My first build (deago ESB SS Falcon!)
- Thread starter Ktaylor
- Start date
gedmac66
Sr Member
G'day Ktaylor , incredible work / skill and patience aplenty you're sharing . Thank you .
Just one question though ( please feel free to ignore if inappropriate ) , apart from the hours you've obviously spent researching , modifying and collecting the numerous parts/kits involved , could you give us a ball - park figure cost wise ? , and no I'm not referring to your health or mental wellbeing LOL!!!
Cheers Ged .
,
Just one question though ( please feel free to ignore if inappropriate ) , apart from the hours you've obviously spent researching , modifying and collecting the numerous parts/kits involved , could you give us a ball - park figure cost wise ? , and no I'm not referring to your health or mental wellbeing LOL!!!
Cheers Ged .
,
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Ktaylor
Sr Member
Thanks Gedmac66, the hardest part is certainly staying the coarse and not just approximating some of the parts with kit pieces on hand and calling it a day
I haven't really kept track of what all the kits have cost ( kinda on purpose) but I have about 40 kits that average about 25-30$ usd each if I had to make a guess, I need about 10-15 more to finish the model out properly.
The deago kit is about 1500$ usd so whatever that all adds up to
I think once it's all said and done it will cost about what a MR falcon would cost, and will be the closest thing to an exact replica you can get. If I had this to do over I would sand everything down on the deago kit, plates and all, and. Hold everything up from scratch using the deago kit as just an armature-base shape.
I might do that at some point, we'all see
The real question is what to do with all these kits when I'm done, I think I want to build a star destroyer with all the left over parts, I won't be accurate with it but it would still look cool, and be close enough
I haven't really kept track of what all the kits have cost ( kinda on purpose) but I have about 40 kits that average about 25-30$ usd each if I had to make a guess, I need about 10-15 more to finish the model out properly.
The deago kit is about 1500$ usd so whatever that all adds up to
I think once it's all said and done it will cost about what a MR falcon would cost, and will be the closest thing to an exact replica you can get. If I had this to do over I would sand everything down on the deago kit, plates and all, and. Hold everything up from scratch using the deago kit as just an armature-base shape.
I might do that at some point, we'all see
The real question is what to do with all these kits when I'm done, I think I want to build a star destroyer with all the left over parts, I won't be accurate with it but it would still look cool, and be close enough
gedmac66
Sr Member
Thanks for your detailed reply mate . Don't know too many people personally who would have the dedication and commitment to have done what you have so far .
From what I've seen and read not just on the Deagostini Falcon , but , the SS ones too , your build would have to truly rate up there with the best of them .
Hoping the best , and looking forward to ( almost as much as you ! ) seeing her all done up .
Cheers Ged.:thumbsup
From what I've seen and read not just on the Deagostini Falcon , but , the SS ones too , your build would have to truly rate up there with the best of them .
Hoping the best , and looking forward to ( almost as much as you ! ) seeing her all done up .
Cheers Ged.:thumbsup
Ktaylor
Sr Member
Trying to find a practical way to replicate the scaled down kool shade material for the engine vents. Here I took my sawblade and taped a piece of styrene down to it and used the lip on the miter box as a backstop for the blade so I could make multiple passes and keep the saw teeth lined up in the grooves on each pass. I pretty much worked, of coarse it really depends on the saw blade you use and the tooth spacing. My blade is kinda old so some of the teeth have been knocked back a bit I assume. Perhaps a cleaner result would come from using a new blade? Might try it out and see.
I feel the scale is right, and if I did 5 or so strips I would probably get one that doesn't have any tooth crossover and get really even clean results. The main issue I see with this is adding the 8 vertical strips and making them look correct, I saw some .5mm strip styrene but I feel that is still too thick and would visually overpower the horizontal lines made by the saw blade.
Anyways gonna keep at it a bit more with this and see if it ends up being usable. Promising at least! Would love to hear how anyone else has solved for this.
I tried modeling it into a mesh that could be printed but the shapeways site gave me mesh errors on those areas as I guess they were too small, gonna try again with a different modeling technique to get a cleaner mesh, so maybe that could work still.
going to 3D print the rings at least and add the square styrene boxes to them so the detail stays sharp, also I will need to do a bit of sanding on the printed part to get it smooth so I left the little boxes off to make sanding easier.
This is the mesh I made to have printed but the grilling was too fine I guess for the software, It's a bunch of little tubes smashed together so I'm gonna try to model it out as a contiguous surface and see if that helps.
I feel the scale is right, and if I did 5 or so strips I would probably get one that doesn't have any tooth crossover and get really even clean results. The main issue I see with this is adding the 8 vertical strips and making them look correct, I saw some .5mm strip styrene but I feel that is still too thick and would visually overpower the horizontal lines made by the saw blade.
Anyways gonna keep at it a bit more with this and see if it ends up being usable. Promising at least! Would love to hear how anyone else has solved for this.
I tried modeling it into a mesh that could be printed but the shapeways site gave me mesh errors on those areas as I guess they were too small, gonna try again with a different modeling technique to get a cleaner mesh, so maybe that could work still.
going to 3D print the rings at least and add the square styrene boxes to them so the detail stays sharp, also I will need to do a bit of sanding on the printed part to get it smooth so I left the little boxes off to make sanding easier.
This is the mesh I made to have printed but the grilling was too fine I guess for the software, It's a bunch of little tubes smashed together so I'm gonna try to model it out as a contiguous surface and see if that helps.
vj mojo
Well-Known Member
I have seen these for sale http://scifimodels.de/shop/set-sm-001-deagostini-millennium-falcon-koolshade-parts
Ktaylor
Sr Member
Thanks to Darkview for finding these missing pipe in the rear port pit, they mirror the pipes on the 5' model and must have broken off pretty early, was able to see them though in this pic from the chronical and in a couple from sculpting a galaxy as well once I knew what to look for. Thanks again Darkview, looks rad!
Ktaylor
Sr Member
I kinda wish I hadn't terminated that pipe on the right into that empty area, should have put it next to the engine block:/ might redo that. That Empty area bugs me out!! I'm really tempted to put something subtle there, but also have a strong desire to make this accurate...grrrrr
DARKVIEW
Sr Member
I wouldn't worry or you'll go insane! On the originals as you'll know you look at one thing- and others are wrong on stuff.. end of the day yours will be more exact to the studio than most . . . and be amazing. Always like to think of Han and Chewy doing alterations every port at times that the never ending 100% studio modelling build we'd like that cannot be done... your close tho. ;-).
Ktaylor
Sr Member
Thanks Antarh! For bending brass I just use a pair of needle nose pliers, and grip and bend it on the flat part between the serrated needle part and the cutting part in the back, works great and give nice 90% angle bends! For more curved radiuses I just find some cylindrical with the right curve like marker or pen and bend around that.
Junk Pilot
Sr Member
How much did those Plastruct lampshades set you back? I'm thinking about getting some myself if it's economically viable
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