Fallout 3 Mini Nuke Build - 3D Printed Prototypes and Final WIP - IMAGE HEAVY

Gombabomb

Active Member
Very excited to finally get this project to a point that is worth sharing... just took pictures today of the pile of prototypes, fails, and good prints that have been accumulating and taking up all the space on my bench.
Was given a 3D printer to test out last spring after moving as an opportunity to learn something new and improve my skills/toolset and help to me pay my rent and survive (like ya' do). Didn't know a thing about 3D modeling and had to get familiar with that before getting up to steam and printing anything worthwhile... but the first thing I ambitiously tried to model was the Mini Nuke from Fallout, one of my favorite series and one of those items that you see in game and instantly want to have on your shelf. There were plenty of places you could snag a free papercraft version, but they were just unfolded game models of the same resolution/polycount. While still cool, I though it would be more awesome to have one that looked "real".
mininuke_foundscreenshot1.pngmininuke_foundscreenshot2.png

Seemed simple enough, but proved too complex to continue with early on with such little experience and getting to know the program so it got put on hold until I had enough "aha" moments (and people saying "shut up and take my money") to try again. Went through many iterations and size/proportion tweaks before it looked anywhere near right...
f3_nukeprint_proto_beforeafter.jpg
On the left is an unsanded PLA print and a sanded primed one of the nukes (this was probably the 3rd "version" since starting and the second version to make it as far as printing). It was modeled in tinkercad from scratch using a couple of screenshots and done entirely by eye. Unfortunately that was more or less the smoothest tinkercad's non-scripted round shapes could manage... The one on right is after many hours with a heavy wood-rasp and back and forth sessions of high build filler-primer and sanding to eliminate the vertices and get a smooth surface (all of this was done sitting outside in the snow because I didn't want auto-body filler dust in my house and had no where else to work). This version was split into 3 parts: the body, the stabilizing ring, and the fins (x-shaped and slides in through bottom). Learned after the first print that had the body and fins together that it was hell to sand it with the fins sticking out without breaking them...because I broke them. Modeled the screws onto it (see on black one) which ended up completely sanded off... tried to fix by drilling holes to put real screws in but made them too big and was too frustrated to patch them, plus not entirely happy with overall shape and accuracy in places after finding better references... ended up tossing them both in the "i don't even" pile since other things had come up at the time.

After a few months and much more experience with tinkercad, decided to do another scratch redesign that was closer to the in game model but done in a way that would print easier and be less difficult to smooth and finally paint. Ended up redesigning two more times from scratch because I learned so much each time.
f3_nukeprint_whatwasithinkinghere.jpg
This was the next attempt, which looked moderately okay on screen but really off once printed. Also forgot to rescale it before printing so it was really small. Tried to make a more streamlined shape instead of an oval but it looked completely wrong. Only improvements were "countersunk" holes for inserting real screws, and making the turbine in the end. Because of the rounded nose and the complexities of the bottom it ended up being split into top and bottom (holding it together here).
Back to the drawing board!

f3_nukemodel2.jpg
As I made each version I would copy and paste it into a lineup to compare to the previous ones and work from there...
Leftmost is the early model that was printed, next to it is the newest one, and 3rd is the wonky one from above. Putting the one I'm working on in between to others helps me see where it needs to change. Thing on the right was a conglomerate of crap that I would copy-pasta parts onto to test.
f3_nukemodelnose.jpgf3_nukemodelturbine.jpg
Fixing the nose here. Showing turbine "fan" in bottom.

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Thing about tinkercad is I don't know how to use scripts so everything is assembled from modified primitives and negative shapes. And when combining and ungrouping multiple shapes it turns into something like this until poor tinkercad can process the horrifying number of shapes I burdened it with. :facepalm

f3_nukemodelfinalparts.jpg
Final version assembled, and all of the parts laid out. Time to get printing!

Was having endless technical trouble with the printer especially with the spool jamming and printing air halfway into builds... resolved by switching to higher quality filament. Now I could trust the printer to run unsupervised unlike before which is a major plus since all of the parts for this build totaled close to 12 hours (had to abort and reprint a couple parts here and there because settings were not right).

f3_nukeprint_slightproblem.jpg
So then operator error was the only major issue. Last part printed was the nose which I started before going to bed.. pried it off the plate in the morning and put the thing together and noticed something was not entirely right here...
f3_nukeprint_thatsbetter.jpg
Forgot I had scaled up the other parts slightly to make the dimensions nice even numbers. 3 Hours later the resized part was done.
f3_nukeprint_pileofbombs.jpgf3_nukeprint_side.jpgf3_nukeprint_finalunsanded.jpg
Here's the final version with a pile of prototypes and my horrible little workspace.
The stabilizing ring looks a little off proportion-wise in the photos because of the camera's barrel distortion... The first one is the best representation of the size. It ended up being a fraction over 7" high and 4" diameter (designed metric and had to scale to something nice and even in inches because reasons). The rocket in the background of the leftmost photo was a simpler print that I decided to test out the mini nuke's intended paints on as practice. Now to glue the two halves together and start sanding!

f3_nukeprint_lineup1.jpgf3_nukeprint_slightimprovement.jpg
Here's a lineup of the 3 versions for comparison (because one ain't enough and two is too low). And then the VERY first one I printed and "finished" compared to the final. Yes the paint is inexcusably bad and the wrong colors, trust me I'm better now haha. There's also a naval mine and a huge rocket from Loadout that you can kinda see in the works here too... Sea mine is a commission with a tight due date but the mini nuke will resume once that's shipped out.

More updates as they come. Lemmie know what you think! The first completely finished one already has a buyer but I plan on molding and slush casting the main body of it and printing the fins/ring/turbine for each new one to make it easier on me rather than smoothing all of the parts by hand for each one. This is my first detailed build log here and hope i'm doing it right... tried to be brief but failed miserably. With the next updates will try to let the pictures do the talking instead of building a wall of text. ha ha. : )

- Dreggs
 
Thanks! : D

Almost forgot... here's the turbine/fan bit:
f3_nukeprint_fanblade.jpg
Amazed that it printed without supports... have to figure out how in the hell to sand and paint it though ha ha.
 
Thanks Truro!

Primer-filler, sand, lather, rinse, repeat. Starting to smooth out finally... Here's how it's been going:
f3_nukeprint_backlit2.jpgf3_nukeprint_backlit1.jpg
After wood rasp/first primer coat/ sanded back down. Deep gouges and most ridges filled in. Just learned how much easier to see progress is with the clear PLA is compared to the black... especially when backlit!

f3_nukeprint_primer1.jpgf3_nukeprint_primer2.jpgf3_nukeprint_primer3.jpgf3_nukeprint_primerturbine.jpg
Many coats of primer/sanding later. Sizing up the turbine blades... will pop into the end when ready, very last step probably.

f3_nukeprint_almostthere2.jpgf3_nukeprint_almostthere3.jpgf3_nukeprint_almostthere1.jpg
Slowly making progress... still some prominent ridges/geometry going on but almost there. Next gluing the halves together and filling the seam, then back to primer/sanding again... Eventually adding screw-heads to the indented areas. Need to start the fins/ring too (just put together for photo). Once the main body of it is done and has the screws I'll make a mold so I can just slush the next ones instead of all this sanding nonsense. :unsure The fins/ring/turbines will still be printed for the next ones but those aren't as time consuming.
 
Great work! I always hoarded the mini nukes on a shelf in game. :lol I was thinking about all your sanding and how to make smoothing it quicker. I know that acetone vapor baths work for smoothing ABS prints, but for PLA prints I think you can use tetrahydrofuran or THF? Apparently you use the same process as acetone but with THF. Since there is a lot of surface area on the nuke it might be worth trying. Hope this helps, keep it up!
 
Thanks everyone. : )

The Kid, I recently was told about using THF... sounds promising but want to look into how hazardous it is first before getting a quantity of the stuff so I can figure out how to store it safely. Was glossing over an overview on how to use it for vapor smoothing and it is not particularly harmful (about the same as acetone) but very flammable in any quantity/saturation. Need to research a little more, still thanks.

Got a lot more done yesterday/last night:
f3_nukeprint_moreprimer.jpg
nth photo of both halves covered in primer.. but look! Smooth!

f3_nuke_seam.jpg
Glued 'n' screwed. Filled the seam and have to make it nice again but it's really coming along now.
The stabilizer ring has been sanded enough and is just about ready to mold after adding the rivets. Just a little more to do on the main body of it, touch-up type work, and a couple tiny screws to set (the ones by the fins). Then a some more primer, seal it, get it prepped and pour the mold. : )

Not entirely sure of the most sensible way to do the mold and thought about it a lot. Idea is that I'll be slush casting it for the most part... not sure if a one or two part mold would be best, or where to have the "sprue" for the the spot to pour the resin in...
I only have experience making one-part molds of 1 - 2" high sculptures and have molded and slush cast a mask once but that's it. Any advice or suggestions would go a long way.
 
More pictures. :p
Put it together for the first time after everything is adequately smooth... looked too good not to share.
f3_nuke_smooth1.jpgf3_nuke_smooth2.jpgf3_nuke_smooth3.jpgf3_nuke_smooth4.jpgf3_nuke_smooth5.jpg
Might end up tweaking and reprinting the stabilizer ring... the top part looks a little thin like it should come up to cover more of the bottom of the fins... other than that really happy with the whole thing.
 
Had to build up the seam more and sand/prime it a good deal until it was filled out and smooth again. Finally satisfied with the surface smoothness so onto molding!

Spent an embarrassing amount of time trying to build up the clay and make a mold box/wall last night/this morning. Was having trouble figuring out how to make the 2 part mold, split it horizontally or vertically, make a round retaining wall, use silicone most efficiently with least wasted space... ended up letting it sit while I got some sleep. Looked at it with fresh eyes and started over. Here's what we've got after several tries:
f3_nuke_goodenough.jpg
After too much trouble making a cardboard mold wall with the nuke embedded horizontally, decided to go with normal vertical orientation. Lots of searching for a tall cylindrical container that it would fit in and have enough space to make a thick enough mold at the widest point... had to sacrifice this swiss miss container that had miscellaneous supplies stored in it. Oh well. Took a can opener to the bottom and looks like a good enough start.

f3_nuke_clay1.jpg
Built up the clay outside of the container so there was room to work and could get the surface smooth and flush to the edges. Smoothed with rubbing alcohol, brush, and flat wedge-tipped... thing.

f3_nuke_clay2.jpg
Carefully nestled it down in from the top to avoid warping/coming away from the bomb. Had to go in and flatten out the edges to make it flush with the object and container wall. More rubbing alcohol/brushing/planing... then pressed the hex registration keys in again since they had warped.

Alcohol has evaporated by now, going to hit it with some ease-release and mix up the oomoo. Going with oomoo 30 instead of rebound because I don't have a local source for thi-vex or anything decent to make a mold shell with at the moment. Going to use some failed molds as filler and will probably end up "beveling" off some of the excess material at the top to reuse similarly.

Wish me luck as I have no idea what I'm doing. :facepalm
 
I'm throwing my money at the screen, but nothing's happening! TAKE MY WALLET, DAMN YOU!

How's that for a complement? :lol

Haha. Was having an off day and that was a laugh/encouragement I really needed. :lol

Definitely will do a run/made to order type offering with these once I've gotten the first cast painted and the whole finishing process down to a science. Still new here and not entirely sure how the junkyard works to be honest (plus not premium yet). Was planning on offering them for sale elsewhere (dunno if I can mention/link to my shop outside of junkyard, don't want to get in trouble).
 
Looks good!

Unless rules have changed, you don't have to be Premium to use the Junkyard. You can post wherever you're selling them as long as it's within the Junkyard. You couldn't post it in this thread, though you could link to the Junkyard thread.
 
Oops. Double post. : I
 

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Looks good!

Unless rules have changed, you don't have to be Premium to use the Junkyard. You can post wherever you're selling them as long as it's within the Junkyard. You couldn't post it in this thread, though you could link to the Junkyard thread.
Got that impression from reading through the junkyard update threads... looks like your're right but to post anything in the new "runs" part of the JY I'd need a premium. Considering it once I think I can cast and paint these fairly consistently.

Got some updates on the mold:
View attachment 300770View attachment 300771View attachment 300772
Tried to be clever about saving material... made a thick base phlange in the canister and let it cure. Wrangled it out and then glued on a cheap tupperware bin that was a good tapered shape. Used a failed mold as filler, mulched it up and poured it from a cup, didn't realize it clumped up and ended up dumping way too much out and getting bits all over :facepalm durr. Did a couple mix-and-pours in layers with the filler. Ran out of oomoo but there was enough coverage that I'm not particularly concerned. I think i'll keep the tupperware on while I slush just to avoid deformation.

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First half done, reg keys looking good. Since having to cut the canister to extricate the whole thing to remove the clay and glue the bin on top. Rubber wasn't flush with the inside surface after putting it back together so had to spackle some hot glue in there with a popsicle stick to make a seal since the glue gun wouldn't fit. Found a better way to do it next time.

Got more oomoo last night. Just finished pouring the base "phlange" (remembered to spray with ease release first). Waiting for it to cure then making the clay sprue thing for the pour funnel then doing the plastic bin thing again. Since the hotglue got messy going to fill in the gaps with a silicone caulk (already tested and works with oomoo).

Getting there!
 
Yeah... so. Had a minor catastrophe after the last part of the pour. Somehow the plastic bin wasn't secured all the way around. Checking on it every so often after the pour it was fine until I came back half an hour later and to my complete horror the bin had lifted up and was floating on top of the silicone as it slowly oozed over the sides onto the table already pooled into a 1 square foot (and spreading) puddle. :facepalm I don't even want to talk about it. Trying to be as thrifty with materials as possible and ended up wasting more than half of the silicone I had left instead.

After a while it started to cure enough that it sealed around the edge (didn't expect that). Let it cure overnight and decided may as well mix up the tiny bit of stuff left and finish the job... not sure if it would be salvageable or not since the rubber that escaped got into the seam/reg key area and was afraid it would meld everything together. If the whole mold was going to be a loss and would be cut up for filler, that tiny last bit really wouldn't matter at this point. : / Let it cure and surprisingly the two halves did come apart with significant effort but were in tact and fit back together nicely. Had the idea to test it out with some water after clamping the thick middle parts together. Leaked like a sieve. Unfortunately think this mold is a lost cause. I mean. Here:
f3_nuke_mold_awfuldumbcrap.jpg
It ain't pretty. Could try to fill in the gaps the hot glue seam left but i doubt that will help. Plus even though it is fairly thick and with the plastic bins kept on it deforms too much when handled... doubt it will make a properly unwarped cast. : (

Just did this whole thing ass-backwards from the start... tried to work with what I had on-hand instead of buying the right materials and pulled my hair out thinking of how to most efficiently use materials and made bad choices to try and save materials/money and ended up wasting what I had.

Sometime next week, finally going to make the pilgrimage to the closest smooth-on distributor and get what I need to do this and the next molds the right way. Going to pick up a gallon of rebound, a pint of thi-vex, and a gallon of plastipaste (that'll be fun to lug home but well worth it). Have someone kind enough to help me with the "startup" cost for all of this after explaining the frustration of not having enough/the right stuff to work with. It's a learning process and I know how most people do this/how it's supposed to be done but I though I could get away with doing it the cheap way...

Just looking at the two mold halves after the fact, the detail captured is prefect but splitting it horizontally (just because I had a container that it would fit better) and putting the pour spout where I did was an obvious bad move (didn't see the issue at the time putting it there, that's sleep deprivation for ya')...
f3_nuke_mold_1.jpgf3_nuke_mold_2.jpg
will be doing a 2-part in rebound, split "vertically" with the pout spout on the side rather than in the end. The mold jacket will be plasti-paste.

Failure is always an option... but not giving up.
More updates after resuming/starting over and as progress is made...
 
Wow, how did I miss this thread? I just found it while looking for my thread. The big question is: Did you get a hernia getting your original out of the mold? I had a serious vacuum with mine.

If you are doing a brush on mold I highly suggest you do NOT get a gallon of rebound. Two (probably three) of the trial size containers of Rebound should be enough and will cost about half of what a gallon will cost. Unless you will be making a lot of molds in the near future.
 
Wow, how did I miss this thread? I just found it while looking for my thread. The big question is: Did you get a hernia getting your original out of the mold? I had a serious vacuum with mine.

If you are doing a brush on mold I highly suggest you do NOT get a gallon of rebound. Two (probably three) of the trial size containers of Rebound should be enough and will cost about half of what a gallon will cost. Unless you will be making a lot of molds in the near future.

I saw your thread, looked good. : )
It came out of the mold without much of a fight from what i remember.
Got the rebound from a distributor for less than an equivalent volume of trial packs since I do plan on molding a backlog of other projects and sculptures. I'm actually going to be molding it along with everything else tonight and tomorrow.
 
This is sort of a late reply to a previous comment but do not get THF to smooth your prints. Its not like acetone and can result in organ damage among other things. Its nasty stuff. Bondo, scratch filling primer, Elmer's wood filler, sanding for smoothing PLA prints. Stay away from that THF.
 
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