Iron Man mark 17 heartbreaker helmet build from 3d print (pic heavy) WIP

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sonicspeed

New Member

• Jun 23, 2013

• #1

I have been working on my heartbreaker helmet for a few months now and I think its time to start a post to keep track of my progress. I started with Parachristo's amazing model that he provided the STL file for. from that file I made a few test prints to get the scale correct. im using a 3d printer that I built from a design called a rostock. I can not print the helmet in one piece as its to big so I had to cut it up into 8 parts, each section took about 6 hours to print.

after printing all the parts I hot glued them all together

I used some body filler to fill all the seams between the parts

I used a large layer height on the prints to save time in printing, as a result you can see/feel all the layers so I had to sand them all down and add filler to smooth them out (same process as a pep at this point)

I put a coat of primer on to help me see the details better. I started using a metal glaze finishing putty at this point (its is more of a liquid than regular body filler and does not get air holes in it).

 

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sonicspeed

New Member

• Jun 23, 2013

• #2

after doing this step over and over for a week or so I got to a point where I was happy enough with it. so another coat of primer and it was ready for the mold process.

this was my first time ever making a mold so after many youtube videos and reading alot of posts I gave it a go

and time for the first casting using smooth cast 65D

 

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sonicspeed

New Member

• Jun 23, 2013

• #3

fast forward a week of making bad castings and today I have my first good cast (only took 5 attempts) first one was too thin (only 3 layers) 2nd one the silicone mold moved and the helmet looked like it had a dent in it. the 3rd one I waited too long between layers and they are all seperated. 4th one the silicone moved again (I think the silicone mold is too thin and I do not have enough registration marks in it) but today #5 came out good (did 5 layers to make sure it was not too thin)

the gray one on the left is the 3d printed one and the one on the right is the 5th one that came out good, I have experimented with different paints and ideas with the defective helmets. (attempting airbrushing for the first time too)

here are some up close pics of the good one

 

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sonicspeed

New Member

• Jun 23, 2013

• #4

I used some solid aluminum rod to make the top inserts and I thought it might look cool to put some leds behind them, what do you guys think
not sure if blue is the best color to use, im also testing ideas to have the faceplate open as well

 

streetsoul

Sr Member

• Jun 23, 2013

• #5

looks brilliant buddy keep it up

 

Kryro

Well-Known Member

• Jun 23, 2013

• #6

amazing work, I hope I can make my heartbreake as smooth as this. im using parachristo's file too, but im actually building it out of cardstock lol

I had the same idea as you too with the pipes in the top section of the helmet
keep us posted

 

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sonicspeed

New Member

• Jul 7, 2013

• #7

I finally got a good casting started painting it. I did not realize how long and tedious the painting process is with masking everything. plus having to wait long enough between colors to mask them off without the tape taking the paint with it (this happened a few times) I used a few different paints, the primer is a spray can, so is the red, the gold is the testors 1201 champagne gold. and the grey is a airbrush. I did heat up the spray cans with warm water and I think it did improve the spray quality.


there is a paint run on the front and you can see where the paint was removed with the tape. but I think it came out well for my first try, I still have to clearcoat it, but I do not like the color of the grey so I might redo that to more of a silver or something metallic.

 

sauer33

Active Member

• Jul 10, 2013

• #8

files please

 

Kryro

Well-Known Member

• Jul 10, 2013

• #9

He's already said he used parachristos file, look on his thread sauer33

 

Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018

sauer33

Active Member

• Jul 10, 2013

• #10

I know, i used them too but when i try to print my sliced version of the helmet the piece comes out all messed up.

 

ModJob

New Member

• Jul 10, 2013

• #11

Well perhaps it would of been more polite to ask a question about your problems instead of just saying 'files please'!?

Fantastic job sonicspeed, and you built your own 3d printer? How much did that set you back?

 

Murdoch

Sr Member

• Jul 10, 2013

• #12

Amazing work, bloody awesome...GM

 

made007

Sr Member

• Jul 10, 2013

• #13

Looking great there bud
Dont throw away those bad ccast maybe someone can repair them
You could still sell them cheaper

 

mracole

Well-Known Member

• Jul 10, 2013

• #14

awesome to see this file printed! been keen on trying it myself since it was uploaded, now i'm definitely going to have to buy more material in. Quick question, how did you split your STL files to fit?

 

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dariang

Member

• Jan 8, 2016

• #15

sonicspeed said:

fast forward a week of making bad castings and today I have my first good cast (only took 5 attempts) first one was too thin (only 3 layers) 2nd one the silicone mold moved and the helmet looked like it had a dent in it. the 3rd one I waited too long between layers and they are all seperated. 4th one the silicone moved again (I think the silicone mold is too thin and I do not have enough registration marks in it) but today #5 came out good (did 5 layers to make sure it was not too thin)

Click to expand...

Hey man, helmet looks great! I'm going to mould my arm for my suit this weekend (trying to do the indoor stuff during the winter), and I would like to know what you used for the pull, as well as how long you waited before adding the following layer (as this could help me avoid 5 attempts too)?

EDIT: Just noticed you said you used SmoothCast 65D , but I would still like to know your time in between layers. Thanks!

Thanks!
Darian

 

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misoga27

New Member

• Jan 23, 2016

• #16

hey bud mind sharing the file as the original link does not work anymore

 

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sonicspeed

New Member

• Feb 1, 2016

• #17

I will have to look for the files, I was not very good at file organization back then (now all my projects go into dropbox and are properly named) I might have them on a flash drive somewhere but I can not find them on my local machine.

 

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sonicspeed

New Member

• Feb 1, 2016

• #18

dariang said:

Hey man, helmet looks great! I'm going to mould my arm for my suit this weekend (trying to do the indoor stuff during the winter), and I would like to know what you used for the pull, as well as how long you waited before adding the following layer (as this could help me avoid 5 attempts too)?

EDIT: Just noticed you said you used SmoothCast 65D , but I would still like to know your time in between layers. Thanks!

Thanks!
Darian

Click to expand...

I live in florida and did these castings in the garage so it was really hot and high humidity. So depending on where you live and the temps, times may be different, but the time between layers is basically only a few minutes. I started alternating using red and blue dye with each layer to see where it was covering each coat. as soon as one of the layers did not move around anymore, I would mix up the next layer.