GhostMinion's Fallout 3d Models and Props

NormanF said:
I looked up an image of the mini nuke from in the game. I would make the large ones countersunk. Looking at the image I cannot tell if the others should be pan heads or countersunk.
This is what I was looking at: http://fallout.wikia.com/wiki/Mini_nuke_(Fallout_4)
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Yeah, I'll be countersinking the bottom (biggest) row of screws. Just need to thicken the walls so I have enough meat to drill into for there to be a countersunk hole. I'm able to rotate the model around in Noesis and get the shadow effects going, and it definitely appears that the top row of screws on the nose (smallest) are not countersunk. The middle row and bottom row look as though they are indeed countersunk. Ultimately, it's what's best for the two lower rows as they will "seal" against the surface better, since they are going onto a rounded surface. The top ones are so small it doesn't really matter.

I don't think you'll really be able to tell from the texture exactly "what" kind of heads the screws have. I basically eye balled everything and took measurements that would be ideal once I had the print in hand, and chose the screws based on the head diameter to try and match it as closely as I could. The screws I'm using are indeed pan heads and not countersinks.

karmajay said:
I actually have the Fallout anthology mini nuke if you need any pictures of that.
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Thanks for the offer, I actually have an Anthology nuke myself. Unfortunately it wouldn't help much anyways, the Anthology nuke is nowhere close to accurate to the F4 nuke. It resembles the F3 nuke a lot, and even then is not an accurate representation.
 
GhostMinion said:
.Thanks for the offer, I actually have an Anthology nuke myself. Unfortunately it wouldn't help much anyways, the Anthology nuke is nowhere close to accurate to the F4 nuke. It resembles the F3 nuke a lot, and even then is not an accurate representation.
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I will admit I am biased, but that Anthology nuke is wrong on just about everything except the overall shape. The only thing I would use it as a reference for would be how to store DVD's inside something.

Sent from my Motorola StarTAC
 
Valcrow said:
Looks great!! is it hollow? must be heavy if it is, what's the final weight?
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Well, they're mostly hollow. The ends are solid, as the resin tends to drain down to the bottom of the mold. I probably don't have the most conventional mold set up, but it's working. It actually works pretty good I think for the bottom half that the fins attach to. The key holes are solid all around them, so no worry of cracking the shell when inserting the fins, as the fit is slightly tight.

A heavier one just weighed in at 1 pound, 10 ounces. This isn't the final weight, though, as there will be material added to thicken the walls some. They aren't too heavy, but have some weight to them and actually feel good in your hand.
 
Took some time to assemble one of the nukes. Well, sort of. Still waiting on the right screws for the fins, so I have a few loosely fit in from the inside of the bottom ring. Only the fins and rings are painted, the body still needs paint. Not fully sure on the shade of green I went with, but we'll see once it's all painted up. Overall, I like how it's looking.



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It looks great. The use of real screws really sells it.

You may want to put in a printed disclaimer with any you ship, in case someone gets curious during transit. (Or will it ship in pieces?)
I did this when shipping my "RadioActive Ammo PC" since it had a authentic looking radiation warning sticker and a real ammunition sticker.
 
Awesome. I always prefer real hardware to 3d-printed fasteners, makes things look so much more functional :thumbsup
 
Thanks guys! :thumbsup


Yeah Zap, the one shown will be shipping in the States, so I doubt there'll be any troubles. However, it may be wise to put a disclaimer in the box, so I think I'll do that. Thanks for the tip. For international sales, though, I think I'm gonna ship with the two halves still separated, so customs can see inside the hollow halves. I'll just assemble everything else, so all that needs to be done on the client's end is glue the two halves together. I'll have to ask the clients what they think, as well.

But the kits ship in pieces, so no worries with them.
 
Well, hello everybody! I have some exciting news I'd like to share. A few days ago, I received my Form 2 SLA printer!!!

I decided to use lilykill's Fusion Core model as my first test subject. The first prints were pretty awesome. They do have a few things that need to be cleaned/fixed, but overall these are the cleanest, smoothest 3d printed parts I've ever held in my own hands. These will be way easier to master than even my cleanest FDM prints.

Definitely some room for fine tuning, but I'm happy with the first prints.


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Some progress on the fusion core. Almost done. I really, really like this new printer. And the material is really nice too. Easy to polish the prints nice and smooth, and the resin is very tough. I printed a part that was thin, about 4mm, and could not get it to bend or flex with my fingers.

Anyhow, this is what I have so far.

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I also re modeled the little pieces from the model. They were nice and pretty, but not accurate to what the parts look like in game. After a few hours, I had those ready and printed them up.


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More soon. :thumbsup
 
Those parts look amazing. If kept in a stable indoor climate, resin parts can last for decades. Resin breaks down faster when exposed to heat, sunlight, or high humidity. A good coat of paint will protect the surface and make it last much longer. Technically any plastic becomes more brittle eventually. There are also better resins than others. I know some resin based 3D printer companies swear their parts are as good a fiber filled nylon for both strength and working life.

How fast is the printer, say compared to a FDM printer for the same size part? I have found that getting high quality from the Ultimaker 2 takes a lot of time.
 
zapwizard said:
How fast is the printer, say compared to a FDM printer for the same size part? I have found that getting high quality from the Ultimaker 2 takes a lot of time.
Click to expand...



For the same size part, a FDM printer is waaaaaaaaay faster. While the actual layer time can be much faster than a FDM print, there are many more layers on the SLA prints since it can print much thinner layers. The Fusion Core parts total to about 50 hours of printing combined. I could've printed maybe four of them in that time on my M2. A group of the three little parts took just over two hours, my Replicator 2 would've done them in fifteen minutes (although nowhere nearly as clean and HD).

One thing that is a downside to the Form 2 is the tremendous cost to print. That fusion core was almost all the resin in a single cartridge, totaling almost 150 bucks to print! It was printed solid, and while it's very durable (and heavy) it was more than three times what it would cost to print it on a FDM printer. On top of the high cost of the resins (and mind you, I'm printing with their least expensive resin) there are the tanks that fill up with resin that need to be replaced about every three cartridges. The little clear window on the bottom that the laser shoots up through won't stay clear forever, and there's a silicone coating on it that the laser alone starts to degrade.

Not cheap at all to print with it. It's kinda like a Fat Man with only two nukes.................gotta use it wisely.
 
SUPER HAPPY RANT TIME!!!​




Yes guys, I'm super excited. As you can see, I have myself the makings of an Atom Cats leather jacket. I'd like to give a MEGA happy thanks to Christine Cannon of CannonArts for the tooled leather patch. She is selling these on her Etsy page, and is truly an awesome seller to deal with. The quality of the patch is breathtaking, and really made my day. If you didn't know, the jacket used in FO4 is a real jacket, and with the right patch you can have an exact replica Atom Cats jacket. Super duper excited about this one, so I wanted to share my experience with you guys in case you ever want to get your own jacket. She also has Kings patches from New Vegas, as well as Tunnel Snakes patches from FO3 (amongst other cool things).

100% Certified GhostMinion seal of approval.

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Anybody know some good techniques to weather the leather jacket? And by that, I mean moderately weather it, not destroy the hell out of it like in all the Youtube videos I could find...........

Any advice would be much appreciated. :)
 
Very cool! I'll have to check that site out.

As for weathering leather, the advice I once got on weathering leather was to "drag it across the sidewalk"... :facepalm So don't do that.
 
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