Edraven99's Collection Tread - Long Overdue Updates

Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

I literally logged on to the boards this morning to try to find a template to assemble my T-Tracks as well, (ANH Build). Do you have a link for it Edraven99 ?
I also have an "incorrect" two-step shroud. But it's the original to my Heiland, so I'm thinking about keeping it and possibly finding a new way to incorporate the D-Ring with the set-screw, which is missing from my shroud... Does anyone know where I could find JUST the set screw? As in, what type it is or what a good replacement could be? Besides scrounging for shrouds and parts off of ebay.

As for your MPP Edraven99 it's looking awesome! I think you should keep with the original
 
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Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

Well . . . if you like intwenothor's MPP build on the dented helmet of which I'm not a member by the way . . . that's one of my last 'matt' D-rings
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f45/darth-vader-esb-lightsaber-mpp-build-51309/ ... I have one left. Although a shiny one could be used as well as I did on my own MPP :

http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/zz258/Sym-Cha/20090820_6692.jpg

I have several of those left too but they need to be widened a bit to look as in above picture :)

Chaim

If you have an extra to spare I'd definitely take one! I was just going to canibalize the Parks D-ring, but his is more elongated in the middle where yours is more rounded, which I'll assume is more accurate?
 
Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

I'd try to repaint the parks one... I need to research the crinkle finish though, as I know nothing about it. But at least doing that you have the option... and can re-drill the parks hole for the D ring.

I was also thinking about the T tracks... I was going to use a 1/2" strip of VHB 5 mil tape to hold them in place while the epoxy cured. They don't need the whole length exoxied, and the fhb holds super mega strong anyway... Actually... maybe the tape is enough on it's own. Hmmmm

Check out my ESB Vader thread for how automotive wrinkle finish works. With enough heat it creates an extremely small wrinkle pattern that, up close, looks like fingerprints.
 
Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

I literally logged on to the boards this morning to try to find a template to assemble my T-Tracks as well, (ANH Build). Do you have a link for it Edraven99 ?

As for your MPP Edraven99 it's looking awesome! I think you should keep with the original

Thanks SpeedRacerx! I unfortunately don't know about the set screw, though I think I did see one on Ebay... I'll see if I can find a link for you... As for the grip template, here you go:

http://www.partsofsw.com

Just go to their downloads section. Oh and I'd actually download the pdf file... There seems to be an issue with the sizing if you try to print directly off the site.
 
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Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

@ Edraven99 and Speedracerx ... I can provide you both with your request :)

Chaim
 
Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

I just did my t track by eye.

You know... if you ever decide to make another EE-3... I might know a guy who knows a guy who has an incorrect shroud and clamp that would be willing to buy those parts from you... just saying :angel
 
Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

Check out my ESB Vader thread for how automotive wrinkle finish works. With enough heat it creates an extremely small wrinkle pattern that, up close, looks like fingerprints.
I found that the thickness of the paint makes a difference to how large the wrinkles get. To get a really thin layer, I rigged up a record player to rotate it at a steady speed. I started spraying to the side of the shroud and moved the spray over. That gave me very small wrinkles in a somewhat consistent size.
 
Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

See, I thought of using a lazy susan, but couldn't figure out how to get the perpendicular spray. To be more specific, the instructions said spray in 3 different directions and the turntable covers one hahaha <confused>
 
Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

@ Edraven99 and Speedracerx ... I can provide you both with your request :)

Chaim

While I am waiting for my parts from Chaim to arrive.... and while we are on the subject of painting, I have a Clamp from YodasHouse, except it isn't painted. Before I go find a can of black Rustoleum, has anyone painted one of these clamps before? Any suggestions or know what exact color I should use?

IMG_1288.JPG
 
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Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

I'd say black, can be gloss or semi-gloss and leave the sidebars and lever silver as is for ANH :)

Chaim
 
Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

Yep, I have that exact clamp, and i just used a semi-gloss rustoleum. Two light coats. My sidebars were poorly shaped, so I took a grinding wheel to them and made my own bevel
 
Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

Yep, I have that exact clamp, and i just used a semi-gloss rustoleum. Two light coats. My sidebars were poorly shaped, so I took a grinding wheel to them and made my own bevel

Thanks thd9791 and Chaim. That's what I was looking for. Good to know a semi-gloss black will look ok.
 
Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

Thanks thd9791 and Chaim. That's what I was looking for. Good to know a semi-gloss black will look ok.

Because of the way the black paint on my real MPP clamp faded, I'd almost be tempted to take a black sharpie to it, though I'd have no idea how to make it a) look even and b) keep the ink from rubbing off....
 
Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

Because of the way the black paint on my real MPP clamp faded, I'd almost be tempted to take a black sharpie to it, though I'd have no idea how to make it a) look even and b) keep the ink from rubbing off....
I don't know if I'm ballsy enough to do that... But maybe throw a clear coat over the sharpie then wet sand it down. I guess i'll stick to the semi-gloss and maybe fade it down a bit. My build is not 100% accurate. Using a Heiland and keeping the Heiland original shroud.
 
Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

I would leave as is, but if you ARE going to do anything, I would use a light coat of spray paint like they were talking above...

Something about sharpie doesn't sound right.
 
Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

Hey gang,

Time for a loooong overdue update....

As I mentioned over on Scottja's Graflex comparison thread, I managed to pick up another 3-cell for a fairly reasonable price - reasonable being a subjective term but definitely well below the $300-$400+ that they seem to be going for atm!

However, as I also mentioned, it was in a bit of rough shape with noticeable pitting and corrosion in the pictures of when I bought it. But thanks to some helpful advice from Mugatu and Probe Droid and a little baking soda and vinegar, I think I've managed to clean it up half decently:

Before:
IMG_1587.JPGIMG_1588.JPGIMG_1589.JPG
IMG_1591.JPGIMG_1590.JPGIMG_1592.JPG

After:
865598A7-2DFE-4E46-BAAF-9F37BAD36A36_zpszzp8ae2h.JPG1AFADA7E-CE7D-41F3-AFF5-7C3E581D68F1_zps0uqufho6.JPG0595083B-9080-4661-A285-05AD07C8F276_zpsukqzmwit.JPG
32286543-C151-4D9D-A64B-096429A645AF_zpsg1n08dvh.JPG04579EFD-AF29-4F2B-A6DA-606C9D0088BE_zpshf71aoem.JPG


As you can see, the 3-cell bottom is actually in slightly better shape than the top - most of the acid corrosion damage is hidden by the clamp where as there's that ring right in the middle of the top where the acid has eaten away at the nickle plating.

This works well for me since I was mainly after the bottom anyways...

Now I have a bit of dilemma. My other 3-cell that I was planning to use for my Luke ESB build is in pristine condition, but, the stamping on it isn't ideal since the Kobold clip would obscure both the "New York" and the "Folmer" on it when installed.

However, the placement of the stamp on this new Graflex is slightly better and neither the "New York" nor the "Folmer" would be obscured.

So... do I use the pitted 3-cell bottom with my otherwise pristine Graflex for my build, or keep using my pristine bottom? I think the T-Tracks will cover up most of the damage, but there would still be some pitting visible from what I can tell.

What do you guys think?

Oh and for the sake of full disclosure... here's the other project I've been working on that's been keeping me away from my builds. It's not quite screen accurate... but I'm happy with it :$

IMG_1189.JPG

IMG_1587.JPG


IMG_1588.JPG


IMG_1589.JPG


IMG_1591.JPG


IMG_1590.JPG


IMG_1592.JPG


865598A7-2DFE-4E46-BAAF-9F37BAD36A36_zpszzp8ae2h.JPG


1AFADA7E-CE7D-41F3-AFF5-7C3E581D68F1_zps0uqufho6.JPG


0595083B-9080-4661-A285-05AD07C8F276_zpsukqzmwit.JPG


32286543-C151-4D9D-A64B-096429A645AF_zpsg1n08dvh.JPG


04579EFD-AF29-4F2B-A6DA-606C9D0088BE_zpshf71aoem.JPG


IMG_1189.JPG
 
Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

David, great job on the cleaning.
Regarding the dilemma, I would use the bottom tube with the better placed stamping for the ESB. Almost half of the metal finish is obscured because of the grips, and I think a side by side of the two bottoms with grips on them would show very minimal difference. The bottoms on the other hand would show a vast difference to those whom it would matter to. That's my opinion anyway.

I am planning on revisiting my ESB and possibly extending the notch grooves of my bottom tube to have better placement of the stamping. This would be my first recommendation to you though, if you wanted to go that far. Then you'd use both original pristine pieces. Of course, I am also crazy, impatient, and reckless...so this may not be a good path for everyone!

In either case, both bottoms look good to me.
 
Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread

Nice to see an update on this set of builds.

I think if you've got the elusive New York Folmer with a sweet spot, go for it.
It'll bring a smile to your face every time you see it.
 

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