Skyrim Dragonplate Armor

Vrogy

Well-Known Member
Doin' it.

Plan is to cut these with a gazelle or craft robo or CNC laser or something- sure as hell won't be by hand. Then assemble, resin, fiberglass, and a thin layer of paperclay, some hand-carved and cut detail passes, weathering, sealant, paint, straps, leatherwork, etc. Some foam-skinning for the metal trimming, in spots.

Made most of the models

dagonbawn.c4d * by vrogy, on Flickr

Made most of the pep files

Dragonbone Pauldron in Pepakura by vrogy, on Flickr


Dragonbone Thigh in Pepakura by vrogy, on Flickr


Dragonbone Knee in Pepakura by vrogy, on Flickr


Dragonbone Sabaton in Pepakura by vrogy, on Flickr


Dragonbone Greave in Pepakura by vrogy, on Flickr


Dragonbone Forearm in Pepakura by vrogy, on Flickr

need to finish models and unfolds, cut, and assemble.
 
Here's a knee. Put this together last night while the CNC plotter/cutter zipped out 20 pages.

Got a decent workflow set up for that, as well- for the Bosskut Gazelle, I export EMF files from Pepakura, then run that file through Coreldraw to separate out pages and use the oldest autocad export profile to save out DXFs. I run those with the driver and software originally intended for the 'CutOK DC330', which has a suspiciously similar design to the gazelle, and it cuts OK.


100_0419.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr

It fits well. These pants drape off my leg a bit, coverage over the sides of the knee is pretty good.

100_0420.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr
 
Wow! I'll be very interested to see how this goes. Love the knee, very accurate. I'm particularly interested to see how the scaling works and how easy it'll be to get into the armour once it's all rigid. That's always my big worry! :)
 
Trying an alternate method for pepakura-to-wearable-stuffs
Theoretically, you build the papercraft with tabs out, then brush the inside with cheap silicone, and slush inside smoothcast, or other urethane resins.
The silicone acts as a throw-away mold release, and you tear off and toss out the papercraft.
I've only seen a few finished things with this method, not pictures of the process, so I'm skeptical. I'll also be testing out the paperclay coating method over an identical fiberglass-reinforced piece.

So I rebuilt the knee tabs-out.

100_0438.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr


100_0440.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr


100_0439.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr
I might see about mixing in dye or something next time just to help make sure it's covered well- white against white.. easy to miss spots.
 
Here's results of slushing smoothcast 300 inside the silicone-lined pepakura:

100_0443.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr


100_0445.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr

Brush strokes everywhere. It's also a bit thin at the edges. I think something like 65D with a thicker consistency would fare better in this application, and I've read that silicone can be thinned down with various stuff- that may alleviate the brush strokes showing through.
 
Here's results of slushing smoothcast 300 inside the silicone-lined pepakura:
[url]http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3744/9222904170_0d6078a4ec_z.jpg[/url]
100_0443.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr

[url]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/9220129939_1530eb4550_z.jpg[/url]
100_0445.JPG by makingawesome, on Flickr

Brush strokes everywhere. It's also a bit thin at the edges. I think something like 65D with a thicker consistency would fare better in this application, and I've read that silicone can be thinned down with various stuff- that may alleviate the brush strokes showing through.

If you ask me this being bone armour the brush strokes look really really awesome and add so much to the texture, I'd just leav them as they are! reinforced but as it is!
 
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