I need all the help I can get - first fully 3d printed prop for production

CaylePhoto

Member

• Jul 20, 2014

• #1

Working on a prop that Eventually I will make and sell full scale versions of. I have no clue what im doing other then the fact that I will figure it out as I go along.

Im starting of small and once I get the small version right I will go full scale.

Here is a picture of the prop I am working on as well as the 3d file.








so my first question ....... how do i finish out this print so it will make a decent first cast........ there are some holes and minor damage areas. i know bondo is out because of the fibre's is there a clay i can use ??? what would you do to fiish it out for casting..........

....I have considered making a mold as is........casting.........then finishing the molded part up........and making a final mold.........but i still need to fill in the holes

 

I

IEDBOUNTYHUNTER

Sr Member

• Jul 20, 2014

• #2

First off I wouldn't bother using that. if you can print another one I would try printing it with out the raft. it looks like you split it in half and if so if its flat no need to use a raft. Also sometimes you got to for lack of better way of saying it is play around with it. try printing it in a different position. I had one part that refused to print it fought me. so I tried printing it in another orientation and that worked great. its all about trial and error. you have to try other things. it also looks like you may need to level the table before you print again.

Im not saying you cant fix this one. but if you have the option to print it again you might get a better print. also if you want I have access to a higher rez machine I could have it printed for you for a small fee.


Al

 

CaylePhoto

Member

• Jul 20, 2014

• #3

the bed is level the strange pattern on barrel is because it bevels out and gets bigger towards the end.

I will print a second one for casting however I decided to go ahead and repair it(see what I could learn). And discovered a great way to batch holes and hide seems

Use a torch and filament to fill in holes and hide seems.....

be very very light handed and turn the power down you can easily destroy parts if you are not careful.

use straight filiment or at least kind of straight stuff. Use the vent hole to carefully bend it if its a hard to get to place I dragged my filament into a sheet as i melted it seemed to go on best that way. It gets thin enough to heat the pla underneath it to bond that way.

Be very aware of the direction of the vent hole on the torch..... and when you forget use ice and water lots of ice and water



before sanding


After sanding


and colored in so you can see how it blends......... i used files it would look better with finer sanding but im just testing the idea

 

CaylePhoto

Member

• Jul 22, 2014

• #4

Im looking for a way to finish this print out .... With oils using paint thinner fumes. is there a clay good for casting that I can use to finish this out?

 

Gordon Gekko

Sr Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Jul 22, 2014

• #5

You didn't mention what printer you are using, but I would say you really need to work on adjusting your print settings. There really is no reason to start with such a rough print.

 

zookone

Well-Known Member

• Jul 22, 2014

• #6

I would use milliput or bondo. Bondo doesn't have fibers in it. I think you are thinking of fiberglass with resin.

 

CaylePhoto

Member

• Jul 23, 2014

• #7

Ty for the tips!! I'll try the bondo today. The printer is a qu-bd 2 up. The print is at a .2mm layer height. And as of right now the bed Wobblies really bad.... Waiting on bearings to get in to fix that then I'll try again.

 

CaylePhoto

Member

• Aug 4, 2014

• #8

Upgraded a lot on my printer.... New bearings, sturdy mounts, heat syncs, filament guide, extruder fan, and pulleys.... I'm currently awaiting a z rod coupler and ceramic tape. Also considering gluing parts of my gantry.... At least until I can successfully print a new one. Lots of learning with the qubd two up..... Printers dodgy at best.... However once upgraded the quality can be quite nice, and I couldn't have budgeted any other printer.

 

Pro Mod

Sr Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Aug 4, 2014

• #9

Have you considered cutting the file into sections so that the barrel and chamber stand vertically for printing?
Doing it that way you should greatly reduce the amount of post finishing required.
Personally I would break it down into component parts which can be cleaned up far more easily than what you have now.
RP is a great process, but just because you can print something in one piece doesn’t necessarily mean you should.
Please don't think I'm having a go at your efforts but as an industrial modelmaker of nearly 40 years I know how difficult it is to clean things like this up.
Looking forward to seeing how this progresses.

 

CaylePhoto

Member

• Aug 4, 2014

• #10

Cool .... Yea I was planning on printing the barrel that way and will do the chamber as we'll ( thanks to you're advice). Thanks to you're comment I'm starting to think more so I can work less. I'll post pics as I go along. Ty

 

CaylePhoto

Member

• Mar 8, 2017

• #11

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CaylePhoto

Member

• Mar 8, 2017

• #12

On to molding my first attempt (pre finish) was a wonderful disaster. I painted on latex then attempted a plaster of Paris jacket....which I pored before it started to thicken and it leaked everywhere........ I rushed and mopped up the mess with paper towels......then had a thought and slapped the paper towels on the rubber mold .....

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CaylePhoto

Member

• Aug 12, 2017

• #13

Printed a 2nd one out and finished it today!! New printer resolution = far better quality!


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