clancampbell
Sr Member
Utter genius! One of the best builds of ANYTHING i've seen in ages!!!
Rich
Rich
Team Fortress 2 Heavy Minigun Build (3D printed, IMAGE HEAVY)
- Thread starter coryalex
- Start date
metal wood
Well-Known Member
love the chip idea; didnt have a jack frost do it for me, but had a danny ocean (actually really cool to see in person) hand out home made casino chips.
coryalex
Active Member
coryalex
Active Member
UPDATE
I got the bullets painted and assembled for my bandolier. I will begin assembling the structure out of black vinyl soon.
Aluminum sheet applied to the ammo can (7-up cooler)
Edges of all aluminum sheet to be packed with bondo and sanded/blended to cooler body for smooth transition and uniform appearance
Inside edge secured with adhesive, body wrapped, then final lip folded and riveted with intentional uneven spacing (authentic appearance compared to game)
Positions of holes marked from inside with punch for drilling/cutting (I'll do this before Bondo and paint)
I got the bullets painted and assembled for my bandolier. I will begin assembling the structure out of black vinyl soon.
Aluminum sheet applied to the ammo can (7-up cooler)
Edges of all aluminum sheet to be packed with bondo and sanded/blended to cooler body for smooth transition and uniform appearance
Inside edge secured with adhesive, body wrapped, then final lip folded and riveted with intentional uneven spacing (authentic appearance compared to game)
Positions of holes marked from inside with punch for drilling/cutting (I'll do this before Bondo and paint)
travisccook
New Member
This is looking great, nice idea on the chips!
coryalex
Active Member
UPDATE
Okay, it was time to build the back half of the lower assembly (behind the ammo drum).
I found a 12" concrete form tube with the ID exactly the same size as the OD of the 7-up cooler lid!
I used small blocks (with screws and shoe goo) to secure the cooler lid to the concrete form tube on one end... the other end was fabricated from 11/32" plywood. The rectangular hole will be my access hole for installing electronics, running wiring, and changing the batteries. I'll design and 3D print a panel to cover the hole with switches and volume pot... very similar to the switch console you see on the actual minigun in the game.
The 3 holes you see drilled in the lid are one each for Motors, Lights, and Speaker.
The underside of the rear cylinder has a block into which the tube leading to the front is installed. I'm hoping to use the flat surface of this block to rest the gun... we'll see. Anyway, it's made from plywood and covered in aluminum sheeting.
Attaching the front and rear cylinders can't be permanent... just in case I need to service the motors, belts, or speaker. So, I installed 3/16" threaded Tees and will use 3/16" bolts to fasten the two halves together.
It seems I'm dressing everything up in aluminum sheeting... it's lightweight and provides a nice, smooth surface for painting.
I'm currently in the middle of Bondo and paint... front can is primed and ready for more sanding and filling as necessary. Rear can is Bondo'd and ready for sanding... hopefully, it will just turn out great and I can get it all painted.
I'm getting very close... I can smell it!
Okay, it was time to build the back half of the lower assembly (behind the ammo drum).
I found a 12" concrete form tube with the ID exactly the same size as the OD of the 7-up cooler lid!
I used small blocks (with screws and shoe goo) to secure the cooler lid to the concrete form tube on one end... the other end was fabricated from 11/32" plywood. The rectangular hole will be my access hole for installing electronics, running wiring, and changing the batteries. I'll design and 3D print a panel to cover the hole with switches and volume pot... very similar to the switch console you see on the actual minigun in the game.
The 3 holes you see drilled in the lid are one each for Motors, Lights, and Speaker.
The underside of the rear cylinder has a block into which the tube leading to the front is installed. I'm hoping to use the flat surface of this block to rest the gun... we'll see. Anyway, it's made from plywood and covered in aluminum sheeting.
Attaching the front and rear cylinders can't be permanent... just in case I need to service the motors, belts, or speaker. So, I installed 3/16" threaded Tees and will use 3/16" bolts to fasten the two halves together.
It seems I'm dressing everything up in aluminum sheeting... it's lightweight and provides a nice, smooth surface for painting.
I'm currently in the middle of Bondo and paint... front can is primed and ready for more sanding and filling as necessary. Rear can is Bondo'd and ready for sanding... hopefully, it will just turn out great and I can get it all painted.
I'm getting very close... I can smell it!
coryalex
Active Member
UPDATE
I printed the back panel for the switches and access hatch, but forgot to take any photos.
I'll take some photos later.
But I do have photos of...
Fake hex-head fasteners for the handle's "Y" section
Brass eject cover (yes windows are unevenly spaced, and yes the back is curved for flush fit to rear can)
Front pipe elbow and end cap (elbow is actually a PVC elbow with printed flanges... needs to be strong)
That is all for now.
I printed the back panel for the switches and access hatch, but forgot to take any photos.
I'll take some photos later.
But I do have photos of...
Fake hex-head fasteners for the handle's "Y" section
Brass eject cover (yes windows are unevenly spaced, and yes the back is curved for flush fit to rear can)
Front pipe elbow and end cap (elbow is actually a PVC elbow with printed flanges... needs to be strong)
That is all for now.
coryalex
Active Member
UPDATE!
Okay, I got a few things done this weekend.
- lots of painting done
- BANDOLIER DONE! (except for glue to secure shells)
Rear Can painted
Rear Can Hatch (with 2 holes... main power switch and volume control knob)
Tabs are secured with JB Qwik and screws... not going anywhere
This will be held by a 3/16" thumbscrew... to allow servicing of electronics and change of battery
Ammo Can Nipple
Brass Eject Port Cover and Ammo Can Nipple Ring (nipple ring?)
Ammo Can
Paint drying on pieces
Bandolier is done
Made from black vinyl
Stitched front side longer than back side (to make rounds more pronounced toward the front side and lay flatter on the back side)
Next steps:
- design and print control box (for right hand, hard mounted to frame for access to on/off, firing, and sound switches)
- final touch-up and paint of main components (before assembly)
- begin assembly
Okay, I got a few things done this weekend.
- lots of painting done
- BANDOLIER DONE! (except for glue to secure shells)
Rear Can painted
Rear Can Hatch (with 2 holes... main power switch and volume control knob)
Tabs are secured with JB Qwik and screws... not going anywhere
This will be held by a 3/16" thumbscrew... to allow servicing of electronics and change of battery
Ammo Can Nipple
Brass Eject Port Cover and Ammo Can Nipple Ring (nipple ring?)
Ammo Can
Paint drying on pieces
Bandolier is done
Made from black vinyl
Stitched front side longer than back side (to make rounds more pronounced toward the front side and lay flatter on the back side)
Next steps:
- design and print control box (for right hand, hard mounted to frame for access to on/off, firing, and sound switches)
- final touch-up and paint of main components (before assembly)
- begin assembly
Archive&Future
Sr Member
superb work!!
ShermanTank
Member
Serious business man! I am so impressed with your hardwork and dedication to authenticity! Way to problem solve and find solutions!
Seriously inspiring.
Thanks,
Tank
Seriously inspiring.
Thanks,
Tank
I can"t wait to see video of it complete! You will do the whole costume performance, right?
This just keeps getting better!
Well done sir!
Well done sir!
coryalex
Active Member
Yes, I'm doing the complete Heavy costume.
My deadline is the first weekend in June (Phoenix Comicon).
coryalex
Active Member
UPDATE
Okay, last night I had some time to perform some assembly...
- Cosmetic Brackets added to white Ammo Can
- Handle Assembly and Bearing Holder portion of Barrel Assembly assembled with Ammo Can
- Ammo Can Nipple and Ring installed
Cosmetic Brackets attached with Shoe Goo for flexibility during installation
Cosmetic Brackets wouldn't be complete without Cosmetic Screwheads
Completed Handle Assembly (white "Y" portion will come off and be further finished when I build the rear Handle Assembly)
Ammo Can, Bearing Holder, and Handle Assembly
Ammo Can Nipple (I attached a layer of felt to the base of the Nipple to keep it from potentially rattling when the speaker is operating)
Progress to date
Next steps:
- Install rotating Barrel and belts
- Install Motor Bracket
- Test finished Barrel + Motors Assembly
Okay, last night I had some time to perform some assembly...
- Cosmetic Brackets added to white Ammo Can
- Handle Assembly and Bearing Holder portion of Barrel Assembly assembled with Ammo Can
- Ammo Can Nipple and Ring installed
Cosmetic Brackets attached with Shoe Goo for flexibility during installation
Cosmetic Brackets wouldn't be complete without Cosmetic Screwheads
Completed Handle Assembly (white "Y" portion will come off and be further finished when I build the rear Handle Assembly)
Ammo Can, Bearing Holder, and Handle Assembly
Ammo Can Nipple (I attached a layer of felt to the base of the Nipple to keep it from potentially rattling when the speaker is operating)
Progress to date
Next steps:
- Install rotating Barrel and belts
- Install Motor Bracket
- Test finished Barrel + Motors Assembly
coryalex
Active Member
UPDDATE
(before you get too excited, I've got to remove the barrel and replace the 3 belts with shorter ones... the ones I installed were about 2" too long)
I installed the Rotating Barrel and Belts
Belts and LED lead enter here...
Another part of this project I had to tackle was how to control the lights and motors and sounds.
I've wrestled with how to do this effectively without ruining the appearance of the prop.
The solution I'm using is to make a custom control box for my right hand (near the rear of the prop, attached to the rear "handle") to work everything.
This box will be against my right hip between the rear frame and my body... fairly hidden, but accessible.
It shouldn't show up in photos or detract from the appearance of the finished prop.
I will attach it using JB Qwik around both registered fit holes and ONE bolt + fender washer (or small bar) to hold it flush against the frame, so it won't break free from stresses of use.
Anyway, here it is...
The switches work as follows:
- large toggle (black) - engage/disengage motors + wind up/wind down sounds
- red switch on front end - engage/disengage LEDs + firing/spinning sounds
- small toggle (silver) - select firing sound (standard or crits)
- 4 smaller pushbuttons (red and black) - trigger other sound effects
Next steps:
- replace belts with shorter ones
- final test of motors and LEDs
- button up front and back cans
(before you get too excited, I've got to remove the barrel and replace the 3 belts with shorter ones... the ones I installed were about 2" too long)
I installed the Rotating Barrel and Belts
Belts and LED lead enter here...
Another part of this project I had to tackle was how to control the lights and motors and sounds.
I've wrestled with how to do this effectively without ruining the appearance of the prop.
The solution I'm using is to make a custom control box for my right hand (near the rear of the prop, attached to the rear "handle") to work everything.
This box will be against my right hip between the rear frame and my body... fairly hidden, but accessible.
It shouldn't show up in photos or detract from the appearance of the finished prop.
I will attach it using JB Qwik around both registered fit holes and ONE bolt + fender washer (or small bar) to hold it flush against the frame, so it won't break free from stresses of use.
Anyway, here it is...
The switches work as follows:
- large toggle (black) - engage/disengage motors + wind up/wind down sounds
- red switch on front end - engage/disengage LEDs + firing/spinning sounds
- small toggle (silver) - select firing sound (standard or crits)
- 4 smaller pushbuttons (red and black) - trigger other sound effects
Next steps:
- replace belts with shorter ones
- final test of motors and LEDs
- button up front and back cans
joshvanrad
Sr Member
Ha. This is so awesome. I love the cartoonish cosmetic work.
