Hasbro Rebels Millennium Falcon Conversion
- Thread starter kokkari
- Start date
JMChladek
Sr Member
Not if you do it right it won't. I admit a chrome foil likely would cause hot spots, but a typical aerosol based silver or aluminum tends to fade the light out enough (as long as the bulbs aren't too close to the frosted clear piece). Plus, in combination with cool white LEDs, it tends to give the glow a bluer tinge while white sometimes can warm it up a little (although admittedly that would probably work better for a pre-digital ANH Falcon which seemed more white then blue with its engine glow).
Are you talking about light bleeding through? I used spray adhesive and tin foil on my Polar lights 1/350 Enterprise........stripped it and used flat black spray. The paint worked just as well with less weight.
On this build I think ill mount it from the docking port on the side am mount it on a wall. On the 32" Hasbro MF ill do a MR style base.
JMChladek
Sr Member
In my experience, a layer of metallic based paint works just fine for light blocking as I did this with two models I built (including the Polar Lights 1/350 TOS Enterprise I recently built). Reason being is metallics are made up of metal particles and will build up to an opaque layer in fewer coats than normal paint. Plus, given their reflective properties, they can also act to diffuse light inside a model. Granted white can also work to diffuse light, but it doesn't work too well for light blocking. For my Falcon, I'll probably go ahead and build a light box inside, due to the shapes of the top and bottom hulls. That should keep the lighting of the engine core nice and even and help with other potential light leaks if I do it right.
One paint I am going to test out on this plastic is Krylon Fusion. It works well enough on vinyl plastics and it takes model paints topside just fine (everything from Tamiya lacquers to enamel and acrylics). If it results in a durable enough layer, that will likely be my primer.
One paint I am going to test out on this plastic is Krylon Fusion. It works well enough on vinyl plastics and it takes model paints topside just fine (everything from Tamiya lacquers to enamel and acrylics). If it results in a durable enough layer, that will likely be my primer.
I too was planning on testing out Krylon Fusion for plastic. It's worked really well for me in the past. I'll let you know how it works.
This is a good idea Kokkari!
Very easy to swap from landed position to flight position. If you need something to create about the landing gear for your magnet set up, just PM me.
I tried the krylon primer designed specifically for plastic, don't waist your time. It adheres better than standard primer but still peels off with the tape test. I also tested the automotive adhesive agent and primer and it worked beautifully. That seems to be the way to go.
what were the brand names for the adhesive and primer? Was that the PolyPro stuff?
The adhesion promoter that I use is the DupliColor CP199 Adhesion Promoter together with DupliColor Gray Primer. Both can be found in most automotive parts/paint stores. The adhesion promoter provides much more "bite" on surfaces like polyethylene and polypropylene that normally resist painting.
E
I found them at my local Kragen auto parts store. They probably are sold at most auto-part stores. Check out post #9 from this link to see photos of the Dupli-color adhesion promoter and primer http://www.therpf.com/f11/hasbro-hero-series-1-18-scale-x-wing-heavy-mods-224604/
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I agree 100%. I let it dry for 8 hours and could not pull off the primer no matter how hard I ripped the tape. Also, the surface just felt more like a standard plastic after I used it, not the waxy feel from before.
This link is where I got mine.....if the link shows in stock that means its in stock on line.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Star-Wars-Rebels-Millennium-Falcon-Vehicle/38082550
I think this is the Walmart product ID number that you can search stores in your area:
Walmart #: 552921571
I found this little waste basket at the drug store and thought it would work perfect for the semi translucent engines. First I used a piece of painters tape to mark off the length and then stuck it to the waste basket.
Next I cut it out with my dremel then used my belt sander and a utility knife to smooth it out.
I cut out the plastic piece that was on the falcon then I used my gas stove top to get the new peice hot and bend it to a better suited radius for my falcon and then vuala!
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Next I cut it out with my dremel then used my belt sander and a utility knife to smooth it out.
I cut out the plastic piece that was on the falcon then I used my gas stove top to get the new peice hot and bend it to a better suited radius for my falcon and then vuala!
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Jaitea
Master Member
......Ummm, there is another thread were similar topics are being discussed....New BMF Coming......started wayyyyyy back in June
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Thanks man. I actually post to that thread too. Not to sound like a jerk, but you should note this thread is an actual conversion and build and the engine vent question was actually posted here first.
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