My first build (deago ESB SS Falcon!)

That does look pretty good. I've been waiting to see if paragrix releases a grill set including the rear deck vents. I've taken a page from your book and have been carving and sanding details off but man is this work. I will be scaling this back and just removing a few parts here and there. Luckily the main parts that I want to replace are plant on thankfully so it's just drop in place.
 
That does look pretty good. I've been waiting to see if paragrix releases a grill set including the rear deck vents. I've taken a page from your book and have been carving and sanding details off but man is this work. I will be scaling this back and just removing a few parts here and there. Luckily the main parts that I want to replace are plant on thankfully so it's just drop in place.

VJ posted a link to a photoetch set at the bottom of page 10 here, check em out. I think it's PE.

Yeah removing all the molded on detail is a pain for sure, it leaves lots of holes that have to be filled. I wish I had made the descision to do this before I assembled the kit, would have been much easier to sand it all down :/ It's worth the effort though IMO, will end up being more detailed and about as close as one can get to the real thing.
 
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I have decided that when the time comes I'm going to pick up a set, I like the damaged look on the grills. How are the side walls coming along, did you end up moving the frame to the other side of the lugs.
 
I have decided that when the time comes I'm going to pick up a set, I like the damaged look on the grills. How are the side walls coming along, did you end up moving the frame to the other side of the lugs.

Yeah they look really cool, being able to bend them around some and get the look that is on the 5' would be cool, for me I just want something less busy and closer to the look of the SS model.

Yeah I feel like I have all the kinks worked out for screwing the sidewalls into the inside of the frame, I'm going to epoxy the nuts to the frame and remove the threads from the "now front side" so I can screw the bots in and not have the nuts moving around since I wont be able to get in and hold the nuts in place on the top parts that screw in. I'm also going to remove all the screws from the plating around the edge and file those little housings for the them down so I can mount the new sidewalls in flush with the bottom and top edge.
 
Did a test for the koolshade grill look using the sawblade tooth pattern idea, used the saw for the 8 vertical lines as well, turned out really cool, some superglue ran into some areas of the pattern and messed it up so I need to be a little cleaner when I do the final one but this should work really well! The scale is perfect:D




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Talk about going the ' whole hog ' . That looks terrific . Stupid question probably Ktaylor , I've been following your build from the beginning of your thread . Thought I'd be watching a novices' ( like myself after a prolonged hiatus ) attempt - your header ' My first build ' , you're anything but , by what you've shared . Simply amazing work , your solutions to ' roadblocks'
are a credit to your determination and persistence for an ideal that so many share , though for whatever reason , will never accomplish ( self definitely in that category ! )
You're attempting an as close as possible ' replica ' of the studio model ( seems like that so far ), or something as close to it with your personal touch ?
Cheers Ged .:thumbsup
 
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Thanks Gedmac!
I want something as close as to what I saw on screen in the TESB as I can get. The allure of "having the MF model"
This is my first practical Hard Surface build using plastics ect, I have a background in practical sculpture so I know my way around tools and process, just never worked in this particular medium before. I didn't realize I would be doing as much modification when I started this either, I planned on fixing the apparent stuff, but once I realized most of these kits were still around and could be used I realized it was the way to go for me!

I wont be trying to replicate the SS cockpit and turret bay stuff, I will probably go with the PE stuff I have seen for those. As far as the external model goes though I will be trying to be as faithful to the original as possible, at some point I may leave some of the DeAgo parts or find stuff that is just really close with the kits I have(I don't plan on trying to source every single kit for every single part, way too much for me personally I think I have about half of them now and will get the ones that have the most significant parts), for the pits in particular.
 
I really like what you've done with your kit. I'm from he school of adding just enough detail from kitbashing like your doing, and some parts from shapeways. I don't really care that it's not an exact copy of the studio model. Close enough is good enough for me. I'm definitely going to borrow some of your build steps. :)
 
Here is the final cast result of the new engine ring/koolshade-ish grill part. There is some stuff to fix on the master ring patterns proportions and there was some glue squeeze around some of the panels but the overall test was a success. Once I get the final updated part and mold I will offer these as a resin cast set of 6 to whoever is interested.

EngineRing PROTO.jpgringFixes.jpg
 
Here is the final cast result of the new engine ring/koolshade-ish grill part. There is some stuff to fix on the master ring patterns proportions and there was some glue squeeze around some of the panels but the overall test was a success. Once I get the final updated part and mold I will offer these as a resin cast set of 6 to whoever is interested.

View attachment 712895 ringFixes_V002.jpg

made a minor update to the green square fixes...
 
The pattern characteristics of the vertical lines and the TPI count on the saw blade line up basically perfect< there is of coarse some perspective and lens distortion to consider between the 2 photos, but I'm convinced this is how they created the scaled down cool shade grill for the 32"!

what do you all think!

There is other evidence to support this as well, with how the pattern is clearly repeated in 2" or so sections around the cockpit ring, 2 inches is about all I could get using this method and keep it even, so I stands to reason they had the same issue and just glued a bunch together around the cock pit ring! I present, the evidence!! hahah you decide!

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Destroyed thr DeAgo pit trying to drop out the detail hah, made new ones that I can build out clean from scratch by taping strip styrene around a glass jar and boiling it in water, then putting directly in cold water, reforms it to a perfect cylinder! Much thanks to Moska for this awesome tutorial on his scratchbuiilt x wing thread! You have amazing scratch skills!!

getting started on the port side top mandible pits

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I am going to re do all the hull plating as well, I want the correct plate thickness and overhang look on all of the pits and edges of the hull. I used strokes in adobe illustrator using the deago blueprint (I have digitally scanned) as a guide for all the plating. I sent them to a laser cutting company (ponoko) and had this test cut done in .02" white styrene (they don't have black:( for all the panels that need to be black for dremeling into i plan to use these as a template and re cut them in black styrene so I can better achieve the weathering techniques used on the original.
i tried to hand cut all these the first time and getting all those curves plates looking good and lining up was out of my skill set haha didn't want to invest time and money into any radial cutting jigs either. This laser cut test came out great and solves for cutting all those little notches as well!! The cost was really low as well will be around 40$ for the entire upper hull. This test was 5$ + shipping :/ totally worth it IMO

i got the scale off on my first test so they came out a bit small, have it all sorted and should have the top all cut soon!

the burnt lines around the cuts are actually on protective peel off paper the styrene came out perfect and clean. There was a small lip around the edge from the laser cut, the same lip you get from cutting styrene with an exacto, it sands right off though.


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In case you hadn't noticed (forgive me if you have), don't replace this one.

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It shouldn't be there. It should be a lower level. The panel proportions in this area are off, also.

I've thought about trying to remove it, but I don't think it would come out too well.
 
In case you hadn't noticed (forgive me if you have), don't replace this one.

View attachment 713868

It shouldn't be there. It should be a lower level. The panel proportions in this area are off, also.

I've thought about trying to remove it, but I don't think it would come out too well.

ah good to note, I haven't done a deep dive on the bottom plating yet but I think I know what your talking about, I recall see some areas where a plate is not added and just the hull is there creating a kind of recessed look.
 

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