are the results. Not the best, but for working on a budget, this is good enough for me. If I wanted to make it really detailed, I could still print and mold the side muscles. Spent Saturday finishing the prints, Sunday welding, smoothing, and filling any gaps in. Took three hours tonight and finally molded it in place.

IMG_20150817_231823.jpgIMG_20150817_231834.jpgPSX_20150817_232350.jpg
 
Really, really nice! This thread proves truly that there is more than one way to skin a cat!


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Tried using the transparent worbla tonight with acceptable results. I used a smaller craft heat gun usually used for stamping I think, which resulted in the worbla not heating up as fast and made for a longer, but pretty smooth process of forming it over the buck.

I did the back first, the way others suggested, into the negative instead of over the positive. I felt like it was not that bad, so I went for it and tried on the positive for the front.

Here is a pic.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439875458.757365.jpg

With my bling

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439875233.284614.jpg



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ahoudini said:
At the risk of inviting transparent calf and ankle humor, allow me to present quick and easy vambraces:

View attachment 516173


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Click to expand...

Those look great! If you don't mind me asking, where did you find those legs? I ordered a pair of the cheaper lady legs, which should be here by the weekend, but I'm not sure what quality the plastic is going to be, I might not be happy with them. Eriksmask shared a link to some legs that look pretty much identical to yours, but they now list for 820 bucks on ebay, instead of 20 bucks, like they did originally. I actually messaged the seller and politely asked if the legs were meant to be listed at that price, or if it was a typo. They responded back with "they sold out, so we increased the price". I messaged him again and asked, "but an 800 dollar increase?" and he again responded, this time simply with "supply and demand." -__-

Anywho, I was also curious about your shoulder pauldrons. You mentioned you cut them too small, but from what I can tell, looking at the lines you sketched out on the buns, it looks like you cut them as big as you could. Do you think those plastic buns are going to be big enough to carve out two decently sized pauldrons?
 
The legs I got of eBay from a mannequin supply in NJ. I think I could have cut the pauldrons enough larger from the butt mannequin, had I measured the bottle caps first.


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ahoudini said:
The legs I got of eBay from a mannequin supply in NJ. I think I could have cut the pauldrons enough larger from the butt mannequin, had I measured the bottle caps first.


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Click to expand...

thanks! I wasn't able to find anything on eBay other than the 800+ dollar listing, but I did find what seems to be the same mannequin leg on amazon (just in case the lady legs don't work out.) here's the link if anyone else is curious/interested: http://amzn.to/1J1kwEo
 
In my complete impatience/shopping online at work - am going to have a second cocktail strainer sent to me, it won't be here from China for a bit, but let me know if anyone wants the second one and I'll post it out. :)
 
IF you guys can't find mannequin legs, you can just heat form PETG over a 4in piece of pvc pipe to give you a nice curve. Thats how I did my upper arm parts. It would probably work decently for the lower arm parts a bit too.
 
Yes, from what I understand the .040 thick stuff is apparently fairly easy to form with a standard heat gun. I'll be ordering some PETG this weekend and will soon find how manageable it is for myself!
 
If I'm going to have more luck with that than trying out the transparent worbla - definitely interested in knowing. Did order a cheap plastic mannequin front to make at least the chest armour off of today - will tackle the other bits when it comes to it.
 
aeonpulse said:
Yes, from what I understand the .040 thick stuff is apparently fairly easy to form with a standard heat gun. I'll be ordering some PETG this weekend and will soon find how manageable it is for myself!
Click to expand...

The .040 is somewhat easy to hand form over a mold. Plus it costs 1/5th as much as the Worbla.
 
Hamsterstyle said:
The .040 is somewhat easy to hand form over a mold. Plus it costs 1/5th as much as the Worbla.
Click to expand...

I damn near had the .060 stuff working, but it's the complex curves that make it impossible. As soon as I get to the curve up over the shoulders or down by the gutplate I start developing folds in the plastic because I can't heat it broadly enough.
 
Yeah, complex curves I cant really get to work well. If you are curving it in one direction, easy. But bubble/domes, not so easy by hand. I just heat and slowly fold it over. Really a vacuform table is the way to go. But I don't have the space to build a full sized one.
 
Hamsterstyle said:
Yeah, complex curves I cant really get to work well. If you are curving it in one direction, easy. But bubble/domes, not so easy by hand. I just heat and slowly fold it over. Really a vacuform table is the way to go. But I don't have the space to build a full sized one.
Click to expand...

Me neither. I tried making a 24x24 one, but truthfully that's not quite big enough to do the torso reliably. I'd need a huge machine, and while I want to one day have one that can do this, my little workshop is already cramped enough.
 
Hamsterstyle said:
The .040 is somewhat easy to hand form over a mold. Plus it costs 1/5th as much as the Worbla.
Click to expand...

Going with worbla is the biggest regret I have with this costume. Joe is the most complicated costume I've worked on, so I knew I'd learn a lot and figure out what to avoid in the future. Transparart/Worbla is the biggest one.
 
well damn, I really appreciate everyone's input and info about their experiences working with the transparent worbla. I was very, very close to pulling the trigger and ordering a big sheet of the stuff, which would have set me back 100 bucks. I'm excited about getting my hands on some PETG and seeing how things turn out. if anyone has any more tips on how to weather the plastic so it's rougher and not so transparent (I saw the sanding sponge suggestion) I'd greatly appreciate it. also Hamsterstyle, what would be best to use for painting the inside of the chest's abdominal area? I saw that you mentioned using acrylic, what kind did you use? did you need to water it down at all or anything? how is working with ochre? I had honestly never heard of the stuff until I read your post, I had to Google it to figure out exactly what it was.
 

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