Best paint for dry-brushing silver?

tubachris85x

Master Member
For my weathering techniques, I haven't really had the "need" to utilize dry brushing to have the illusion of silver popping through. I attempted it once prior on a helmet I did, but wasn't satisfied with the results...it was too liquidy and overall I wasn't happy with the results. I'll soon have a small weathering commission on an item which has already been painted, and I would like to properly re-create a scratched surface to "reveal" a silver beneath. I'd like to know what you guys use or would recommend...thank you

-TC
 
I like Testor's Matte Aluminum enamel, and typically I use a really rough bristle brush with stiff fibers for my drybrushing.

There's almost no paint on the brush when you're done dabbing it off in prep for the accents, that part is key. You'd be surprised at how little can go very far. Its easy to add more, harder to remove too much. Go in light passes and you'll be golden.

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I've been using Citadel's 'Mithril Silver' for years, works a treat. It's just thick enough not to run and very easy to get out of a brush; it's ideal for this kind of thing.
To be honest you really want a very light shiny silver paint that has an emulsion consistency, I've found that to be perfect.
 
Thanks guys! I may have a better chance of finding Testors as I haven't seen Citadel before. I'll get a different brush as well like you mentioned!
 
I have used the citadel stuff before, its pretty good but dries quickly(on the brush). A stiffish brush is a good idea.

If I paint something with acrylics I would normally use an enamel silver and vice versa to stop the paint interacting with each other.
 
I have found that enamel metallics do tend to drybrush a little better than acrylic ones, so the Testors matte Aluminum should work fine. Plus, the Testors metallics tend to be ground up a bit finer than some other paints, meaning you don't see as much metal flake and more consistent coloring. And because enamels stay a little wetter for longer, they don't tend to ball up like dried acrylic can. Granted some balled up paint texture can help with the weathering look, but you don't necessarily want too much.

One thing I also find that helps a bit to keep your brush from getting too ratty is to keep a small jar of lacquer thinner close for cleaning the brush. Reason being is it should be able to get in and soften the dried paint deep inside the brush, no matter how crusty it gets. Different brushes can produce different effects in dry brushing, same as in other paint techniques. If you want to practice first, try your base paint on a scrap part to get a feel for what works before doing it to the prop itself. But at the same time, weathering of this type does tend to be more free form, with the potential of producing some nice happy accidents along the way. So don't be too strict about it.
 
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