3D Printed Samus Varia Suit - FINISHED! (Pics on pg.14)
- Thread starter Talaaya
- Start date
spnphoenix92
New Member
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit
I remember seeing the beginning of this build when you were still gonna use the pepakura method on another site, it's amazing that you've gone to 3d printing & how amazing this Samus cosplay is turning out! I'm definitely gonna follow this thread, you don't see many Samus builds, especially ones of this quality!
I remember seeing the beginning of this build when you were still gonna use the pepakura method on another site, it's amazing that you've gone to 3d printing & how amazing this Samus cosplay is turning out! I'm definitely gonna follow this thread, you don't see many Samus builds, especially ones of this quality!
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit
Yup. Stunning work.
Gorgeous finish you've acheived. It's so easy to just throw down some primer and paint and call it done. Paying extra attention on that final fit and finish really brings it to an epic level of quality you rarely see on a full body costume.
Any clue what your final budget will be for the suit?
Yup. Stunning work.
Gorgeous finish you've acheived. It's so easy to just throw down some primer and paint and call it done. Paying extra attention on that final fit and finish really brings it to an epic level of quality you rarely see on a full body costume.
Any clue what your final budget will be for the suit?
Talaaya
Well-Known Member
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit
The 3d printing alone cost about $1200. The rest is negligible in comparison, but if I had to guess (not including a lot of supplies) maybe another couple hundred.
Also, small update on my progress: The first thigh has been sanded more and yesterday I applied a thin coat of spot putty which I get to sand tonight. I'm super excited to see it all smooth! I worbla'd half of the second thigh. The 3d printer has had its checkup from the technician and is fully operational! The second elbow cap has been printed which was the last official piece left to print. I also printed a buck for the acrylic visor to form over to create just the right curve and crease angle. I was having trouble getting the angle right on my own, and it'd be impossible to get the slight curve without it. The printed shape is exactly the shape of the inside of the helmet where the visor goes so in theory it should fit perfectly!
So pretty soon, after a little more paint and some plastic bending, the helmet will be officially complete! (sans electronics)
The 3d printing alone cost about $1200. The rest is negligible in comparison, but if I had to guess (not including a lot of supplies) maybe another couple hundred.
Also, small update on my progress: The first thigh has been sanded more and yesterday I applied a thin coat of spot putty which I get to sand tonight. I'm super excited to see it all smooth! I worbla'd half of the second thigh. The 3d printer has had its checkup from the technician and is fully operational! The second elbow cap has been printed which was the last official piece left to print. I also printed a buck for the acrylic visor to form over to create just the right curve and crease angle. I was having trouble getting the angle right on my own, and it'd be impossible to get the slight curve without it. The printed shape is exactly the shape of the inside of the helmet where the visor goes so in theory it should fit perfectly!
So pretty soon, after a little more paint and some plastic bending, the helmet will be officially complete! (sans electronics)
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spnphoenix92
New Member
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit
I think in comparison to other ways of creating a professionally looking armor of this quality (i.e. clay, sculpting, casting, fibreglassing or very timeconsuming pep work) this is a very reasonable way to do this. I can´t wait to see the finished armor.
I think in comparison to other ways of creating a professionally looking armor of this quality (i.e. clay, sculpting, casting, fibreglassing or very timeconsuming pep work) this is a very reasonable way to do this. I can´t wait to see the finished armor.
Talaaya
Well-Known Member
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit
The only 3d printed pieces I won't be using are the shoulders because they're just too heavy.
Precisely. The extra money is a trade off for quality and the headache of trying to accomplish proper symmetry. Totally worth it. Still a ton of work though.
Edit: I know I haven't made an update post in a while, but there's one coming soon!
The only 3d printed pieces I won't be using are the shoulders because they're just too heavy.
Precisely. The extra money is a trade off for quality and the headache of trying to accomplish proper symmetry. Totally worth it. Still a ton of work though.
Edit: I know I haven't made an update post in a while, but there's one coming soon!
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Talaaya
Well-Known Member
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit
Update time!
I now have one of the thighs all ready for paint except for a few tiny spots (circled in black):
I ran out of gray primer so I just used white to check for imperfections. Harder to see since it's more transparent than gray, but it worked well enough.
The second thigh's worbla is complete and is ready for bondo:
The thighs fit like a freakin' GLOVE. I love it.
This weekend I started work on the first shin! Originally I was going to have it flex to wrap around my leg and velcro shut but since I'm making it hard with worbla, now I have to cut it into two pieces that will be held together with magnets and/or clips. Before I cut it though, I need to be sure the overall shape is good and that the two pieces will actually fit together after manipulating it with the worbla on it, so I'll be worbla'ing it as one big piece. Since the ankle hole is too small for my foot to fit through this meant I had to create an analog for the shin to be on. I made a quick duct tape cast of my leg and stuffed it with newspaper (like the big whole body mannequin, if you recall), and then hot glued the shin shut around it.
The shin before gluing it shut:
I cut in some V-shaped grooves that had gotten lost in the plastidip and weren't big enough in the first place (the red areas, which is the original red foam showing through after the cuts):
I also did one down the front center, creating a Y shape below the knee spike (done after this picture was taken).
Working on the shin!
The material with the grid on it is the pattern "paper" I use. It's a fabric-like material which you can find at fabric stores by the yard. It's nice and flexible which makes it way easier to work with than normal paper. I originally made the pattern for cutting the foam shapes out, but now I'm using it again to cut exactly the right shapes out of worbla!
Worbla is so awesome. It allows me to stretch the foam into shapes it would never hold by itself. Here I've warped the left side to be much more rounded:
Subtle curves just make this piece even more amazing. : D
I still need to reinforce the inside with worbla, but it's almost done!
Update time!
I now have one of the thighs all ready for paint except for a few tiny spots (circled in black):
I ran out of gray primer so I just used white to check for imperfections. Harder to see since it's more transparent than gray, but it worked well enough.
The second thigh's worbla is complete and is ready for bondo:
The thighs fit like a freakin' GLOVE. I love it.
This weekend I started work on the first shin! Originally I was going to have it flex to wrap around my leg and velcro shut but since I'm making it hard with worbla, now I have to cut it into two pieces that will be held together with magnets and/or clips. Before I cut it though, I need to be sure the overall shape is good and that the two pieces will actually fit together after manipulating it with the worbla on it, so I'll be worbla'ing it as one big piece. Since the ankle hole is too small for my foot to fit through this meant I had to create an analog for the shin to be on. I made a quick duct tape cast of my leg and stuffed it with newspaper (like the big whole body mannequin, if you recall), and then hot glued the shin shut around it.
The shin before gluing it shut:
I cut in some V-shaped grooves that had gotten lost in the plastidip and weren't big enough in the first place (the red areas, which is the original red foam showing through after the cuts):
I also did one down the front center, creating a Y shape below the knee spike (done after this picture was taken).
Working on the shin!
The material with the grid on it is the pattern "paper" I use. It's a fabric-like material which you can find at fabric stores by the yard. It's nice and flexible which makes it way easier to work with than normal paper. I originally made the pattern for cutting the foam shapes out, but now I'm using it again to cut exactly the right shapes out of worbla!
Worbla is so awesome. It allows me to stretch the foam into shapes it would never hold by itself. Here I've warped the left side to be much more rounded:
Subtle curves just make this piece even more amazing. : D
I still need to reinforce the inside with worbla, but it's almost done!
arctrooper
New Member
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit
I've read quite a few threads during my time here at the RPF, but wow. They all pale in comparison to the amount of informative instructions and guidelines that you've given. Not to mention that suit is fantastic and your keen eye for detail that continues to exceed any and all expectations I had for this build.
I've read quite a few threads during my time here at the RPF, but wow. They all pale in comparison to the amount of informative instructions and guidelines that you've given. Not to mention that suit is fantastic and your keen eye for detail that continues to exceed any and all expectations I had for this build.
Talaaya
Well-Known Member
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit
Oh yeah, I forgot to post this too.
The 3d printer is officially gone; it was sold yesterday. My living room feels so empty. : (
I recorded it printing before it went away though!
The way the printer works is it fills the printer bed with a super thin layer of powder, then the normal injket printer head applies a liquid binder to the powder layer where the object will be, which makes it solid. After it's done printing the object is very fragile. The excess powder has to be blown off with the air compressor which is housed in the right side of the printer. Then it's cured by dipping it in cyanoacrylate, also known as super glue.
I can't get over how fast it throws down the binder fluid into the powder!
It's printing a tiny version of the helmet so I can have one on my desk at work. :3
Oh yeah, I forgot to post this too.
The 3d printer is officially gone; it was sold yesterday. My living room feels so empty. : (
I recorded it printing before it went away though!
The way the printer works is it fills the printer bed with a super thin layer of powder, then the normal injket printer head applies a liquid binder to the powder layer where the object will be, which makes it solid. After it's done printing the object is very fragile. The excess powder has to be blown off with the air compressor which is housed in the right side of the printer. Then it's cured by dipping it in cyanoacrylate, also known as super glue.
I can't get over how fast it throws down the binder fluid into the powder!
It's printing a tiny version of the helmet so I can have one on my desk at work. :3
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Talaaya
Well-Known Member
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit
Again, I can't thank you guys enough for all the encouragement. It really helps keep me motivated seeing how much everyone else is loving my work!
(Oopsies, meant this to be part of the previous post and not a double) <_<
Again, I can't thank you guys enough for all the encouragement. It really helps keep me motivated seeing how much everyone else is loving my work!
(Oopsies, meant this to be part of the previous post and not a double) <_<
Shinrai
New Member
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit
This thread is amazing, you're amazing, can't wait to see this finished.
I will also echo the other posters that those gloves are AMAZING and now I have to try something like that with Worbla. Was it difficult to get the sizing correct on the pieces (given that you're starting from something flat it seems like it could be tricky...)?
This thread is amazing, you're amazing, can't wait to see this finished.
I will also echo the other posters that those gloves are AMAZING and now I have to try something like that with Worbla. Was it difficult to get the sizing correct on the pieces (given that you're starting from something flat it seems like it could be tricky...)?
Talaaya
Well-Known Member
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit
Thank you! : D
It wasn't too bad to size the pieces. What I did was put on the glove liner, heat up a piece of worbla roughly the shape I thought it'd be (usually just started with a rectangle to make a cylinder around my finger), and wrap it around my finger. Then I'd draw lines on it with a sharpie where I needed to trim, take it off, trim it, put it back on, draw more lines, and repeat. Occasionally I'd need to reheat parts of it and reshape it.
Thank you! : D
It wasn't too bad to size the pieces. What I did was put on the glove liner, heat up a piece of worbla roughly the shape I thought it'd be (usually just started with a rectangle to make a cylinder around my finger), and wrap it around my finger. Then I'd draw lines on it with a sharpie where I needed to trim, take it off, trim it, put it back on, draw more lines, and repeat. Occasionally I'd need to reheat parts of it and reshape it.
NeatNit
New Member
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit
I signed up to this forum just so I could subscribed to this thread (like you instructed in the blog), so I guess it goes without saying that YOU ARE AMAZING and THIS BUILD IS AMAZING. I, too, can't wait to see the final product. What will you do after you finish it? Suddenly, a lot of free time...
The 3D printers that use powder the way you described are by far the best ones. They can print complex shapes and overhangs without any issues. They're also the most expensive, I hear.
It's amazing that you had the opportunity to use one! I'm jealous! (even though I wouldn't have had a single thing to print, if I did have access to one).
Keep on being awesome, will continue stalking this thread
I signed up to this forum just so I could subscribed to this thread (like you instructed in the blog), so I guess it goes without saying that YOU ARE AMAZING and THIS BUILD IS AMAZING. I, too, can't wait to see the final product. What will you do after you finish it? Suddenly, a lot of free time...
The 3D printers that use powder the way you described are by far the best ones. They can print complex shapes and overhangs without any issues. They're also the most expensive, I hear.
It's amazing that you had the opportunity to use one! I'm jealous! (even though I wouldn't have had a single thing to print, if I did have access to one).
Keep on being awesome, will continue stalking this thread
Talaaya
Well-Known Member
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit
Hehehehe...I already have the perfect idea. อิ‿อิ
Haha, yay, thanks!
Hehehehe...I already have the perfect idea. อิ‿อิ
Talaaya
Well-Known Member
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit
Okay, so lesson learned. Don't put bondo on worbla...at least not without roughing it up first with sandpaper. Bondo doesn't adhere to raw worbla so it just peels off. So far my tests of sanding worbla with 80 grit before applying the bondo appear to be working though. Previously, for the first thigh, I had applied a layer of wood glue before the bondo. While that seems to hold the bondo on it causes issues while sanding, mostly because the glue sands slower than the bondo which causes more bumps. What a headache.
I'll be spending the rest of today bondo'ing stuff, but I did a few other things recently:
I finished worbla'ing the first shin (reinforcing the inside and cleaning up edges and seams), then cut it in half. I haven't cleaned up the cut edges yet.
It's very, very snug; comfortable, but I'm a little concerned about fitting lights down the sides if it's pressed up right against my leg. There's no real easy way to make more space inside, so I started re-thinking the kind of lights I'll be using. I did a bit more research and now I have my hopes set on EL tape. I knew about this before but ruled it out because EL wire is very dim, so I assumed the same about EL tape. This tape, however, seems to be made more for commercial uses and I'm betting it's pretty bright, at least bright enough for me. I ordered a sample which should arrive in 1-2 weeks. I'm so excited to see it! It comes in different widths, can be cut, and comes in the perfect color: "kryptonite".
If this works out this will make things SO much easier. *crosses fingers*
I also worbla'd the second bicep and both shoe tongues, which just leaves the last shin to worbla! I'm holding off on doing that until I figure out what exactly I'm doing with the lights.
Here you can see the right tongue has been roughed up:
And bondo applied to the inside:
I added detail grunge paint to the crevices of the first bicep, first shoe, and both halves of the forearm armor.
I figured out how to keep the two forearm halves together too. To keep them from moving around against each other I simply hot glued some worbla tabs on the inside, locking them in place when they're lined up. Later I'll add velcro, snaps, or elastic to keep the halves pressed together.
Okay, so lesson learned. Don't put bondo on worbla...at least not without roughing it up first with sandpaper. Bondo doesn't adhere to raw worbla so it just peels off. So far my tests of sanding worbla with 80 grit before applying the bondo appear to be working though. Previously, for the first thigh, I had applied a layer of wood glue before the bondo. While that seems to hold the bondo on it causes issues while sanding, mostly because the glue sands slower than the bondo which causes more bumps. What a headache.
I'll be spending the rest of today bondo'ing stuff, but I did a few other things recently:
I finished worbla'ing the first shin (reinforcing the inside and cleaning up edges and seams), then cut it in half. I haven't cleaned up the cut edges yet.
It's very, very snug; comfortable, but I'm a little concerned about fitting lights down the sides if it's pressed up right against my leg. There's no real easy way to make more space inside, so I started re-thinking the kind of lights I'll be using. I did a bit more research and now I have my hopes set on EL tape. I knew about this before but ruled it out because EL wire is very dim, so I assumed the same about EL tape. This tape, however, seems to be made more for commercial uses and I'm betting it's pretty bright, at least bright enough for me. I ordered a sample which should arrive in 1-2 weeks. I'm so excited to see it! It comes in different widths, can be cut, and comes in the perfect color: "kryptonite".
If this works out this will make things SO much easier. *crosses fingers*
I also worbla'd the second bicep and both shoe tongues, which just leaves the last shin to worbla! I'm holding off on doing that until I figure out what exactly I'm doing with the lights.
Here you can see the right tongue has been roughed up:
And bondo applied to the inside:
I added detail grunge paint to the crevices of the first bicep, first shoe, and both halves of the forearm armor.
I figured out how to keep the two forearm halves together too. To keep them from moving around against each other I simply hot glued some worbla tabs on the inside, locking them in place when they're lined up. Later I'll add velcro, snaps, or elastic to keep the halves pressed together.
