BTTF Doc's Futaba Remote & In-car Digital Speedometer Build/Log (NagleIndustries)
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Everything is going smoothly. Ill be posting an update on prices and a timeline soon. (very soon)
The last thing Im working on are the metal pin sockets that go into the socket base for the Stanley Readouts.
Here is a pic of the first mounting plate.
The last thing Im working on are the metal pin sockets that go into the socket base for the Stanley Readouts.
Here is a pic of the first mounting plate.
The plate looks to be out of proportions, it looks smaller in the movie I think.
For the size of the plate, you have to look at the mounting holes for the readout socket. I have (on hand) a real Stanley readout display and the Readout socket.
Center to center, the holes are 40.5 mm apart.
Alternatively, one could measure the mounting plate off of a known feature on the futaba, like the power meter.
Center to center, the holes are 40.5 mm apart.
Alternatively, one could measure the mounting plate off of a known feature on the futaba, like the power meter.
Here are some screenshots... Might be handy to compare... Looks indeed like the screen used plate has the lower screws a bit lower, and a bit less metal above the top screws, making the plate a little smaller...
I did a little photoshop, and think this looks a bit more sreen accurate. Didn't touch the part i the red rectangle, just lowered everything a bit and mate the top a bit smaller:
I did a little photoshop, and think this looks a bit more sreen accurate. Didn't touch the part i the red rectangle, just lowered everything a bit and mate the top a bit smaller:
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Forgeting about whatever reason the plate is lifted from the futuaba, My mounting plate doesn't appear too big to me. Could maybe loose a mm off the width.
It will look a whole lot different with 3 readouts attached to it
. And I guess you have to take into account they probably filmed on a large diameter long lens, and I snapped that pic with my phone (at an angle that doesn't match any of the movie shots).
It will look a whole lot different with 3 readouts attached to it
. And I guess you have to take into account they probably filmed on a large diameter long lens, and I snapped that pic with my phone (at an angle that doesn't match any of the movie shots).
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Looks like the plate is two times the size of the plastic antenna holder:
On the replica, the plate seems much bigger than two times that antenna holder, but that might have to do because the pictures is taken from an angle (from above). Maybe a picture from the front, gives another view on things?
On the replica, the plate seems much bigger than two times that antenna holder, but that might have to do because the pictures is taken from an angle (from above). Maybe a picture from the front, gives another view on things?
For the closest accurate measurements, one should try to use objects in the same plate of distance from the lens. (and ideal account for the circular aberration from the center of the lens)
Tom, the plastic antenna holder is 3cm further back than the plane of the front of the mounting plate. I'm measuring the plate size from the mounting holes for the readout sockets. Same distance plane (within a mm). Center to center vertically, the holes are 41mm apart. Horizontally, the outside two are 46mm. I have a stanley readout and socket on hand, and measured everything multiple times over many days creating a 3d model. So the 41 and 46 are solid.
I've spec'd the current plate at 53mm high from the bend, and 74mm wide. The pic in my post above should clear the numbers up.
The screw head is about 5.5mm in diameter.
That leads me to believe the screws used are 3/8inch long 4-40 stainless slotted oval head machine screws.
-Gary
Tom, the plastic antenna holder is 3cm further back than the plane of the front of the mounting plate. I'm measuring the plate size from the mounting holes for the readout sockets. Same distance plane (within a mm). Center to center vertically, the holes are 41mm apart. Horizontally, the outside two are 46mm. I have a stanley readout and socket on hand, and measured everything multiple times over many days creating a 3d model. So the 41 and 46 are solid.
I've spec'd the current plate at 53mm high from the bend, and 74mm wide. The pic in my post above should clear the numbers up.
The screw head is about 5.5mm in diameter.
That leads me to believe the screws used are 3/8inch long 4-40 stainless slotted oval head machine screws.
-Gary
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The top of the remote is only 3,5 cm. So unless the plate sticks out, over the top of the remote, the antenna only is about 1 cm more to the back.
But let's compare it to the switch panel, then (this is about the only part on the remote on the same level as the plate, since the panel doesn't stick out, as far as I can see in the screencaps). OK, this panel is a bit tilted, but if you measure it straight up, ignoring the slight angle, this is about 17 / 18 mm. As you can see, the panel is less than three times this panel, so less than 51 / 54 mm... I really think you can loose some space below the bottom row of screws, and above the top row, really...
Do you already have these screws? Maybe a picture of the plate with the screws in, gives another image... Or maybe a picture fo the remote with plate from the front, rather than from above, because this angle plays tricks with the eyes too...
Just wanting to help making these as screen accurate as possible, mate
.
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Tom, tone is easily lost in text. Please do not read anything but gratitude and friendly conversation in my messages. If anyone has factual evidence toward anything, I welcome them to speak up; I can miss things and make mistakes just like any other human.
I agree the switch panel is about 18mm. I think where problems are coming in is the gap between the readout mounting plate and the top of the Futaba. My plate is based off the highest point of the screen plate, to the top of the futaba. The screen accurate one has a gap, that Ive just paid attention to over the last few days. With no indication of mechanical fasteners, I would have to say that the production used sticky backed velcro to attach the plate to the futaba (and also the unibox). Both move slightly between shots relative to features on the remote. Velcro would be a good way to ensure quick serviceability and a bit of help if someone handled it too roughly.
Im not sure yet that I would like going that route, but I welcome conversation on the matter.
Ignoring the gap, the height of the plate is correct. I agree I could loose 1-2mm or so in the width.
-Gary
I agree the switch panel is about 18mm. I think where problems are coming in is the gap between the readout mounting plate and the top of the Futaba. My plate is based off the highest point of the screen plate, to the top of the futaba. The screen accurate one has a gap, that Ive just paid attention to over the last few days. With no indication of mechanical fasteners, I would have to say that the production used sticky backed velcro to attach the plate to the futaba (and also the unibox). Both move slightly between shots relative to features on the remote. Velcro would be a good way to ensure quick serviceability and a bit of help if someone handled it too roughly.
Im not sure yet that I would like going that route, but I welcome conversation on the matter.
Ignoring the gap, the height of the plate is correct. I agree I could loose 1-2mm or so in the width.
-Gary
On the plate subject - I actually took a second and measured the one I've pictured, and I bent it in the wrong spot:facepalm. Ill post pics of a new one. It should look better.
In other news, I got the PCBs in yesterday for inside the readout displays. I took the time and soldered one up with the correct pins.
If I had LEDs that I thought are suitable replacements for the lamps, I could start assembly on them.
The pic on a white background is a real readout.
-Gary
In other news, I got the PCBs in yesterday for inside the readout displays. I took the time and soldered one up with the correct pins.
If I had LEDs that I thought are suitable replacements for the lamps, I could start assembly on them.
The pic on a white background is a real readout.
-Gary
This could explain why I thought the space between the bottom screws and where the plate bended, was quite wide. Anyway, without the screws themselves and the readout, it's difficult to evaluate. But I'm sure these will turn out great in de end.
Nice work so far, and heads off for tackling such a complicated build... I have two green futaba's that are very happy now, knowing they will be transformed in a fantastic prop replica
.'Someone in the know' was shown the screen grabs in post #29 and asked If sticky backed velcro was used to hold the plate and the unibox to the futaba. To quote, the answer I received is " It was probably just a couple of tabs of double faced foam core tape."
:cry
Sad that is the answer, glad its answered.
-Gary
An Irrational fear that an adhesive alone would not hold up over time. Call me old school, but I like my mechanical fasteners!
I've got some 3m VHB tape on order thats the right color and thickness.
Looking over some frames, I noticed that the plate doesnt have dividers.
Here is a pic of a plate I made today sitting on some rubber I had laying around to approximate the space underneath. Size looks right on. (I took 2mm too much off the right, stretched it in PS)
-Gary
I happen to have 10 close LEDs kicking around in my junk box that are pretty close. They let me assemble the first Readout tonight.
I had to dust off the electronics to light it up, so I thought I would demo turning the knob in a super quick video (sorry for the quality).
-Gary
I had to dust off the electronics to light it up, so I thought I would demo turning the knob in a super quick video (sorry for the quality).
-Gary
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