Graflex Inc. or Folmer Graflex for Luke ESB Hero Lightsaber?

... don't do anything ... step away from that graflex or future lightsaber now ... it's all natural weathering and gives genuine character to the piece as well.


Chaim
 
Heh... the rust actually isn't visible.... you can only see it when you take the flash apart and look inside where the batteries go or behind the clamp... I'm just afraid of further corrosion...
 
... don't be afraid ... that graflex has been around since well at least 60 years now ... so I'd guess it has a lot more potential being a lightsaber ... for eons ... by the way fear leads to suffering ... which in turn leads to the dark side ... and if that doesn't help my father used to say : 'Dunk it in some Coca Cola that will take care of rust ... for ever!'

Chaim
 
So here's what I've managed to pick up.... So... swap the bottoms so that I have my Folmer bottom with my Graflex Inc. top with the TSR pins... what do you guys think?

Now I just have to buy an extra "modern" red button to complete the look. Also, are there any links to how or do any of you know how to remove the "beer tab"?

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some painters tape around the area you need to pry or work. I'd pry with a flat tipped screw driver, or pull with pliers. careful though!

Looks good man!

finding that button will be a new challenge
 
Sweet! Thanks for the tip Scott!

So it should just pop right off? Has anyone ever just cut off the beer tab and left the post? Or would that not be accurate... it just seems odd to have the small hole left there...
 
Bumping this old thread for a little advice....

I just picked up a Graflex 2 cell for the extra red button (and the extra clamp for my Obi build) so I'm almost ready to try and put together my ESB replica...

BUT... my base Graflex at the moment is a older 3-cell Folmer Graflex with the straight pins and thin button curling.

For the sake of "screen/hero accuracy" should I try and hunt down a Graflex Inc. Graflex (or hunt for a Graflex Inc 3-cell bottom for use with my 2-cell top) or just use the Folmer?

I have a real HP circuit board and a real Kobold D-ring holder so I'm *this* close to having all of the parts to make an accurate real parts replica so I don't want to flub the main part of the build...

What are all of your thoughts??

If Edraven99 (or anyone else who actually knows) is still following this thread... what device (model number, etc) did the real HP circuit board actually come from. Because, I've bombed out trying to identify what sort of computer/calculator/whatever from the cryptic HP-44 reference.
 
Anyone have any advice on how to get rid of minor rusting on a graflex without ruining the overall finish? Fortunately it looks like the extent of it is some minor surface rust on the inside of the clamp and the inside of the tube where there's some battery corrosion in my Folmer.

on another note, I just got my 2 cell and this thing is *pristine*! I'll post some pics later tonight...

I smeared a light coat of johnsons paste wax and that seemed to stop it in its tracks.
 
If Edraven99 (or anyone else who actually knows) is still following this thread... what device (model number, etc) did the real HP circuit board actually come from. Because, I've bombed out trying to identify what sort of computer/calculator/whatever from the cryptic HP-44 reference.

Unfortunately I don't know... the boards I've gotten have been off other members here so I haven't had to source out circuit boards myself yet:

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=231549&p=3988081&viewfull=1#post3988081

And I believe there's also been some doubt cast on whether the boards are from HP I think.... at least that there may be an alternative to... Otis circuit boards from old elevators I believe... I think Tom (@thd9791) was the one looking into those....
 
If we're talking about OT graflexes, they were not HP boards. HP had some pretty distinctive patterns to their boards, and I'm 90% sure one was used for TFA.

The boards you want are probably industrial boards or computer extension cards. Thing is, we need straight leads (silver part), and at the time that was pretty rare. Industrial boards are large and have long leads that turn at right angles around chips and stuff. Extension cards are, literally, extenders so the leads go straight from socket to plug across the board. most others have swooping and curving leads that are usually too thick anyway, compared to the 22 or 44 pin gold plugs we want.

I used Otis elevator boards in my Skywalker Ranch saber, but again, only 1-2 boards have the right leads. I've also seen extension cards work too.

They also aren't guaranteed to be cheap. Some scrap places sell them for $20 or less, and some collector places sell the same boards for over $200. Considering the rarity of the boards themselves, in the prop community you see the correct ones sold for 60-100 bucks sometimes.

PM me if you'd like!
 
Anyone have any advice on how to get rid of minor rusting on a graflex without ruining the overall finish? Fortunately it looks like the extent of it is some minor surface rust on the inside of the clamp and the inside of the tube where there's some battery corrosion in my Folmer.

The clamp is a iron-nickel alloy. Battery acid will attack the iron component and that is what you are seeing. Doesn't seem to mess with the tube much, which is copper-nickel-zinc (no iron).. The reaction has no doubt fully run its course. You could lightly clean it and then perhaps coat the inside with a dielectric grease if you are really worried. But you are almost certainly just fine leaving it as is and just not letting any moisture get in there to reboot the process.
 
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