Back To The Future Part 2. 2015 Jacket WIP

cavx

Master Member
I have been working on and off on this for quite some time and have decided to post this as I finally am making some progress and thought I would share.

After reading all the posts about casting latex in a light diffuser, I thought there had to be an easier way to get the diamond pattern on the vest portion of this jacket.

A few years back (for another project), I discovered a PVC "Pyramid" matting in my local hardware store. The matting they carried was grey and for that other project, grey was fine. Clear would have been perfect :) When I googled the stuff, I discovered that it comes in a few different colours including this nice red.

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Anyway, the company would not order in red for me to buy just 2 metres. The only way they would order this in for me would be for me to buy an entire roll (10m I think) at about $20/ meter. Not that $200 is a big outlay, just what would I do with the other 8m? I knew then I would be up for the challenge of changing the colour later on. As turned out, when I went to buy my matting, I discovered that they only had two meters left on the roll. I have not seen this stuff in store since. The matting was rolled up and left to sit for while whilst I carried on other projects.

The first step was to design the vest portion that actually fits me. I searched on line for patterns but could not find one that would suit, so I used a photographers vest I had in the wardrobe as a base for the pattern and modded that to be closer the shape I wanted. I made my first wearable version out of card stock so I could trim and mod various parts before transferring the pattern onto the PVC matting.

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The diamond pattern on the vest is turned 45 degrees and this unfortunately wastes allot of material. So I got just one vest from 2m (920mm wide) of this matting.

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The frustrating part about this is that the pyramids themselves are not "square" rather slightly rectangular and this throws off the symmetry. I laid this out 4 times before asking my wife for help. She suggested that I line the centre of the collar up and cop the error that would occur towards to the waist.

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So after marking out the back and the two fronts, I now had the start of my vest.

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I tacked it together using some 50mm webbing (left over from the TK build) and hot glue. It kind of allowed me to test fit but broke one side so i was left to look for another way to join it together. Then I decided to test so scraps with PVC pipe solvent cement I had in the garage. SUCCESS! After 20 minutes, the two parts were fused.

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Maximum bond time is 24 hours, so the vest sat clamped for about 2 days before I did my next test fit. It won't break now :)

So onto the colour change. A while back I discovered this paint.

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This is the paint I used with the two small panels that will become the pockets. The paint dries fast (about 20 minutes) and can not be removed with mineral turpentine. You have to use acetone to remove the stuff. This point will come in handy soon.

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So I quickly rigged up a spray rack to proceeded to paint my grey vest red.

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Nice and red, but a little too clean. This photo was taken at about 2PM is full sun.

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This is what it tends to look like under artificial lighting.

Now back to the acetone thing. Because turps won't remove the red paint, my plan to make this jacket look "dirty" is to mist coat the vest in a more traditional black spray paint that can be cleaned up using turps. I am hoping that as I wipe the black sprayed surface that it leaves the black in the grooves and only cleans the tops of the pyramids. That is the plan anyway. That stage will need to be completed before I attach the sleeves.

So after I 'dirty this up", the next up is designing the sleeves. I want these to have the bellows so they can extend.
 
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You should pay attention to how much space there is between the pocket and the outer edge of the jacket where the grey strip starts and where the bellow of the arm begins.
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You should pay atyention to how much space there is between the pocket and the outer edge of the jacket where the grey strip starts and where the bellow of the arm begins.

Thanks MitasTouch. To do this means I might have to slim the pocket a bit more as I have had to make the arm holes of vest portion quite large to actually fit my arms/shoulders.
 
Any progress on the jacket cavx?

Unfortunately not. Time it seems is not on my side with other projects (work and life) taking priority over this one. Shame too because this week end is ComicCon. At least I will have my shoes with lights working.
 
Made a start on the bellows for the sleeves.

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Might be able to convince the darling other to get the sewing machine out as I don't want to hand stitch all these.
 
Not a lot done since the last post, however today I had a MASSIVE breakthrough.

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So apparently the real 2015 jacket made back in 1989 was made from latex. Here we are now in 2015 and there are many new and exciting materials that were not available back then. Yeah I get the "screen accuracy" thing, but why continue to watch old B&W when you can watch stunning High Definition.

This sample is of a new silicone rubber that I poured onto a section of light diffuser. I have laid it on my PC monitor and generated a red back light to give it colour. That is why you may be able to see pixels.

1.The plastic panel has small rounded hollows, and so the pour results in a negative of that, which is small raises.
2.Because it is silicone, no release agent needed. It just peeled right off.
3.You can apparently tint this stuff with a pigment.
4. Silicone (and elastomers) will "bite in" to cloth making the rubber "sewable".
5. Silicone (and elastomers) will stick to themselved if poured and let to set up. So long as no relase agent has been used, it bonds hard and won't come away without tearing after a certain time frame.
6. I need to confirm, but it looks like I can source large sheets of light diffuser - large enough to make a back panel out of a single piece.

So the grand plan is now to -

1. Purchase the diffuser.
2. Purcahse the red tint.
3. Mix pour a thin layer of red silicone onto the textured side of the diffuser.
4. Run a screed over the surface to leave just enough silicone to fill the dips.
5. Let that set.
6. Lay black cloth over the sheet and keep it pulled tight.
7. Mix black silicone and pour that over the black cloth.
8. Let that set up and I will have a sewable, flexible textured rubber sheet.

As Marty would say "PERFECT!"
 

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I did a 2nd silicone test tonight. This is looking really promising, so I will post a photo in the morning.

So this is my first test from the other night.

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And a close up.

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And test 2 curing now. Sorry for the slightly blurred image, yes it is RED! I bought a special pigment made for silicone.

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It looks like I have actually found the original sheets of light diffuser.

[h=4]Product Data[/h]Prism size: 5mm x 5mm
Prism configuration: Female at a 45o axis
Prism depth: 1.8mm
Max width: 1270mm
Max length: 2540mm
Resistance to U.V. (acrylic): Excellent

The beauty of silicone is that it does not stick to anything except itself, so I can pour a entire sheet of this.

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Get outta town! Wow thats awesome :cool
Man you're really killin it with the challenging 2015 rubber parts, can i say the timing is excellent? Haha :thumbsup
 
Get outta town! Wow thats awesome :cool
Man you're really killin it with the challenging 2015 rubber parts, can i say the timing is excellent? Haha :thumbsup

Thanks man. Yeah well it is 2015 :)

If you think that is good, check this out :)

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This under natural light which is pretty close to the colour I used on the PVC pyramid mat.

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And with the flash on.

The key differences are -
1. more accurate shape (it is the same type of diffuser they used)
2. the parts are both tough and flexible where the PVC vest portion was stiff and why I had to cut out arm holes as big as I did which forced the sleeves to be way over sized. This stuff is extremely flexible and will bend like a fabric. I think it is even possible to get the gathering look his screen used jacket has. The sample part is probably about the right size for a pocket.
3. gluing is easy because the ONLY stuff that sticks to silicone is silicone :)

So test #3 will involve at the addition of black cloth. Stay tuned.

So the ONLY question which way does the orientation of the pattern go? Looking on axis at my sample the so called 5mm x 5mm bumps do seem wider that they are tall in one way and taller than they are wide when turned 90 degrees. I am sure MitasTouch had made mention of this about the MP Jacket.
 

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