3D Printed Samus Varia Suit - FINISHED! (Pics on pg.14)

Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Hello, I think you are making the most incredible Varia Suit I've ever seen. I like how you use the 3d printer to create your parts in sections and put them together with glue I help a friend create parts with his 3d printer (it's a small desktop printer "Maker Bot") and I think he has experimented with this I'm glad to see it can work. For the foam pieces have you considered vacuum forming? You can make a basic one out of pegboard and a shop vacuum, it could add some rigidity to the foam parts with a thin layer of plastic, or use the plastic as a mold and reinforce it with fiber glass. I found your old blog and saw you moved to this forum and I'm glad I checked it out, thank you!
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

I'm trying my very hardest to get it done in time! I've been working 'round the clock and even took a week off work for this. Right now there's still quite a bit to finish but I've been keeping on track with my plan so I have high hopes!
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Looking good. Now i'm tempted to try the 2 samus armor pep files i have. Makes me wonder how accurate the new Figma figure of her varia suit is and if it'd help with the costume.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

After probably about 600 hours of work on this project so far, a week before PAX I determined I still had a good 100 hours left to go, so unfortunately I won't be wearing this at PAX this year. The parts I did complete look amazing and I'll try to post the belated pics of it all soon. It's kind of a good thing though. I'll have more time to get everything right and no more stressing myself out about getting it done in time. My new hope now is to maybe do it for Emerald City Comic Con or just PAX next year if anything.

I do have one problem I'm struggling with if anyone has any suggestions: from everything I've read it should be possible to use auto paint on foam without it cracking. I followed exactly what other people had done whose armor didn't crack, and yet mine is cracking. Not horribly, mind you, but enough that it's bothering me. I would have expected it to crack in the first place but somehow some people get it to magically work. Oh well. If I can't figure it out I'll either just leave it (which would really annoy the perfectionist in me) or find a new material to make those parts out of. I'm just really not looking forward to redoing like half the suit.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Hey Talaaya, did you seal the paint with a clear coat? Check out stealth's foam armor building tutorials, he covers it pretty well, you may find your solution there. Hope it helps
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

You'd mentioned before that you have access to an airbrush? If that's still the case, one option you have, is take the color you intend to use, and add liquid latex to it. It'll dry but stay flexible.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

to model the interior (to add thickness) I had to move each individual vertex to use the least amount of printing materials possible. It's a ton of work! Just the interior of the chest took me probably a good 8 hours or more.

that got me thinking, which in turn got me typing, this will spilt your mesh based on your hard edges then of set based on the variable at the top, cutting at the hard edges will get a much better result as the face normal isnt getting screwed by harsh angles, you will need to go round and fix all the seams still though, can't get my head around the maths to fix that :/

Code:
from pymel.core import *
#set offset here
offset = 0.2


obj = ls(sl=True)[0]
obj = duplicate(obj)[0]
polyNormal(nm=0)


parts = list()


edgesList = ls(sl=True)
faceTest = list()


allFaces = list()
for each in filterExpand(obj.faces, sm=34):
    allFaces.append(PyNode(each))
doneFaces = list()


for f in allFaces:
    if f not in doneFaces:


        faceList = [f]
        while True:
            edgesList = list()
            for face in faceList: 
                for each in face.getEdges():
                    temp = PyNode("%s.e[%d]" %(obj.getShape(), each) )
                    if temp not in edgesList:
                        edgesList.append(temp)
        
    
            faceList = list()
            for edge in edgesList:
                if edge.isSmooth():
                    temp = edge.connectedFaces()
                    for each in temp:
                        if each not in faceList:
                            faceList.append(each)
            if len(faceList) == len(faceTest):
                if len(faceList):
                    polyChipOff( faceList, kft=True, dup=False, off=0.0, ltz=offset ) 
                doneFaces.extend(faceList)           
                faceTest = list()
                break
            else:
                faceTest = list(faceList)
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

i'm also working on a Samus suit and was wondering if you have the other pepakura files for the rest of the suit separated like the other ones you have on your other site?
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Took a nice break after all the stress before PAX and I'm starting to ramp up work on this again! I'll update soon with a more comprehensive explanation of what I was doing in my hiatus just before the con (with pics)! For now I'll briefly explain what I've done recently.

I had heard about a thermoplastic called Worbla a couple times and decided to buy a sample to try it out. For those of you unaware of Worbla, it has just recently started making its way into the US. It comes in sheets which are brown and have a slight texture on one side; the other side is shinier, smoother, and has more adhesive. It sticks to itself as if you'd welded it together! To work with it all you need is scissors and a heat gun (or hot water, but I can't picture a scenario where that'd be helpful at all). It stretches and compresses enough that you can form it to just about any shape, even hemispherical ones. If you cut the wrong shape you can just butt up another piece against it (doesn't even have to be super accurate because you can moosh it around to fit) and the seam all but disappears! When cool, Worbla is hard but also has a little bit of flexibility. The only down side is the rough surface. It's not that rough, but if you want to get it smooth you need to coat it with a couple layers of gesso and then sand it. Simple though!

I was thinking I could remake my foam armor with this stuff instead since I wasn't satisfied with the paint and thought I could do a little better with the build quality. But then while researching the material I came across many people who use craft foam as a structural base; they wrap Worbla around the foam like a shell, and the foam creates the bulk of the shape. This is soooo perfect! I can just wrap my existing foam armor with Worbla, coat it with gesso, sand, and now I can paint without having to worry about creasing! Easy peasy!

So far I've only covered one of the bicep armors as a test, but it looks pretty damn awesome! I've been trying to decide if it'll be bad to cover the lower torso with it. I won't be bending over, but I don't need it pushing up on the chest when my hips are moving around or something.

The other thing I've been working on is painting the helmet. I painted it red before PAX but the gray tubes and mouth grill needed to be painted gray. Also I started experimenting with darkening crevices. If anyone has advice on blackwashing or painting on auto paint I'm all ears. It doesn't seem to like water based paints (acrylics). It just beads up and doesn't stick. I read that dish soap can break the surface tension but would it even be sticking? I'm guessing I just can't use acrylics. I successfully painted with spray paint by spraying some in a container and brushing it on, but it's not ideal at all since it dries so fast. It was more just a test to see if I could do it rather than a permanent solution to everything.

That's all for now! I should have time pretty soon to update about the pre-PAX shenanigans. Brace yourselves for the great Wall o' Text.

(extrusion script)

Thanks so much! I'll have to try this.

i'm also working on a Samus suit and was wondering if you have the other pepakura files for the rest of the suit separated like the other ones you have on your other site?

The pep files on my blog are the only ones I needed to make unfortunately. I've since updated my blog to note this fact.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Part one!

Man, is it difficult to get a hold of this copper paint. I had to go around to several auto parts stores, have new stock sent in, and also order some online to find enough. The stores either had one can or none. I ended up finding some on ebay. Anyway, here's what some of the armor looks like painted! I'll be weathering/blackwashing them later on.

Forearm and elbow:

RwMcyPv.jpg
vlhFkqv.jpg

Here you can see my Worbla-covered bicep next to the other one. The Worbla one is bent in on the inside where it meets my rib cage so it doesn't tilt the bicep downward on the outside of my arm. Worbla is so helpful!

FbziVcn.jpg
PMBLuRE.jpg

Notice the black lines on the Worbla here. Those are seams where I misjudged the shape I cut out. When you feel them you can only barely feel a seam! It's pretty easy to get the Worbla into the crevices of the bicep and stay sharp around corners.

B266g3p.jpg

If you poke the surface of the painted foam or even bend it slightly it holds together just fine (as you can see with the wrinkles on the left), but if it's bent a small amount it starts to crack. It doesn't matter anymore though since I'm just going to be covering all the paint with Worbla.

wYDqQN8.jpg

Shoes!

4U5gYpS.jpg

These are a pair of $20 shoes I found after a ton of searching. They're perfect! The soles look very convincing and don't have any brand marks or weird patterns. Most importantly the toe of the shoe isn't bulbous like many other shoes of this style are, and it has a nice heel on it like Samus'. After the paint is done there will be velcro to hold the tongue flap down so for the picture I held it in place.

Cracking on the shoe:

9L2LHxm.jpg

Shoe during painting and after:

s5mpdVo.jpg

The left one doesn't have the clear coat on it yet and is still masked off. The copper paint is very matte on foam/plastidip for some reason unless I clear coat it.


Next post I'll show the rest of the armor and hopefully the helmet!
 
Last edited:
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

The left one doesn't have the clear coat on it yet and is still masked off. The copper paint is very matte on foam/plastidip for some reason unless I clear coat it.
In my experience, most metallics are fairly flat until they're cleared.

The Worbla on top of the foam is a neat idea. Can't wait to see how that turns out.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

You may have persuaded me to take a more serious look at using foam. Well foam and Worbla that is :)
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

In my experience, most metallics are fairly flat until they're cleared.

The 3d prints didn't require a clear coat, and the plastidipped foam had a primer coat and silver coat under the copper so I can't imagine it was soaking in or something. Who knows.

You may have persuaded me to take a more serious look at using foam. Well foam and Worbla that is :)

Yay! I'm excited to see more people using Worbla.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

This is looking amazing! So glad you came back to post more progress pictures, this is one of my favorite builds.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

The painted worbla pieces look excellent. Really glad you found that stuff, it looks like it'll make your suit even better than it was going to be!
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

The 3d prints didn't require a clear coat, and the plastidipped foam had a primer coat and silver coat under the copper so I can't imagine it was soaking in or something. Who knows.
Well with all the prep work you did on the printed parts it's not surprising that it came out glossier. I'd still bet that a clear over them would really make it pop even further. Metallics and clear go together like chocolate and caramel.
 
This thread is more than 9 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top