My Shuttlecraft Galileo 20" Scratch-build and display

Yes, MDF you can get at Lowe's or HD. In my area though only HD sells MDF in 2' x 4' sections. That's all you really need I think.

If you plan to use your previous styrene bottom, I would recommend reinforcing it as much as you can as the top will tend to get heavier with MDF. It may create some support issues.
 
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Thanks for the info, much appreciated ;) I was thinking of using the current bottom half, but only the front half of it as I plan on thickening the sides at the rear so they match up with the PVC strips. I've already got one cross-brace in it, though more would probably be better given the added weight of the MDF.
 
Another picture. Some close up/detailed pics coming soon.

DSCF1523.jpg

Jon
 
Just beautiful, Jon! That backdrop really adds something to it. Looking forward to those close-up detail pics :)

Thanks, Eric, The background is a backlit film print of a picture I created. I couldn't find anything I liked after searching for weeks so, I had to make what I was looking for.

I posted some new pics and will have more tonight or tomorrow.

Jon
 
Splendid work! Excellent eye for the colors, great workmanship. Really dig the detail at the rear. I'd be interested in hearing how you created the clear case...
 
Thanks very much, ColHero. The case itself is quite a story. One day I drew a quick sketch of how I envisioned to display the shuttle...I knew I didn't want front posts right from the start. I never really though how it would all be done. In October, Brian (KNIGHTDRIVER here) came over one day to help out. He was secretly praying we would go with a simple circle front but I said, "We're going with an ellipse in front."

After convincing him to stay, we went to work making a series of templates.

The base is 3/4" MDF; one template cut out the base shape, one made to router a groove for the glass and one to cut out the top frame (which was 1/4" MDF with an identical 1/8" MDF glued on top of that for a little more thickness). The top frame also has a groove on the underside to hold the acrylic. The top glass piece I hand-cut on a table saw (with a new blade) to fit in there. Gently cleaned and perfected the curve on a belt sander.

The base has pieces added around the underside to form the lip and is patched and sanded to form a sweep. The acrylic (or plexiglass) took the curve pretty well although we did need to take 1/2" inch off the height. That small amount made it more manageable for some reason.

It was quite the process. The key is having templates that you can router around to form all the shapes.

Jon
 
Yeah, we need some kind of award for creating that case. Definitely tested our idea's and abilities.
It was fun to make and a work of art in itself!
 
Here are a couple more pictures.

This weekend I will have more pictures of the rear maintenance hatch and all the detail I included in there; blinking lights, etc.


DSCF1755.jpg DSCF1723.jpg

Jon
 
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