3D printing - T-800 Bust.

Beagle Bill over on the Endo builders club has done some realy nice work remastering a skull and did the "true sized" port as well, not sure I think you have to be a member to see the full thread but anyway it's http://www.endobuildersclub.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9 if you can't get on to it here are a few pix from his posts.......
 

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Thanks, that's great ref... still not 100% clear to me though is the angle of the chamber? It's not directly straight down as in the diagram, but probably perpendicular to the angle of the opening, raked inwards towards the nose.

I've tried signing up to that forum before with no reply... I thought it was dead? why's it so secretive?
 
I'm still wanting a BeagleBill skull :p

PBraddock said:
Thanks, that's great ref... still not 100% clear to me though is the angle of the chamber? It's not directly straight down as in the diagram, but probably perpendicular to the angle of the opening, raked inwards towards the nose.

I've tried signing up to that forum before with no reply... I thought it was dead? why's it so secretive?
Click to expand...

Skynet is watching, always. ;)
 
Seems hard to get on for some reason not sure why, pretty sure "endoskeleton1" on here is the admin/founder for the site, if you PM him might be worth getting on that way, fairly small following but a great reference forum. As to the head this is how I made mine with the curve of the skull setting the angle of the CPU port, not sure if this helps
 

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Looking realy nice.. Few questions, are you doing T1, T2 or best of both ? and how much in the way of max detail are you going for ? I think it's great that you taking the time to fix up these bits, I seen other versions 3D printed and they are good, but just not quite there, sort of thing, to my eye, so I can't wait to see your finished version printed.
 
Thanks Guys. I'm using both Maya, and ZBrush. Zbrush is great for doing clean Boolean cutouts and trims.

Jamie, I want as much detail as you'd see in any of the endo replica busts you can buy. The only printed endo I've seen is this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7boJ2SDtrWg This seems to be the model everyone prints, and it's pretty awful. The model itself isn't at all accurate, I'd say it was eyeballed from images, its low res, faceted, the shapes and details are all wrong. In addition to the problems with the design, the way people are printing it is not conducive to a good result either. It should be printed in parts, with each part oriented to achieve the best print for that specific part.

I have a long way to go with mine, but it's not worth doing unless, at the end, it looks like a legit replica.

Other than the cranial port differences, what other differences are there between T1 and T2? I prefer the port covers of T1

Cheers.

endo_03.jpg
 
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Totaly agree... This is exactly my point, the 3d stuff is clever and all, but if it has the tech has the detail capability, why not do is as dead on as you can, props to you for doing a better version.
 
Yep, the model I linked to doesn't have the detail or resolution to begin with, so printing it high res would be of no benefit, but that's not a reflection on the tech, or where consumer printers are right now, it's a reflection on the quality of that particular model.

Early adopters of 3D printing were more interested in the tech, and were satisfied with printing useless trinkets, but as 3D printers find there way into the hands of artists, engineers, prop makers, modelers etc, you'll see an exponential increase in quality.

Legacy Effects print a lot of their practical suits and robots etc, admittedly on high end expensive printers, but the resolution of these machines is now matched by consumer printers, it's just a bit more work to get good consistent trouble free prints out of them... and we're also limited by build volume, unless you break models up into parts, which is advisable anyway.



Jamie Staff said:
Totaly agree... This is exactly my point, the 3d stuff is clever and all, but if it has the tech has the detail capability, why not do is as dead on as you can, props to you for doing a better version.
Click to expand...
 
I just thought of something, which you have probably already thought of....
This is a model where you want the edges to be as sharp as possible since you lose a lot of sharpness when you paint the skull and such ;) :)
 
I'm sure you probably already know, but for those who don't most of the mini details in the parts of the head were kit bashed from the Bandai 1/48 German 88mm Flak 18 model kit.
 

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DUDE!! This is sick! I can't tell you how awesome this looks! I'm a huge endo-nerd so I almost blew a load seeing that last pic with the lambert.:love
I'm sculpting one of these IRL and getting it symmetrical is close to impossible by human hand, so this is truly the right way to go about it.
Will you be offering prints or casts of this when you are finished, cause I would die for a copy!
 
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Thanks Jamie, yep, I have those pics, some of this detail varies from what I have in the Thai cast I'm using for ref, I don't have it in front of me right now, but from memory, those centre green, and pink parts aren't there?

I had them in originally, then took them out, but I can add them back in.

Jamie Staff said:
I'm sure you probably already know, but for those who don't most of the mini details in the parts of the head were kit bashed from the Bandai 1/48 German 88mm Flak 18 model kit.
Click to expand...
 
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