swmodelfan1977
New Member
Excellent Wayne!
Project: Revell AT-AT Walker
- Thread starter anamorphicWayne
- Start date
TazMan2000
Master Member
Incredible. Now you only have to make 4 more and you can remake the Battle of Hoth scene. :lol
TazMan2000
TazMan2000
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
WEBBY1076,
I'm not aware of any plans, but baloo has done an excellent rendition that I found quite useful when I was doing my head. It's a good place to start.
Blueprint for AT-AT Revell
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=151231
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
Thanks joberg.
I apologize everyone for not having any new updates, but I've been under the weather and then planning a short trip. But as soon as I'm back, I'll be right at it.
All I have to report is, I've gave the legs a quick priming and I'm working out all issues.
HaHa :unsure Well, I intended it to be a Revell conversion project, but it turn into a mind of its own. But I would say it's at least 10% Revell, so if that helps to justify the title, than I can live with that.
rbeach84
Sr Member
Oh man, you gave me a good chuckle on that one - 10%! Been there; working to correct a 'kit' and it turns into 'why all this work? Should just start from scratch, it would be easier...'
Makes me think of something I came across years ago. At a time when there was no kit of the Bell O-47 helicopter (the ones used in the MASH TV series for example) so a fellow thought, hey why not make a 'kit'? Well, he called his label 'Scratchbuilt' and indeed it was - it consisted of a clear vacuformed bubble for the canopy and some drawings so the modeler could fabricate the remainder of the open-truss fuselage, engine, gearboxes, rotors, etc.
Might have been okay if not for the drawings being a joke & the plastic baggie "packaging" usually resulted in a crushed canopy part. Really poor effort... anyway, your project is apparently using the Revell kit mostly for inspiration. Looking forward (patiently) to further updates.
Cheers ~ Robert
Makes me think of something I came across years ago. At a time when there was no kit of the Bell O-47 helicopter (the ones used in the MASH TV series for example) so a fellow thought, hey why not make a 'kit'? Well, he called his label 'Scratchbuilt' and indeed it was - it consisted of a clear vacuformed bubble for the canopy and some drawings so the modeler could fabricate the remainder of the open-truss fuselage, engine, gearboxes, rotors, etc.
Might have been okay if not for the drawings being a joke & the plastic baggie "packaging" usually resulted in a crushed canopy part. Really poor effort... anyway, your project is apparently using the Revell kit mostly for inspiration. Looking forward (patiently) to further updates.
Cheers ~ Robert
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
It would of been nice if I made this beastie as studio scale, but I soon realized I had only four gauges of aluminum at my disposal. (1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 3/8). So, it was fortunate that I choose the scale I did. Otherwise, I would of been up a something stream without something to paddle with.
But yeah, the Revell kit was good jumping board. This project is close to being done (modeling-wise) and I'm quite anxious to see how it'll turn out. I do have to contend with the painting stage which will be as nerve-wrecking as the modeling stage IMHO.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
Hello Everyone. I know I haven't made an update since....February? Ay Geez, that's quite unacceptable isn't it? I've been constantly distracted with other things and events, so I'll do my darn-est to update more since I'm so close to completion.
Since my last update, I found some issues with the joints which forced me to do some changes. Well, I got most of the issues resolved. But for this update, I thought I'd start with the greeblies.
THE LEGS Part XIX
The Greeblies.
I broke down each greeblie and map them out to scale.
I started with the Leg trims. They're basically three styrene strips glue to a base and cut to length.
Next, were the plates on the back of the Upper Legs. I used thin styrene and scratched built those add-ons.
The plates for the Upper Leg Panel were next.
The end caps for the Foot Pins were fashioned from styrene and punched with the three holes.
The Ankle greeblies were next, the blocks for the sides and for the bottom. They'll will added to the Ankles once they are finalized.
Here's the lot so far.
Next, I'll finish off the rest for the Ankles.
Since my last update, I found some issues with the joints which forced me to do some changes. Well, I got most of the issues resolved. But for this update, I thought I'd start with the greeblies.
THE LEGS Part XIX
The Greeblies.
I broke down each greeblie and map them out to scale.
I started with the Leg trims. They're basically three styrene strips glue to a base and cut to length.
Next, were the plates on the back of the Upper Legs. I used thin styrene and scratched built those add-ons.
The plates for the Upper Leg Panel were next.
The end caps for the Foot Pins were fashioned from styrene and punched with the three holes.
The Ankle greeblies were next, the blocks for the sides and for the bottom. They'll will added to the Ankles once they are finalized.
Here's the lot so far.
Next, I'll finish off the rest for the Ankles.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
THE LEGS Part XIX
The ANKLE Greeblies continue.
For make those 'small arm' greeblies, that are next to the Support Rods, I made a metal template. From that, it was easy enough to cut/trim them from styrene.
Next, were the 'bolt caps' and the 'Support Rod bases'. I made the bases from layered styrene and simply file them to shape. I then drilled the holes to accommodate the rods.
From a master 'bolt cap', I pressed several impressions into Fimo clay. After cooking the clay, I poured in resin and let it cured. I did more than I needed, just in case some didn't work out.
Later, I cleaned them up and prep for the Ankles by carving out the backs and enlarge the top holes to make fit the bolts (not seen here).
Next will be the Pistons.
The ANKLE Greeblies continue.
For make those 'small arm' greeblies, that are next to the Support Rods, I made a metal template. From that, it was easy enough to cut/trim them from styrene.
Next, were the 'bolt caps' and the 'Support Rod bases'. I made the bases from layered styrene and simply file them to shape. I then drilled the holes to accommodate the rods.
From a master 'bolt cap', I pressed several impressions into Fimo clay. After cooking the clay, I poured in resin and let it cured. I did more than I needed, just in case some didn't work out.
Later, I cleaned them up and prep for the Ankles by carving out the backs and enlarge the top holes to make fit the bolts (not seen here).
Next will be the Pistons.
swmodelfan1977
New Member
Welcome back Wayne!
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
Welcome back Wayne!
Thanks swmodelfan1977.
I should have another update shortly. Stay tuned....
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
THE LEGS Part XXI
The Pistons.
To tackle this issue, I thought of utilizing swmodelfan1977 design he posted a while back. Thanks so much swmodelfan1977.
swmodelfan1977 Piston design concept.
What I did with mine was have the Pistons connected to the Cam by pins and have them slide along two horizontal slots on either side of the Cam. As the Cam rotates, it pushes one Piston down and raises the other.
I started by making the Cams. I used clear plastic instead of metal as it was easier to cut the slots.
Next, I did a mock up of the system, before committing to it, by making up two Pistons with pins.
As you can see, the two Pistons slide nicely along the slots as the Cam rotates. But I had to figure out how to drive the Cam by using the guide pin on the Hip Plate.
That's where swmodelfan1977 design helped out. I made a 'curve arm' that connects from the guide pin down to the Piston via its pin. I had to modify the arm a bit because it was bumping against the Cam's core. The next part of this trick, was to get the Rails mounted perfectly vertical and at a height so the Pistons had enough clearance to freely slide up and down. Not an easy task. Also, I had to shave off a tad around the 'curved slot' on the Upper Legs so the arm had enough clearance as well.
So, there you have it. The next part of this is to test it and see how well it works with the rest of the legs. :unsure Gulp!
The Pistons.
To tackle this issue, I thought of utilizing swmodelfan1977 design he posted a while back. Thanks so much swmodelfan1977.
swmodelfan1977 Piston design concept.
What I did with mine was have the Pistons connected to the Cam by pins and have them slide along two horizontal slots on either side of the Cam. As the Cam rotates, it pushes one Piston down and raises the other.
I started by making the Cams. I used clear plastic instead of metal as it was easier to cut the slots.
Next, I did a mock up of the system, before committing to it, by making up two Pistons with pins.
As you can see, the two Pistons slide nicely along the slots as the Cam rotates. But I had to figure out how to drive the Cam by using the guide pin on the Hip Plate.
That's where swmodelfan1977 design helped out. I made a 'curve arm' that connects from the guide pin down to the Piston via its pin. I had to modify the arm a bit because it was bumping against the Cam's core. The next part of this trick, was to get the Rails mounted perfectly vertical and at a height so the Pistons had enough clearance to freely slide up and down. Not an easy task. Also, I had to shave off a tad around the 'curved slot' on the Upper Legs so the arm had enough clearance as well.
So, there you have it. The next part of this is to test it and see how well it works with the rest of the legs. :unsure Gulp!
TazMan2000
Master Member
Who would have thought the inner workings would have been more complex than the outer skin.
TazMan2000
TazMan2000
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
Yeah, even though there's less going on in there.
swmodelfan1977
New Member
Wow, you made it !!!!!!!
It is looking good. Would like to see movie later. ;-)
Please make sure center pin of cam is better to be supported by upper leg cover. It is meaning another end of center pin that one-end fixed by epoxy but another is not. Some sort of support required. Upper leg cover can have such small digged hole because outside surface have mold.
This is what I have done with my prototype. I assume that you have made but just in case.
It is looking good. Would like to see movie later. ;-)
Please make sure center pin of cam is better to be supported by upper leg cover. It is meaning another end of center pin that one-end fixed by epoxy but another is not. Some sort of support required. Upper leg cover can have such small digged hole because outside surface have mold.
This is what I have done with my prototype. I assume that you have made but just in case.
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