V for Vendetta belt - WIP

You'll be gluing the suede sides together. Soft to soft.

I do hope your sewing machine is strong enough to sew through it. You'll more than likely also need a needle and thread thick enough for leather.

Excellent thanks again for the info and help! I will have to investigate the sewing side of things as I've only ever used it for thinner material. I'm sure with a proper needle and some changes to some settings I'll be ok. If not, my original plan was to simply do it as I did my journal and use my leather awl to punch holes and do the aesthetic stitching by hand with heavy gauge black thread. Once I research more I'm sure I'll figure out what I can do and how much is needed on it!

Also... I don't have the buckle or the daggers yet will I still be able to make it before I get them?
 
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Excellent thanks again for the info and help! I will have to investigate the sewing side of things as I've only ever used it for thinner material. I'm sure with a proper needle and some changes to some settings I'll be ok. If not, my original plan was to simply do it as I did my journal and use my leather awl to punch holes and do the aesthetic stitching by hand with heavy gauge black thread. Once I research more I'm sure I'll figure out what I can do and how much is needed on it!

Also... I don't have the buckle or the daggers yet will I still be able to make it before I get them?
See, the motor of the sewing machine needs to be powerful enough to sew through such thick material. Most commercial sewing machines don't have that kind of motor. You'd need an industrial/heavy duty sewing machine.

If you can't stitch the belt using a sewing machine, yes you can do it by hand. It'll take longer but the result will be the same. And yes you can make the belt before you have a buckle or daggers.
 
See, the motor of the sewing machine needs to be powerful enough to sew through such thick material. Most commercial sewing machines don't have that kind of motor. You'd need an industrial/heavy duty sewing machine.

If you can't stitch the belt using a sewing machine, yes you can do it by hand. It'll take longer but the result will be the same. And yes you can make the belt before you have a buckle or daggers.

Question... again! Sorry haha. Would you recommend cutting the strips of leather in a couple of long rectangles and glueing them together so it's 2 ply and THEN patterning out the belt and cutting it out? Or cut out two and glue together after? Sorry if that sounds like a silly question!
 
Question... again! Sorry haha. Would you recommend cutting the strips of leather in a couple of long rectangles and glueing them together so it's 2 ply and THEN patterning out the belt and cutting it out? Or cut out two and glue together after? Sorry if that sounds like a silly question!
I think it'd be best if you glued them as rectangles first then cut the belt out. That way the edges as symmetrical as you can on the first and if they aren't, you'll have less work to do finishing them.

Also, one thing I'd like suggesting. If the belt can't be bent with ease, you may not want to do the belt end that wraps around the buckle 2ply so it can be wrapped around the buckle more easily.
 
I think it'd be best if you glued them as rectangles first then cut the belt out. That way the edges as symmetrical as you can on the first and if they aren't, you'll have less work to do finishing them.

Also, one thing I'd like suggesting. If the belt can't be bent with ease, you may not want to do the belt end that wraps around the buckle 2ply so it can be wrapped around the buckle more easily.

Thanks! That makes a lot of sense. I'll keep that in mind! Quick question about the hat of you recall. Do you remember any of the size details of brim width and height? Also, does the hat sit over the mask or flush with the flat top part? I'm trying to work out where to take my head hat measurement and it's unclear where it sits! Thank you again so much!
 
Thanks! That makes a lot of sense. I'll keep that in mind! Quick question about the hat of you recall. Do you remember any of the size details of brim width and height? Also, does the hat sit over the mask or flush with the flat top part? I'm trying to work out where to take my head hat measurement and it's unclear where it sits! Thank you again so much!
6inch flat top crown, 4.25 inch flat brim. 2inch petersham ribbon (small toothed, cotton-rayon or ribbon specifically made for hats/millinery) for the hatband, 1inch for the brim binding. You'll have to measure your head as you wear the wig and mask for best look. If you measure without the wig and/or mask, the hat will be too small and will look odd as it will sit higher than where it needs to. Forcing the hat to sit where it should when it doesn't go any lower will more than likely ruin the shape of the hat (brim).

Once you've put on the wig and mask, you measure over the ridge just above the mask's eyebrows and you keep the tape measure level with the ground. Take that number, divide by Pi, and select the closest hat size to the number you get.
 
6inch flat top crown, 4.25 inch flat brim. 2inch petersham ribbon (small toothed, cotton-rayon or ribbon specifically made for hats/millinery) for the hatband, 1inch for the brim binding. You'll have to measure your head as you wear the wig and mask for best look. If you measure without the wig and/or mask, the hat will be too small and will look odd as it will sit higher than where it needs to. Forcing the hat to sit where it should when it doesn't go any lower will more than likely ruin the shape of the hat (brim).

Once you've put on the wig and mask, you measure over the ridge just above the mask's eyebrows and you keep the tape measure level with the ground. Take that number, divide by Pi, and select the closest hat size to the number you get.

Thanks! All that is so helpful! Do you have any photos of you and your costume at all? I meant to ask before but I'm sure I read that you didn't!
 
Thanks! All that is so helpful! Do you have any photos of you and your costume at all? I meant to ask before but I'm sure I read that you didn't!
I don't have any to show you. See, I don't like taking photos of things I'm unhappy with. :unsure

maybe I just felt stupid wearing it. :lol
 
I don't have any to show you. See, I don't like taking photos of things I'm unhappy with. :unsure

maybe I just felt stupid wearing it. :lol

That's a shame! From what I can tel I'm sure you looks fantastic! I completely understand though, I have a few costumes that I don't wear often because they're too inaccurate still or not quite good enough. What was it that you felt so disappointed with on your V? I'm so excited with this project! I just hope I can do it justice :)
 
[strike]I'll have you know I'm not a big fan of the new pattern either.[/strike] Well, it is a LOT better than what I uploaded 3 hours ago. There is just no way to have a belt actually look like V's without it being tailored from 4 body measurements.

The post on page 2 has been updated.


Just got access to the links! My browser went weird!
 
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I had this made last month on Etsy from a seller named TheIronRing. They had a similar cast pirate buckle and created this design based on lots of photos and measurements from here. Price was $60 US. I don't know if you could get it for less now that they have a mold. It's a nice, solid, lightweight buckle. I would have liked it a bit more smoothly polished for the price, but otherwise it's quite nice.

Hey Ray! Just got my buckle from the etsy seller. It's not bad! Bit "rustic" finished but great little thing. Did you ever start making a belt using the patterns and buckle? I'm now getting a few things ready but the buckle from etsy it's slightly smaller than most the patterns and I wondered what you did.

3mm is too thin for a single ply belt. Your belt needs to be at least 4-6mm thick overall, whether it's from a single ply or two. V's belt is 2 ply anyway so you should just go with that 43x20 piece. You'll even have enough for two 2 ply belts.

You should measure your waist size so you can be sure of the size you need. Don't settle on luck. I kinda did and my belt doesn't fit anymore.
Each pattern contains a reference buckle in the proper dimensions. When your buckle is made, it should not be thicker than .63cm

Hey J. Could you offer advice? I was thinking I'll just need to reduce the width down of the pattern to fit the buckle but wanted to check. This is the 32" pattern. Thanks!

IMG_5699.JPG
 
Hey Ray! Just got my buckle from the etsy seller. It's not bad! Bit "rustic" finished but great little thing. Did you ever start making a belt using the patterns and buckle? I'm now getting a few things ready but the buckle from etsy it's slightly smaller than most the patterns and I wondered what you did.



Hey J. Could you offer advice? I was thinking I'll just need to reduce the width down of the pattern to fit the buckle but wanted to check. This is the 32" pattern. Thanks!

View attachment 708868
With the exception of the dimensions, the buckle is fine. Even some of V's buckles looks like that, kinda beat up. And I don't recommend reducing the width of the pattern, maybe just work on the taper at the bottom.
The pattern has a 3" width. Take a ruler, place the 3" mark on the top line and move the ruler across the top line while keeping the 3" mark on it . Once the taper begins at the bottom line, you'd have to redraw the bottom line from that point on to fit the width of the buckle opening. You want to work on reducing the taper from the bottom line of the pattern, not the top since the top is consistent throughout.

Also, cut out the pattern and tape it together first so you know it fits.
 
With the exception of the dimensions, the buckle is fine. Even some of V's buckles looks like that, kinda beat up. And I don't recommend reducing the width of the pattern, maybe just work on the taper at the bottom.
The pattern has a 3" width. Take a ruler, place the 3" mark on the top line and move the ruler across the top line while keeping the 3" mark on it . Once the taper begins at the bottom line, you'd have to redraw the bottom line from that point on to fit the width of the buckle opening. You want to work on reducing the taper from the bottom line of the pattern, not the top since the top is consistent throughout.

Also, cut out the pattern and tape it together first so you know it fits.

Hello! I managed to taper the ends so they're both equal and fit through the belt buckle with ease. Just a quick question before I do any gluing... should I make both ends single ply or would the buckle wrap end be sufficient in single ply? It's a fairly roomy buckle but i just wondered your thoughts?
 
Hello! I managed to taper the ends so they're both equal and fit through the belt buckle with ease. Just a quick question before I do any gluing... should I make both ends single ply or would the buckle wrap end be sufficient in single ply? It's a fairly roomy buckle but i just wondered your thoughts?
single ply is recommended only if the belt is too thick and you have difficulty wrapping the buckle end around the buckle bar. if you can do it, then it should be fine as double ply. also, the other end with the holes should be double ply regardless.
 
single ply is recommended only if the belt is too thick and you have difficulty wrapping the buckle end around the buckle bar. if you can do it, then it should be fine as double ply. also, the other end with the holes should be double ply regardless.

Thanks very much once again for the reply and the info! I'm going to leave the end unglued and cut the pattern out to see how it fits through the buckle and if it's too tight or won't bend I shall make that bit single ply! The hole end I'll keep double. Thanks! I'm going with the 34" pattern as it seems to fit well. I haven't got my doublet yet so had to wear other stuff to yeast size. Luckily I have more leather and can easily make two belts! Voila. Time to begin.

IMG_6388.JPG
 
single ply is recommended only if the belt is too thick and you have difficulty wrapping the buckle end around the buckle bar. if you can do it, then it should be fine as double ply. also, the other end with the holes should be double ply regardless.

One quick question... once I've figured out which length I require and which rivet points to use do I use the whole length when I fold the end or am I to cut it down? Also, do I need to cut the whole slit for the buckle prong first or only a little bit where required? This is a lot more hassle than I thought. Maybe I'm over complicating things!

IMG_6509.JPGIMG_6508.JPG
 
One quick question... once I've figured out which length I require and which rivet points to use do I use the whole length when I fold the end or am I to cut it down? Also, do I need to cut the whole slit for the buckle prong first or only a little bit where required? This is a lot more hassle than I thought. Maybe I'm over complicating things!
Lets see if I understand what you mean by what's in bold and underlined.

If you want to be able to use 3 holes as opposed to just the first one (which makes it a single size belt), you have to use the entire length of the buckle end which means you have to cut out the entire horizontal prong slit. While the buckle end has 5 pairs of holes, it has 3 functioning sets (each set being what the arrows point to). The opposite end, that gets fastened, has 5 holes. The two unmarked holes on it are considered decorative. They can be used, however, if you want to retain the symmetrical look once the belt is fastened according to which set/hole you'll use, you should not use the unmarked holes. And you really should actually cut them off so the fastening end is not visible past the buckle, like V's.

To determine where you'll cut the extra length of the fastening length (if you want to actually cut it), look at the vertical line on the pattern that divides the belt and tapered end and mark/visualize it on the belt. This line should meet the edge of the buckle's inner square. Fasten the belt on the first hole to determine how much is sticking beyond the buckle. It should be just over the third hole. Cut the fastening end there.


I think I'm over complicating this trying to explain it because this part mostly is determined by the size of the holes/rivets and belt thickness, so it's reasonable to find it complicated. But this really is easier done than said! And if you don't want to further confuse yourself, you can settle for a single size belt, also like V's. If you settle for single size, then you only need one set of screw rivet holes. You don't have to cut out the pair of holes (that would've been for set 2) between the holes for set 1. As for the horizontal prong slit, the length for a single set should be 1.5" total if you go by what is on the pattern. Here, you can use the center pair of holes (between the holes used for set 1) to determine where you'll cut. It's .75"/1.905cm to the left and to the right.


If you still have trouble, the moment you have your rivets, know that the rivets should be placed in the middle of the buckle's rectangle. Slide the buckle end through the buckle so the vertical line on this side meets with the buckle's inner square edge. Wrap it over the center bar as tight as you can but of course leaving a little wiggle room. Pinch the buckle end in the middle of the buckle rectangle with your thumb/index fingers and that is where you'll cut the holes (for set 1); where your fingers meet. If you'd like making it adjustable, make a pair of holes between the holes for set 1 and determine the distance between pairs. Then make the other pairs of holes. This really is the way you should do it to be on the safe side as it'll determine the distance between pairs of holes, more or less, needed for your belt's thickness and rivet post diameter.

Last thing, the prong on your buckle is thin which means you'll have to make the horizontal prong slit on the buckle end thinner.

Oh yeah. I just noticed that your buckle prong is also kind of long. It may give you a hard time fastening the belt properly, maybe make it impossible to fasten. :|
 
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Lets see if I understand what you mean by what's in bold and underlined.

If you want to be able to use 3 holes as opposed to just the first one (which makes it a single size belt), you have to use the entire length of the buckle end which means you have to cut out the entire horizontal prong slit. While the buckle end has 5 pairs of holes, it has 3 functioning sets (each set being what the arrows point to). The opposite end, that gets fastened, has 5 holes. The two unmarked holes on it are considered decorative. They can be used, however, if you want to retain the symmetrical look once the belt is fastened according to which set/hole you'll use, you should not use the unmarked holes. And you really should actually cut them off so the fastening end is not visible past the buckle, like V's.

To determine where you'll cut the extra length of the fastening length (if you want to actually cut it), look at the vertical line on the pattern that divides the belt and tapered end and mark/visualize it on the belt. This line should meet the edge of the buckle's inner square. Fasten the belt on the first hole to determine how much is sticking beyond the buckle. It should be just over the third hole. Cut the fastening end there.


I think I'm over complicating this trying to explain it because this part mostly is determined by the size of the holes/rivets and belt thickness, so it's reasonable to find it complicated. But this really is easier done than said! And if you don't want to further confuse yourself, you can settle for a single size belt, also like V's. If you settle for single size, then you only need one set of screw rivet holes. You don't have to cut out the pair of holes (that would've been for set 2) between the holes for set 1. As for the horizontal prong slit, the length for a single set should be 1.5" total if you go by what is on the pattern. Here, you can use the center pair of holes (between the holes used for set 1) to determine where you'll cut. It's .75"/1.905cm to the left and to the right.


If you still have trouble, the moment you have your rivets, know that the rivets should be placed in the middle of the buckle's rectangle. Slide the buckle end through the buckle so the vertical line on this side meets with the buckle's inner square edge. Wrap it over the center bar as tight as you can but of course leaving a little wiggle room. Pinch the buckle end in the middle of the buckle rectangle with your thumb/index fingers and that is where you'll cut the holes (for set 1); where your fingers meet. If you'd like making it adjustable, make a pair of holes between the holes for set 1 and determine the distance between pairs. Then make the other pairs of holes. This really is the way you should do it to be on the safe side as it'll determine the distance between pairs of holes, more or less, needed for your belt's thickness and rivet post diameter.

Last thing, the prong on your buckle is thin which means you'll have to make the horizontal prong slit on the buckle end thinner.

Oh yeah. I just noticed that your buckle prong is also kind of long. It may give you a hard time fastening the belt properly, maybe make it impossible to fasten. :|


Ok. Cool. So much info! Haha. Thanks for taking the time to reply with such detail. I have tried on the pattern for 36" and for 34" and neither of them fit perfectly using hole "one" and buckle end set "one" closest to the vertical line. It's either too tight or too loose. I've decided to use the 34" pattern using the holes relating to hole "two". I'm thinking I'll bend the leather round and put the rivets in and cut the fastening length down so it's hidden as suggested. My only concern or confusion now is when you said about making it adjustable and making a pair of holes between the holes? Does that mean I can't cut down the buckle end leather and should leave the length? Providing hole set 2 fits I think I'll make it permanent and just scrap all the extra leather and cut it off. V's belt is actually one continuous piece through the buckle which is only aesthetic and fixed non adjustable because the belt actually does up at the back seam so if I have a problem with the fit of the belt I'll slit the back and make it adjustable anyway. The rivets may cause me issue because I've only been able to get a hole of pop rivets to hammer and not screw ones but I don't think ill need to take them out so it shouldn't be an issue. It's just gunna take me ages to hand stitch it so I wanna get going! Haha
 
Long time no see, guys.

I inserted the holders into my belt yesterday :)

I bent the alu holders in the middle first, then cut the holes in the belt with a scalpel.

View attachment 329729

The thick leather keeps the holders in place nicely so I didn't need rivets.

View attachment 329730

You can see that I couldn't get the holders to be neat and flat on the inside but it doesn't really matter in my case.
I also buffed the holders in the end to make alu look shiny.

View attachment 329731

So I guess this project isn't a WIP anymore :)

What are the dimensions of the alu holders? I know some of it depends on your blades but what length and width did you use? And if I can ask... how far from the edge is the stitching line placed? Looks about 1cm? Thanks!
 
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