Bandai release schedule

Dedalus5550 said:

What may be getting lost here is that the overall height at the turrets and the sidewalls is not a measure of hull curvature, and the curvature is what I was talking about. In theory, the turret measure could be spot on and the sidewall height could be spot on. And hull could be a straight line from one to the other. What I have in hand is a good portion of the DeAgo kit, up to about issue 60. The parts along the hull curvature--"docking ring hexagons" and the gear box structure--show a much more pronounced curve over the FM kit. Now, if the DeAgo kit is spot on in this regard compared to the studio 32-inch model, this suggests to me that there is a lot more going on than just 5-6mm of difference, turret to sidewall.
Mike Todd

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Jaitea said:

Joining the dots, between the overall height at the centre of the ship, to the height of the sidewalls = hull curvature

If the overall height is too low, & the height of the sidewall is too high,....you get a reduced angle to make a curve.......if on the other hand the measurements were correct......you'd have the angle and enough distance from centre to hull edge to make the correct curve

It really is that simple

Getting the fundamental dimensions wrong, knocks everything else out......FM has moved or fudged the rest of the ship about to make areas fit, all because of the height of the ship

J

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Dedalus5550 said:

Um, wow. No, curvature is not the difference between two points. Try that again. The distance between those two points can be perfectly straight, and there would be no curvature at all. The turrets could be an inch too tall, with the sidewalls being half as thick, but if the distance between them is absolutely a straight line, there would be NO CURVATURE at all. You seem to be describing SLOPE. The curvature is affected to some degree by the difference in height, but the difference in height is not a measure of curvature. If the curvature starts out by the turret as "flat" or parallel to the ground, say, then it would different from starting out as more angled toward the sidewalls (a "head start", say). I wish I could draw a picture if it would help, but I just don't know how to do that and post it. I guess I could draw it on paper and take a picture but even then I've had issues recently with posting pics.

My point is that, to me, the the FM is more of a straight line than the DeAgo kit. (And I'm not saying it's an exact straight line, nor have I analyzed the DeAgo kit to see if it's accurate to the curvature of the real 32-inch model.)

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Robiwon said:

Please Bandai, release the Star Destroyer in clear plastic!!!!!
http://dorobou.blog.so-net.ne.jp/

He cast certain parts in clear resin. Bandai certainly could mold these same parts in clear plastic on the same sprue.

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Dedalus5550 said:

I don't understand the point of a clear SD. What am I missing? In order to light it it, you would need to paint it really solidly, probably several coats of black on the inside to keep light from getting through. This is needed when it's white or gray plastic, so clear would need this and more. After all that, how would you deal with getting light through "windows"? The same kind of drill as you would with white/gray plastic? Seems like a clear plastic version would be more trouble, not less. However, I've never done this kind of lighting project, so I might be missing something.

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rbeach84 said:

It would be a trick to mask off the 'windows' externally, but the unpainted spots would be illuminated via an internal source and theoretically spread throughout by the internal reflections... 'edge lighting' in effect. However, I'd expect the model would have to be engineered to accommodate the light source(s) for best effect. A coating of silver on both sides might help with the light transmission.

Probably moot, since I'd expect that isn't in Bandai's plans... but you never know! Would be nice if they did...

R/ Robert

-------------------------update-----------------
Robyn, 'jinx'! ;^)

I like that idea better (cleaning off the paint layer), plus the scuffing of the plastic surface would act to diffuse the light a tiny bit... bravo!

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robn1 said:

I forgot to mention that the first coat should be white, to make the interior reflective, then primer etc. No paint on the inside, that would defeat the purpose of a clear hull.

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