3D printing - T-800 Bust.

PBraddock

Active Member
Hi guys, I've finally begun working on this project. A while ago I bought a pretty average and overpriced scan of what appears to be an M1 endoskull, or possibly a recast one. Either way, it's good enough as a basis for remodeling. I also have a vinyl endo I'm looking at for better reference of some of the detail that's a bit lost in the scan.

Early days here, so far the jaw is symmetrical, and still missing some stuff, I'll do back and do the non symmetrical details later also.

Teeth are place holders, I'll be using synthetic resin dental items.

This will be printed using my Ultimaker 2

Not sure how much of the bust I'll do, I want more than just the skull, but I don't want to just copy what sideshow, or others have done with the T-800. I quite like the extended bust of the Sideshow T-600 though, incorporating part of the shoulder assembly.

I'm taking some creative licence on certain details I feel a too soft and not defined well enough, such as sharpening up the top prongs on the nasal cavity.



endo_ZB_01.jpg
 
Yep, that's the idea. Preserve and replicate the original design as closely as possible, while correcting the inherent wonkyness and accidental asymmetry of what was a hand sculpted prop.
 
Hi guys, Small update... working in the main skull piece now, and also, I have a question about scale. I've read the M1 original is under sized, and any vinyl casts taken from that, may even be smaller. I have a vinyl cast piece, and the eyeballs that come with it, are 23.5mm in diameter, which is correct for a human eye. Also, I bought some dental acrylic teeth to use, which also appear to be a good size match, so, just wondering, where the scale issue comes from? Is it a comparison to the SS endo, or some other point of reference?

Since I'm 3D printing, I can upscale easily enough, but from what I've measured, the Thai cast endo seems to be pretty much what it should be.

endo_wip.jpg
 
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Hi guys, Small update... working in the main skull piece now, and also, I have a question about scale. I've read the M1 original is under sized, and any vinyl casts taken from that, may even be smaller. I have a vinyl cast piece, and the eyeballs that come with it, are 23.5mm in diameter, which is correct for a human eye. Also, I bought some dental acrylic teeth to use, which also appear to be a good size match, so, just wondering, where the scale issue comes from? Is it a comparison to the SS endo, or some other point of reference?

Since I'm 3D printing, I can upscale easily enough, but from what I've measured, the Thai cast endo seems to be pretty much what it should be.

View attachment 357834

Never compare anything with the Sideshow endo skull, it's not screen accurate to any degree. The M1 is undersized(compared to the screen used skulls) yes, but not equally. The larger surfaces are warped while the smaller areas like the eyeballs are pretty much perfect.

Your jaw looks a bit off... took some close ups of my M1:
jaw3.jpgjaw2.jpgjaw1.jpg

Overall it still looks fantastic :thumbsup keep up the good work :)
 
Thanks for the great ref, the scan I have is from an M1, or a cast of it, not sure, but your M1 looks nice and sharp. There will be some differences in what I'm doing, I'm deliberately sharpening certain areas that are a bit soft. Also, you can probably see looking at your M1, the symmetry is way off, even those triangular upright parts are slightly different in shape, and the spaces between them and the "gum" are are different on both sides. so mine will be a symmetrical average of both sides. I think the main area that makes mine look off right now is the length of those vertical side pieces, and other slight variance in detail. I haven't added the hinge bolt detail yet.

I'd prefer to do a T1 style port cover also.

Cheers!

It won't be exactly screen accurate, but should be pretty convincing unless scrutinised.
Never compare anything with the Sideshow endo skull, it's not screen accurate to any degree. The M1 is undersized(compared to the screen used skulls) yes, but not equally. The larger surfaces are warped while the smaller areas like the eyeballs are pretty much perfect.

Your jaw looks a bit off... took some close ups of my M1:


Overall it still looks fantastic :thumbsup keep up the good work :)
 
Well since you are doing a symmetrical skull it immediately won't be screen accurate :p

Why settle for a T1 port cover when you could do both versions ;) hehe
Excited to see this progress and if you want photos of something let me know and I'll see what I can do :D
 
Looks very promising, do you have your own 3d printer or are you outsourcing it ?

PS. let me know if you need help, I've got quite a few reference pix
 
Hi Jamie, thanks... I have an Ultimaker 2, I think it'll be great for this, see my site for some of my stuff http://www.paul-braddock.com/3d-prints/

Did you make your clavicle struts, or source them elsewhere? I'm hoping to do a bust, similar in layout to the t-600 from sideshow. I can print the parts if need be.

Also, what scale is your skull? is it M1 scale or something else?

Cheers,

Paul.




Looks very promising, do you have your own 3d printer or are you outsourcing it ?

PS. let me know if you need help, I've got quite a few reference pix
 
All the parts I've done are pretty much custom cast, apart from the 8mm rod ends, the head is a little bigger than a M1, there are quite a few versions out there, even the true movie origials differ slightly between T1 and T2, the picture is a M1 on the left, the right is very simlar to the one I'm using, for a bust setup though I think it makes little diference.
 

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Thanks Jamie, gosh, those are some wonky looking endos. I started cutting in those top panels and ports last night... keeping it nice and straight though.



All the parts I've done are pretty much custom cast, apart from the 8mm rod ends, the head is a little bigger than a M1, there are quite a few versions out there, even the true movie origials differ slightly between T1 and T2, the picture is a M1 on the left, the right is very simlar to the one I'm using, for a bust setup though I think it makes little diference.
 
Very nice resolution on your printer. I have a cheap DaVinci printer that works for doing prototypes but have not had it long enough to get used to what settings work best. What settings do you use for your printer to get strong and detailed prints? I can adjust the speed, shell thickness, layer size, and speed on mine. Just haven't gotten the right combo to get the best results yet.
 
Very nice resolution on your printer. I have a cheap DaVinci printer that works for doing prototypes but have not had it long enough to get used to what settings work best. What settings do you use for your printer to get strong and detailed prints? I can adjust the speed, shell thickness, layer size, and speed on mine. Just haven't gotten the right combo to get the best results yet.

First off, T800 stuff looks class.

And as for Saber Concepts, I'm not preaching to be any type of guru, I've only recently got myself a Da Vinci. However I have been able to do prints using Repetier Host (with Slic3r) to create my sliced files before importing into XYZware, it's not a terribly difficult process. You still of course need to get the settings right, but it opens up more of the world and enables more and varied shapes to be quickly sliced as opposed to XYZwares very slow processes. I'll expand on this if anyone wants to know more, but Im at work unfortunately! I'm just now learning what works best with my printers capabilities etc. Great hobby!
 
working on the top of the skull cap last night, still lots of detail missing, still haven't touched the forehead vents. Rendered in Keyshot.

Guys, I usually prints at 0.06mm layer height, no fill, and 1.2mm walls. For the endo, being large parts I may use 0.08mm

endo_ks.jpg
 
Are you going to do the chip housing as well ? or is that just a bit you have'nt renered yet ? either way it's looking good. Just curious as well, how long do you think the print time whould be on this ?
 
Hi Jamie, I probably wont do that, but rather than carve panel lines in, I've been making separate pieces so the panel gaps are nice and clean, and haven't finished the cap yet. I don't have enough reference to do justice to the chip housing, and don't want to guess any of it. it was fudged for the close up in T2 as I'm sure you know, and the SS versions have an oversized port. The other reason I'm not planning to do it is time, I'd like to get a version completed soon... I can go back later and do it I guess.

Based on larger parts I've printed in the past, I'd expect something like the face plate to take around 15 hours, cranium, maybe 20 hours etc. I like to print at higher res, and lower speed for more reliable printing, better surface and less clean up.



Are you going to do the chip housing as well ? or is that just a bit you have'nt renered yet ? either way it's looking good. Just curious as well, how long do you think the print time whould be on this ?
 
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