Fallout 3 T-45D Power Armor Helmet - first build :)
- Thread starter PixelFlames
- Start date
PixelFlames
New Member
Re: Fallout 3 Brotherhood of steel T- 45D Replica Build - Need some advice.
Thanks, I've been doing some research on how to make it look cool and i cant wait to start painting.
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Thanks, I've been doing some research on how to make it look cool and i cant wait to start painting.
Thanks, I've been doing some research on how to make it look cool and i cant wait to start painting.
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Thanks, I've been doing some research on how to make it look cool and i cant wait to start painting.
PixelFlames
New Member
Re: Fallout 3 Brotherhood of steel T- 45D Replica Build - Need some advice.
I know lol however this is a very budget build and my filler is up XD. i'll see what i can do maybe ill use the putty from the detailing to patch up all the little holes. problem is i fill it then when i sand, because its such a thin layer of body filler it only makes new cracks and holes
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maybe i should paint it some primer and then see what stands out before i move on.
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do you think the pitted areas will look any good with matt black painted in them then rubbed off to out line?
I know lol however this is a very budget build and my filler is up XD. i'll see what i can do maybe ill use the putty from the detailing to patch up all the little holes. problem is i fill it then when i sand, because its such a thin layer of body filler it only makes new cracks and holes
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maybe i should paint it some primer and then see what stands out before i move on.
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do you think the pitted areas will look any good with matt black painted in them then rubbed off to out line?
PixelFlames
New Member
Re: Fallout 3 Brotherhood of steel T- 45D Replica Build - Need some advice.
You might be right i might need another layer or 2 of body putty This is an example of the detailing i want to add to my helmet. the guy calls it Multiput its similar to gun gum that is used on exhausts. I'm not sure if its epoxy putty but epoxy putty comes in TINY 10g amounts for EXPENSIVE prices. any idea what else I can use. Maybe i could try and mold the body putty or stick wire and steel bits to it using the glue gun... I'm going to give my helmet a coat of primer next week and try a few things ill post back on my progress.
You might be right i might need another layer or 2 of body putty This is an example of the detailing i want to add to my helmet. the guy calls it Multiput its similar to gun gum that is used on exhausts. I'm not sure if its epoxy putty but epoxy putty comes in TINY 10g amounts for EXPENSIVE prices. any idea what else I can use. Maybe i could try and mold the body putty or stick wire and steel bits to it using the glue gun... I'm going to give my helmet a coat of primer next week and try a few things ill post back on my progress.
drjag
Well-Known Member
Re: Fallout 3 Brotherhood of steel T- 45D Replica Build - Need some advice.
If it's epoxy putty your looking for, you don't want to use the 10g pieces because their designed to patch holes and not for sculpting. If you live in the UK, Milliput is the stuff you want; I use it all the time and it's amazing for sculpting, plus it sand beautifully. If you live in the US, a product called Apoxie Sculpt is what you want to use; it's identical to Milliput but just a different colour and comes in pots instead of sticks. They can be manipulated with water which makes them really good for sculpting unlike any other product.
I hope this info clear things up.
View attachment 353982You might be right i might need another layer or 2 of body putty
If it's epoxy putty your looking for, you don't want to use the 10g pieces because their designed to patch holes and not for sculpting. If you live in the UK, Milliput is the stuff you want; I use it all the time and it's amazing for sculpting, plus it sand beautifully. If you live in the US, a product called Apoxie Sculpt is what you want to use; it's identical to Milliput but just a different colour and comes in pots instead of sticks. They can be manipulated with water which makes them really good for sculpting unlike any other product.
I hope this info clear things up.
PixelFlames
New Member
Re: Fallout 3 Brotherhood of steel T- 45D Replica Build - Need some advice.
Ok I have decided. The only supplier of Milliputty in South Africa I can find is selling 110g at a price just a tiny bit cheaper than a kg of body putty. So far i have 350g of body putty on my helmet. I have decided to buy the kg of body putty instead and give my helmet a more generous coating and try to mold my detailing onto the helmet. I will use thick wire and maybe a tube around it to make the handles on the sides of the visor and the wiring going down the side.
The first layer of body putty have given me a good idea of where my pep isn't solid enough and where i will have constant cracking problems. The worst one being the part i made myself where the pipes connect to the rear, the curved top of it is fine but the bottom is basically cardboard brushing against cardboard. I tried to pour what resin i had left in there but it just wasn't enough.
My first plan would be to pour more resin or even make some rondo mix. However though I don't have anymore resin. so my next idea is to stick gluegun to a small strips of hardboard and glue them to the inside as the gluegun wont fit into the hole. I don't want to remove it or open it because what my resin did do was make it stick solidly to the neck of my helmet.
This will probably happen around Thursday so if anyone has some advice please share.
Ok I have decided. The only supplier of Milliputty in South Africa I can find is selling 110g at a price just a tiny bit cheaper than a kg of body putty. So far i have 350g of body putty on my helmet. I have decided to buy the kg of body putty instead and give my helmet a more generous coating and try to mold my detailing onto the helmet. I will use thick wire and maybe a tube around it to make the handles on the sides of the visor and the wiring going down the side.
The first layer of body putty have given me a good idea of where my pep isn't solid enough and where i will have constant cracking problems. The worst one being the part i made myself where the pipes connect to the rear, the curved top of it is fine but the bottom is basically cardboard brushing against cardboard. I tried to pour what resin i had left in there but it just wasn't enough.
My first plan would be to pour more resin or even make some rondo mix. However though I don't have anymore resin. so my next idea is to stick gluegun to a small strips of hardboard and glue them to the inside as the gluegun wont fit into the hole. I don't want to remove it or open it because what my resin did do was make it stick solidly to the neck of my helmet.
This will probably happen around Thursday so if anyone has some advice please share.
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PixelFlames
New Member
Re: Fallout 3 Brotherhood of steel T- 45D Replica Build - Need some advice.
New putty is doing pretty well. Still haven't figured out how to do little edges but i figured i will let what i have done dry and sand it down and then tomorrow try to build the neat little edges and fill the low spots.
On the rear of the helmet i have stuck 2 little hardboard pieces on with tons of glue gun and the bit of flex which caused the cracking is now gone.
The new body filler seems to be more like an epoxy based compound which gets much harder than the black spot putty i put on the first coat. The white color is also a nice tell for when I'm sanding too deep and the black layer comes out.
New putty is doing pretty well. Still haven't figured out how to do little edges but i figured i will let what i have done dry and sand it down and then tomorrow try to build the neat little edges and fill the low spots.
On the rear of the helmet i have stuck 2 little hardboard pieces on with tons of glue gun and the bit of flex which caused the cracking is now gone.
The new body filler seems to be more like an epoxy based compound which gets much harder than the black spot putty i put on the first coat. The white color is also a nice tell for when I'm sanding too deep and the black layer comes out.
PixelFlames
New Member
Re: Fallout 3 Brotherhood of steel T- 45D Replica Build - Need some advice.
I had a little trouble with the symmetry of it all. So i drew a couple of guidelines and now its a little lopsided the other way. haha
Im pretty happy with what i accomplished today! I will only be able to work on this baby again on monday as my weekend is booked. I will be concentrating on getting that right cheek puffed up and getting the visor done as well as moving over the top a bit. The helmet is starting to get a little weight with all of the putty.
I had a little trouble with the symmetry of it all. So i drew a couple of guidelines and now its a little lopsided the other way. hahaIm pretty happy with what i accomplished today! I will only be able to work on this baby again on monday as my weekend is booked. I will be concentrating on getting that right cheek puffed up and getting the visor done as well as moving over the top a bit. The helmet is starting to get a little weight with all of the putty.
PixelFlames
New Member
Re: Fallout 3 Brotherhood of steel T- 45D Replica Build - Need some advice.
The face is symmetrical yay and almost smooth. I'm getting somewhere. Moving slowly but steadily.a bit more sanding needed ans a hole or 2 to fill. and then ill continue with the center line and then up to the top and sides of the helmet i'm hoping that will go quite quickly. i will do the rear and neck piece last.
The face is symmetrical yay and almost smooth. I'm getting somewhere. Moving slowly but steadily.a bit more sanding needed ans a hole or 2 to fill. and then ill continue with the center line and then up to the top and sides of the helmet i'm hoping that will go quite quickly. i will do the rear and neck piece last.
PixelFlames
New Member
PixelFlames
New Member
Re: Fallout 3 Brotherhood of steel T- 45D Replica Build - Need some advice.
I want the helmet painted and assembled by the end of the week.
Here's a log of everything I did since my last post.
I finnished the bondo work(Mostly i keep changing and filling holes all the time.
The edging on the rebreathers and pipe areas were cardboard halos i glueguned to the helmet and filled behind it still 2 to go where the pipes will connect.
The nostroles were big wooden beads i stuck to the sides of the nose with gluegun and put bondo around them.
I had to take great care to wheel them out and leave a hole. I broke the left side twice and wasted a lot of body filler.
The hinge on the forehead was body filler i applied thickly and sanded it down to give you some small idea of a hinge shape.
and finally the handles are offcuts of thick wire that came from a mesh that i bended to match each other and then sleeved them in rubber tubes. I then drilled holes in the viser and hammered them in. Right side is solid. while the left was a bit of a loose fit. I had to pour gluegun into the hole and then push the handle into place.
I am happy to admit both handles support the helmets weight.
oh and the battle scarring was made with an exacto knife.
I want the helmet painted and assembled by the end of the week.
Here's a log of everything I did since my last post.
I finnished the bondo work(Mostly i keep changing and filling holes all the time.
The edging on the rebreathers and pipe areas were cardboard halos i glueguned to the helmet and filled behind it still 2 to go where the pipes will connect.
The nostroles were big wooden beads i stuck to the sides of the nose with gluegun and put bondo around them.
I had to take great care to wheel them out and leave a hole. I broke the left side twice and wasted a lot of body filler.
The hinge on the forehead was body filler i applied thickly and sanded it down to give you some small idea of a hinge shape.
and finally the handles are offcuts of thick wire that came from a mesh that i bended to match each other and then sleeved them in rubber tubes. I then drilled holes in the viser and hammered them in. Right side is solid. while the left was a bit of a loose fit. I had to pour gluegun into the hole and then push the handle into place.
I am happy to admit both handles support the helmets weight.
oh and the battle scarring was made with an exacto knife.
Attachments
PixelFlames
New Member
Here's a quick update of what i worked on this afternoon and Friday evening.
i put some perforated mesh inside the nostrils and rivets all over the helmet.
I added a lamp and a mount for the target and torch which i will be made so it can swivel and light up the ground in front of you.
About the paint.
I chose metal cast color because i was scared the chrome would look out of place and reveal way too many imperfections. I'm happy with the shade of the silver however it seems to be a bit...glittery. I might paint it over with some super gloss enamel and give it another spray of silver but I don't know how it will result. Perhaps i should just be happy with what I've got.
I also bought some satin black which I will work into the edges on some places after the detailing is done and the aim and torch has been added.
