DeAgostini 1:1 Studio Scale Millenium Falcon Support Group and Info

If anyone uses vallejo paints, hemp + white brings you extremely close. Closer than any of the other of the other ones people have said comes close(aged white, camo white grey...) I want to say I tried a ratio of 5 to 1(white to hemp). I'll keeping trying ratios and report back.It's similar to grime but grime has more of a green tint to it.Id say it's between grime and model master camo grey.
 
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When I look at the Shapeways stuff, I'm a little lost. I don't keep up with the progress of 3D printing, if that's what it is, and that's my problem. The pictures are just weird, and I'm assuming they're software images rather that product images. Are there actual images out there of actual items?
Thanks,
Mike
 
Here's my nose cone (SpaceInScale). This one was painted by a member doing a build diary on 'buildmillenniumfalcon' forum. Member sjw2511.

If you click the link you'll also see pictures of it in primer. Even in the best print material, they sometimes require a little sanding, but i am also getting a test print from another source that prints a lot better and requires practically no finishing, and is also a little cheaper.

Even though i only have the cockpit canopy and turret window on there at the moment, there will be a lot more coming up. I will be making both the inside and the outside. I've been doing the rivet counting and making everything i do as close to the studio filming model as possible. Hope you like.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/Q3QFQ4SJ3/millennium-falcon-nose-cone-deag-studio-scale

deag_nc_011.jpg

deag_nc_012.jpg
 
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Here's my nose cone (SpaceInScale). This one was painted by a member doing a build diary on 'buildmillenniumfalcon' forum. Member sjw2511.

If you click the link you'll also see pictures of it in primer. Even in the best print material, they sometimes require a little sanding, but i am also getting a test print from another source that prints a lot better and requires practically no finishing, and is also a little cheaper.


Even though i only have the cockpit canopy and turret window on there at the moment, there will be a lot more coming up. I will be making both the inside and the outside. I've been doing the rivet counting and making everything i do as close to the studio filming model as possible. Hope you like.


Is it possible to see it with the original DeAgostini part.
 
Is it possible to see it with the original DeAgostini part.

Hi there. That is pictured with the original Deagostini cockpit tunnel.

Here as a pic in primer with Deagostini cockpit tunnel, and Deagostini interior. I put the same grooves and notch on the inside, just like the Deagostini model, so it would line up and fit perfectly.

018_1.jpg

022_1.jpg

021_1.jpg
 
Judging by this photo, it looks like the diameter of the cone is a bit smaller than the diameter of the tunnel.

No. It's exactly the same dimensions as the Deagostini. There is a ring which has a larger diameter that is on the start of the cockpit tunnel, and that has a larger diameter.
 
No. It's exactly the same dimensions as the Deagostini. There is a ring which has a larger diameter that is on the start of the cockpit tunnel, and that has a larger diameter.

I don't have either in my hand, but when I look at the pics, I look at the area BELOW the ring. There is a step there. It's only one side and proves nothing by itself, but it suggests. I'm guessing Gus76 has the wherewithal to notice the ring. Also, the step along the ring seems larger than the gap the ring presents on the tunnel on which it is molded. Since the response by Ebeneezer only addresses the ring, it doesn't fully address the issue.
Thanks,
Mike
 
I don't have either in my hand, but when I look at the pics, I look at the area BELOW the ring. There is a step there. It's only one side and proves nothing by itself, but it suggests. I'm guessing Gus76 has the wherewithal to notice the ring. Also, the step along the ring seems larger than the gap the ring presents on the tunnel on which it is molded. Since the response by Ebeneezer only addresses the ring, it doesn't fully address the issue.
Thanks,
Mike

Ahh, my apologies. I can see what you mean now.

It's the Deagostini cockpit tunnel which is wrong. The reason the diameter is larger in that area below the ring, is because they added the 0.5mm hull plating/armor in that area. On the filming model it had none in that area. I'm just copying the filming model as closely as i can. If Deagostini had not put the extra 0.5mm hull plating/armor in that area, they would be exactly the same diameter.

I just tried the Deagostini nose back on there, and it is also the same. Slightly smaller diameter.

Here is how it should look.

deag_nc_002.jpg
 
So, I went on a trek to find some accent paint today. Luckily, there's a couple of shops in my area with older paint. Only made it to one, but I think I lucked out on the colours.

For the "red", I've read that some feel that Floquil Caboose Red was used. They had it in stock, but I wanted to see if they had a water-based acrylic version. Found it. It's True Line Trains Paint #TLT010002 CP Bright Red (matches the Caboose Red just about perfectly). Down side is that it's a Canadian brand, and it's been discontinued. That said, a couple of places in my area stock it, so it's no big deal to find whatever I need (doubt I'll need more than a bottle or two anyway.) Here's the paint guide for TLT. Hoping my eye was good...



For the "yellow", I'm using Polly Scale Up Armor Yellow.

For the darker "grey" spots, I think I might go with Tamiya XF-82 Ocean Gray 2 (RAF). Seems pretty close.

As for the main colour, I'll try the 4 parts Tamiya Flat White to 1 part Tamiya Deck Tan formula.


I used the painting master found in the links in the first post to compare and these were the best I could find.

On another note, this shop also had a couple bottles of Floquil Grime and a bottle of Concrete. I didn't bother picking them up since I know I'd need way more than that to complete this sucka.
 
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Just a note about the longevity of liquid resin SLA 3D printed parts such as those made by Shapeways... In time they may warp, shrink, get brittle or have other issues. The process is really intended for prototyping and pattern making, not for final parts. After a couple of years you may start to see some problems, the larger the part, the more likely. To really create a part that will last as long as the rest of the model it's best to make a mold from the 3D printed part and cast it in a nice stable resin.
 
I have a new test print which i am cleaning up shortly, none Shapeways related. It is resin, and also almost layerless. A lot better than Shapeways best.

I will be casting this at some point and offering that a lot cheaper. Same with all the other CAD's i've done. Should be great to get these in resin finally.
 
I have a new test print which i am cleaning up shortly, none Shapeways related. It is resin, and also almost layerless. A lot better than Shapeways best.

I will be casting this at some point and offering that a lot cheaper. Same with all the other CAD's i've done. Should be great to get these in resin finally.

Good to hear. As much as I appreciate the hard work that folks have put into making the stuff, it's just reeeeeally expensive to get all the neat upgrades 3D printed. Good resin copies would rock.
 
Good to hear. As much as I appreciate the hard work that folks have put into making the stuff, it's just reeeeeally expensive to get all the neat upgrades 3D printed. Good resin copies would rock.

Completely agree. I never liked that part being completely out of my control.
 
Just a note about the longevity of liquid resin SLA 3D printed parts such as those made by Shapeways... In time they may warp, shrink, get brittle or have other issues. The process is really intended for prototyping and pattern making, not for final parts. After a couple of years you may start to see some problems, the larger the part, the more likely. To really create a part that will last as long as the rest of the model it's best to make a mold from the 3D printed part and cast it in a nice stable resin.

This is good to know.

But now more work.
 
This is good to know.

But now more work.

I'm not trying to slam anyone's work, because I have shapeways parts myself, but there is something a little off about that cockpit cone compared to the 32" that I can't quite put my finger on after looking at the photos. Comparing photos I actually think the overall shape of the DeAgostini looks closer to the original filming model. IMO
 
I'm not trying to slam anyone's work, because I have shapeways parts myself, but there is something a little off about that cockpit cone compared to the 32" that I can't quite put my finger on after looking at the photos. Comparing photos I actually think the overall shape of the DeAgostini looks closer to the original filming model. IMO

I know what you mean... I see it too... the printed cone is more accurate to the 5' footer. However, something I have noticed is that they made the ESB cockpit longer then the ANH cockpit by about a foot.
 
Thanks for that input Kokkari, I was just thinking of purchasing that cone. As you know, most of us don't have a MR or a filming model to compare
and it's tough to decide just by judging from pics.
And knowing that you own an MR's replica, I will go with your judgement :thumbsup Thx!!!
 
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