Testor's Metalizer airbrush paints

I've only used these on small projects, like 1/48 scale airplanes. Now I want to try using it on a Commander Gree helmet, to make the metal part really shine and look, well, like metal.

I understand you airbrush it on then buff.

How have other folks results been and would you recommend another spray-on paint that could achieve this effect better?

I've used them only on small detail model parts with mediocre results. Personally I wouldn't use them on any large scale item. Rub-N-Buff might be better, but that too is finicky since touching it, like metalizer paints will leave marks. I'd go for a more generic spray can solution which can stand up to handling and display well.

Steve

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DL 44 Blaster @ Jan 31 2007, 04:27 PM) [snapback]1408847[/snapback]</div>

I've used them only on small detail model parts with mediocre results. Personally I wouldn't use them on any large scale item. Rub-N-Buff might be better, but that too is finicky since touching it, like metalizer paints will leave marks. I'd go for a more generic spray can solution which can stand up to handling and display well.

Steve
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Thanks. That's what the general consensus seems to be from other folks I ask.

Two words: Metal. Foil.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DL 44 Blaster @ Feb 1 2007, 06:27 AM) [snapback]1408847[/snapback]</div>

Rub-N-Buff might be better, but that too is finicky since touching it, like metalizer paints will leave marks. [/b]

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Wouldn't a protective layer of clear coat over the Rub-N-Buff solve this problem? Or does the clear coat spoil the metallic look of the Rub-N-Buff?

Rub and Buff is a paste wax product. Getting a gloss clear coat to stick to that... rotsa ruck.

I use it to restore the hardware on antiques or give new reproductions an antique look. It was never meant to have a high luster. Only metal leafing can give you that high luster short of having the part plated.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TK1536 @ Jan 30 2007, 08:44 PM) [snapback]1408040[/snapback]</div>

I've only used these on small projects, like 1/48 scale airplanes. Now I want to try using it on a Commander Gree helmet, to make the metal part really shine and look, well, like metal.

I understand you airbrush it on then buff.

How have other folks results been and would you recommend another spray-on paint that could achieve this effect better?
[/b]

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What type of metal look are you going for; chrome, steel, aluminium, etc?

I would take a look at alclad II products (they do more than chrome). They have quite a large range of metallic colors that dry quick, look just like metal and can be handled without problems after 24-48 hours (I always allow 48 hours for lacquer paints).

-Fred

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Hand Solo @ Feb 1 2007, 03:17 PM) [snapback]1409184[/snapback]</div>

Rub and Buff is a paste wax product. Getting a gloss clear coat to stick to that... rotsa ruck.[/b]

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I don't mean to sidetrack this thread, but some of the information posted here has raised a question I'd like to ask:

I've got a helmet built up by one of our members, beautifully finished with Rub-N-Buff. Am I to understand that I should not touch the surface of the helmet with my bare fingers, because doing so may leave marks in the Rub-N-Buff and spoil the finish?

Thanks for any information any Rub-N-Buff experts can offer.

Anybody ever try this paint?

http://www.modernmastersinc.com/metallicpaint.asp

The metalizers now come in rattle cans, and I used the gunmetal on a BSG season 1 pistol, and I was rather pleased with the results

granted I did spend almost 3 days buffing the hell out of it, but when I was done you could see your reflection in it.

as for Rub n Buff, yes you can spoil the finish if you touch it, but it has more to do with the long dry time for the wax. It will harden but it takes days.

they recommend using an acrylic clear coat over the finish if you look at the Mal and Jayne guns I did, they are both Rub n Buff with a gloss acrylic clear coat, and I really pleased with how metal like they look

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(tgreco @ Feb 2 2007, 03:39 AM) [snapback]1409558[/snapback]</div>

they recommend using an acrylic clear coat over the finish [/b]

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Ah. Then it is possible to put a clearcoat over the Rub-N-Buff.

Thanks for the information. :thumbsup

Yeah, I've clearcoated most of my prop projects and virtually all of them have Rub n buff applied (hell, my Rocketeer helmet is all RnB) you just need to give it time to dry. Much like enamel paints that have to degas.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(temponaut @ Feb 1 2007, 01:43 PM) [snapback]1409563[/snapback]</div>

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(tgreco @ Feb 2 2007, 03:39 AM) [snapback]1409558[/snapback]

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they recommend using an acrylic clear coat over the finish [/b]

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Ah. Then it is possible to put a clearcoat over the Rub-N-Buff.

Thanks for the information. :thumbsup
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It is possible to clearcoat it, BUT I'm certain, as with every other metal finish it will dull it down. The only way to know for sure would be to do a test peice or section. Personally, I'd leave it as is and not mess with it too much.

Steve

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DL 44 Blaster @ Feb 1 2007, 07:52 PM) [snapback]1409631[/snapback]</div>

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(temponaut @ Feb 1 2007, 01:43 PM) [snapback]1409563[/snapback]

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(tgreco @ Feb 2 2007, 03:39 AM) [snapback]1409558[/snapback]

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they recommend using an acrylic clear coat over the finish [/b]

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Ah. Then it is possible to put a clearcoat over the Rub-N-Buff.

Thanks for the information. :thumbsup
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It is possible to clearcoat it, BUT I'm certain, as with every other metal finish it will dull it down. The only way to know for sure would be to do a test peice or section. Personally, I'd leave it as is and not mess with it too much.

Steve
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I wonder if that would happen even if you used Future floor wax. That's an acrylic clear coat that has one heck of a shine. I know Lacquer clear coats dull the finish, but I don't know for certain if FFW would have the same effect.

-Fred

Most of the metal paints that I've experimented with work in a similar fashion - microscopic pieces of metal suspended in a paint solution. And they all work to varying degrees. I've had good luck with the Testors stuff on bare plastic. The Testors stuff can't be applied to a painted or primed surface - even if it buffed out to a high shine first. I tried it on a Naboo Studio Scale-ish replica and it just didn't work. It really likes being the only paint layer on the model. I've also had mixed results with Testors' Metallizer paints or resins. Sometimes it sticks, sometimes it doesn't. Due to the nature of the paint, it is fragile. But a clear coat will affect the lustre - it will look like shiny metal paint as opposed to shiny metal.

SNJ has you apply the paint first and then buff in the metallic powder. The result over a painted surface was superior to Testors' Metallizer, but still not as good as I have achieved with some plastic kits. Their surface was tougher and I didn't feel the need to apply a protective clearcoat.

Alclad actaully wants you to prime the surface with gloss black. When I strip my Naboo fighter down, I will try that after I apply some Tamiya Gloss Black from a spray can. We'll see.

I tried some Krylon stuff (gold) for and Indy Jones Fertility Idol I painted for a friend. It yielded pretty good results too. But it was the simplest application of all the paints I've listed.

Bare Metal Foil works for small flat areas and gentle compound curves. I tried their Ultra Bright Chrome on the Naboo ship and was very dissapointed. The only difference I could see between the Ultra Bright and the Regular Chrome was the thickness. The Ultra Bright was thicker and thus more prone to wrinkles than the regular chrome, which was thinner and easier to apply. I will likely strip the fuselage down and apply the Regular Chrome stuff to the main body. (Ironically, it appears that the ILM Art Dept used Bare Metal Foil on their reference maquette of the Naboo fighter and got the same wrinkles I did. So it looks like I do have an accurate replica in that sense.)

There was a thread in the general props forum about a new chrome paint used in the automotive industry. It was expensive, but generally thought to be promising (haven't tried it).

Good Luck,

Gene

Good input guys, thanks..

Here's a really amazing option, but also really expensive.
http://alsacorp.com/products/killercans/ki...ns_prodinfo.htm


I'm going to check out Rub N Buff. My only concern is, even after it's throughly dried, can it be painted over? I need to apply a color over it that will be masked with tape and latex, to simulate paint chips, with the metal showing threw.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Gigatron @ Feb 1 2007, 12:43 PM) [snapback]1409510[/snapback]</div>

...I would take a look at alclad II products (they do more than chrome). They have quite a large range of metallic colors that dry quick, look just like metal and can be handled without problems after 24-48 hours (I always allow 48 hours for lacquer paints).

-Fred
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I'm currently looking for those, as they show promise.

An item I wanted to try but never got around to it.
http://www.hlj.com/product/WRK00251

Re: Testor's Metalizer airbrush paints

TK1536 said:

Good input guys, thanks!!

Here's a really amazing option, but also really expensive.
http://alsacorp.com/products/killercans/ki...ns_prodinfo.htm


I'm going to check out Rub N Buff. My only concern is, even after it's throughly dried, can it be painted over? I need to apply a color over it that will be masked with tape and latex, to simulate paint chips, with the metal showing threw.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Gigatron @ Feb 1 2007, 12:43 PM) [snapback]1409510[/snapback]</div>

I'm currently looking for those, as they show promise.

Click to expand...

Rub N Buff is wax based..so it can be painted over but then if its scuffed or something it will peal ..Its great stuff for not to be touched items.

Re: Testor's Metalizer airbrush paints

Ghost from the past...

I ended up using the Alclad II metal finish lacquers on my Commander Gree. Works beautifully. And on things like the biceps and shoulder bells that might take some wear and tear, I brushed on a couple layers of Minwax Polycrylic and it still has the metal look. Good stuff! :thumbsup

Re: Testor's Metalizer airbrush paints

Use Alclad paints