DL-44 ESB Blaster Discussion - Greeblies POST 208

Solos blaster · Nov 14, 2016

I say leave it too. Helps with the weathered appearance of the blaster.

Or, if your going for the look of a 100+ year old weapon used for the prop...

See, a few reasons to not worrying about the pitting lol.

kevin926 · Nov 14, 2016

halliwax said:
kevin what stripper did you use?

This one :lol

Halliwax · Nov 14, 2016

oh i though u used a chemical stripper

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Halliwax · Dec 2, 2016

just finished my 3 hour project of blueing the denix... followed the instructions to a t. .... i used the whole bottle on the lower, i didnt even have enough for the upper and couldnt get darker then this.

think im going back to BBQ black tomorrow...

kevin926 · Dec 2, 2016

not too sure if the brands make a difference however, I used this product. Came with cleaner, sponge, steel wool and cloth as well as the blue. I didn't use much. Mine was completely hand rubbed without saturating any part. Just a small amount on the sponge and rubbed in a circular motion until I covered the area. I didn't follow any instructions. I just tried a test area and kept going. It's also half the cost.

Halliwax · Dec 2, 2016

wow, my kit came with pretty much the same stuff. now im second guessing myself if i should have used the "super blue" instead of just the "gun blue". either way tomorrow im going to cover it in satin black, and then give it a weathering job and call it done.

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kevin926 said:
View attachment 687746
not too sure if the brands make a difference however, I used this product. Came with cleaner, sponge, steel wool and cloth as well as the blue. I didn't use much. Mine was completely hand rubbed without saturating any part. Just a small amount on the sponge and rubbed in a circular motion until I covered the area. I didn't follow any instructions. I just tried a test area and kept going. It's also half the cost.

yours says "cold bluing" i wonder if there is a difference?

Dann · Dec 2, 2016

halliwax said:
wow, my kit came with pretty much the same stuff. now im second guessing myself if i should have used the "super blue" instead of just the "gun blue". either way tomorrow im going to cover it in satin black, and then give it a weathering job and call it done.

- - - Updated - - -

yours says "cold bluing" i wonder if there is a difference?

Hot bluing is totally different. I think you should definitely use the super blue, don't give up!

KramStaar · Dec 2, 2016

halliwax said:
wow, my kit came with pretty much the same stuff. now im second guessing myself if i should have used the "super blue" instead of just the "gun blue". either way tomorrow im going to cover it in satin black, and then give it a weathering job and call it done.
- - - Updated - - -
yours says "cold bluing" i wonder if there is a difference?

Blue Wonder turns the Denix potmetal nearly black the blue is so dark.
It does need to be handled reasonably carefully though because it scratches fairly easily..

Best of luck
MARK

Treadwell · Dec 2, 2016

Don't give up, I think it's looking pretty good already!

Also, at the end, when you rub oil into the surface, that darkens it. Try it on a part that gets covered, like the sides of the grip, to see.

Dann · Dec 2, 2016

Barricade is a great product to protect bluing as well. Maybe saturate it in that and leave it overnight.

thd9791 · Dec 3, 2016

That's true!

I used Ebony Briwax to seal my blueing and it darkened it a bit too. This stuff is a solvent and may lighten a paint layer, but it hardens really really well too.

veektohr · Dec 3, 2016

The overnight soak in Barricade is key to keeping the bluing from wearing off too fast. It's like letting the turkey rest before carving it - incredibly frustrating, but cannot be skipped. After you're satisfied, a layer of wax takes it the rest of the way there. I use Rennaissance Wax.

Halliwax · Dec 3, 2016

this well be a long day remembered.... the fail of the bluing, and the redemption of the denix.

the pictures cant really pick it up but i did such a light coat of black, that you can actually see a shine of blue! exactly what i was trying to do with the strain perma blue! im much happier now!

now its off to studying what black to use for the scope

i want to thank all the great advice, i started outside early this morning so i missed some of the posts with options on what to do. i appreciate the advice

kevin926 · Dec 3, 2016

That looks great. Glad it worked out. Not sure about the han scope however the scope finish on the e11 is more of a bumpy hammered finish but not wrinkle. Also a flat finish. I think they are the same scope. Both tank styles

Solos blaster · Dec 5, 2016

halliwax said:
just finished my 3 hour project of blueing the denix... followed the instructions to a t. .... i used the whole bottle on the lower, i didnt even have enough for the upper and couldnt get darker then this.

http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/y323/lightningdan/Han ESB DL-44/denixfail1.jpg

think im going back to BBQ black tomorrow...

Yea...you really need to let it dry vs rinse it off after letting it sit for 30-60 seconds. Then lightly and I mean lightly buff with 0000 steel wool and then repeat until dark enough. Between my two ESB blasters, I experimented a few different ways, with blue and the Super blue and found best results just using the Super Blue.

Halliwax · Dec 5, 2016

Solos blaster said:
Yea...you really need to let it dry vs rinse it off after letting it sit for 30-60 seconds. Then lightly and I mean lightly buff with 0000 steel wool and then repeat until dark enough. Between my two ESB blasters, I experimented a few different ways, with blue and the Super blue and found best results just using the Super Blue.

thanks for the advice, i think im going to try super blue next time. im definatly going to use it on my romans grenade

triumphfx · Dec 30, 2016

Great work by everyone here. I have an airsoft mauser I want to convert. Is there anyone I can PM regarding conversion kits (for Luke ESB, or ROJ version, or something very similar). Thanks.

Solos blaster · Dec 30, 2016

triumphfx said:
Great work by everyone here. I have an airsoft mauser I want to convert. Is there anyone I can PM regarding conversion kits (for Luke ESB, or ROJ version, or something very similar). Thanks.

There is a RoTJ kit up for sale in the Junkyard right now for Boba debt's recent run. Parts are being made as we speak. BD is out of town or just getting back from a funeral but send him a PM if you're interested. Best kits out there for ESB/RoTJ and you won't see them again at this price. But you may want to go with a denix unless you have a regular 1896 model and not an M712(select fire), airsoft.

Here:http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=270857

thd9791 · Dec 30, 2016

Any more detail on this barricade stuff? My blueing can be scratched off and thats totally unacceptable

Dann · Dec 31, 2016

Right after you blue, and do a little blending with steel wool, coat that sucker in the Barricade. Hang it up somewhere, put something under it for drippage, and leave it alone for as long as possible. Overnight, at the very least.

Once you cannot wait any longer, take a nice clean cloth and gently massage the whole gun.

Nothing short of hot bluing will keep it from scratching, but the Barricade is much better than nothing at all.

And you can always reapply, whenever.

DL-44 ESB Blaster Discussion - Greeblies POST 208

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