Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber

roy thats awesome news! as for the graflex clamp, has anyone been able to remove the box bar off it? is it hard to do?

do you mean the clamp sidebars?

here's a picture (not mine) of a disassembled clamp, once you unscrew the clamp lever the sidebars just fall off as they're only held in place by the tension of the lever screw

Roy - thats great about your lever, I'm especially pleased that you'll be including the screw & nut :)
looking at my various real & replica clamps they seem to have a few different screw threading between them so if you provide the screw & the nut we won't have to worry about which clamp type we use

the long lever I had from Pastor Jedi for my Russrep V2 only fitted my real sidebars
 

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do you mean the clamp sidebars?

here's a picture (not mine) of a disassembled clamp, once you unscrew the clamp lever the sidebars just fall off as they're only held in place by the tension of the lever screw

Roy - thats great about your lever, I'm especially pleased that you'll be including the screw & nut :)
looking at my various real & replica clamps they seem to have a few different screw threading between them so if you provide the screw & the nut we won't have to worry about which clamp type we use

the long lever I had from Pastor Jedi for my Russrep V2 only fitted my real sidebars


paul thanks, i never took my clamp apart so i didn't know the bars fell right off, thanks for explaining
 
I had no clue some graflex clamps had different threading. Thank god my Skywalker Ranch Saber had the same threading, or that brass screw wouldn't have fit!

to slothfurnace and roy, sounds really great! Thank you again
 
I had no clue some graflex clamps had different threading. Thank god my Skywalker Ranch Saber had the same threading, or that brass screw wouldn't have fit!

to slothfurnace and roy, sounds really great! Thank you again

The original Parks clamps had different threading, and possibly the old Larbels.

The correct threading on a real Graflex clamp is 5/40.
 
Playing around with this circuit board design a little bit more. I squashed it a bit and resized the silver lines and such. What do people think about the tops of the gold contacts? Are they completely rounded or angled or straight across?

Cantina%20Dudes%20V2%20circuit%20board%202_zpsxvtlpr5m.jpg
 
hey folks,
I made some small modifications to the lever design. I post it here for review and if you agree, I will start the run next week.
The lever includes the screw, rectangular nut and rectangular back-plate. The lever will be nickel plated brass, the rest will be in stainless steel. The Graflex clamp is NOT included.
The current price estimation is $30 (including shipping worldwide). This is not cheap, but because of the special lever shape, each lever is CNC machined and polished.
I will do a run of 100 units, but I will make more if they run out. All sales will be through www.WannaWanga.com
If some of you want the end-tip bend stronger, it's maybe best if they do so themselves at their own preference.

CAD-2.png CAD-1.png
v2-lever.2732.jpg v2-lever.2736.jpg v2-lever.2737.jpg

-Roy
 
Playing around with this circuit board design a little bit more. I squashed it a bit and resized the silver lines and such. What do people think about the tops of the gold contacts? Are they completely rounded or angled or straight across?

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b71/cantinadude/Cantina Dudes V2 circuit board 2_zpsxvtlpr5m.jpg

When thinking about those wide traces, the gold is only there because it's electroplated to the wider trace. The line between gold and silver could be irregular, as that's where they stopped plating the contacts with gold.

The cards I get made will be gold plated, and then to get the screen accuracy out of it, I'll (or you'll) have to solder a layer of silver across the thin traces, stopping where the wide traces begin.

That's going to be time intensive, so I will be offering this card in two versions, like in the past. A non silver-soldered only gold plated version, for you DIYers, and a deluxe, silver soldered version that I solder up, at a higher price. Because, damn. That takes some time to solder all these things, clean off excess solder, acetone clean the rosin, make sure it's correct, etc. etc.




Also, Wow, Roy, that looks great. Remind me to ping you sometime about the 3d modelling package you use, and what industry you're in. I am a 3D modeller for the games industry, mostly 3dStudio MAX. You're doing a great job on that model.
 
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Lever Looks awesome to me Roy :)

Sloth, sounds great for the circuit card, I'll definitely be in for a soldered one (not a hope of doing it myself :lol)

thanks to to both of you for doing this, can't wait
 
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Also, Wow, Roy, that looks great. Remind me to ping you sometime about the 3d modelling package you use, and what industry you're in. I am a 3D modeller for the games industry, mostly 3dStudio MAX. You're doing a great job on that model.

Thanks! I am an industrial design engineer (www.roygilsing.com) and I work mainly with Solidworks and occasionally Rhino3D.
 
When thinking about those wide traces, the gold is only there because it's electroplated to the wider trace. The line between gold and silver could be irregular, as that's where they stopped plating the contacts with gold.

The cards I get made will be gold plated, and then to get the screen accuracy out of it, I'll (or you'll) have to solder a layer of silver across the thin traces, stopping where the wide traces begin.

That's going to be time intensive, so I will be offering this card in two versions, like in the past. A non silver-soldered only gold plated version, for you DIYers, and a deluxe, silver soldered version that I solder up, at a higher price. Because, damn. That takes some time to solder all these things, clean off excess solder, acetone clean the rosin, make sure it's correct, etc. etc.




Also, Wow, Roy, that looks great. Remind me to ping you sometime about the 3d modelling package you use, and what industry you're in. I am a 3D modeller for the games industry, mostly 3dStudio MAX. You're doing a great job on that model.

Ok count me in for at least 3 deluxe boards, I'm not that great at soldering!

Regards,

Alberto
 
Hey Roy nice progress ... question will the screw-thread of that lever also fit a genuine G R A F L E X sidebar?

Chaim

For now a metric M3 thread will be tapped, but I will check if it can be done with an ANSI 5-40, just like the Graflex clamp has.
 
@roygilsing & @slothfurnace - Congratulations, gentlemen. You have both earned and proven your worth to the human race.:p

I say the card and lever are good to go, I don't think we're gonna get any closer than it is now, unless clear, up-close photos of the individual pieces surface (which I doubt will happen).

As for the clamps, are Roman's chrome ones the only option, right now? I know that for the Russ-run we paired it up with Parks' clamps as a package thing, but with him doing his changes, I don't know anyone else that might be doing them.
 
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As for the clamps, are Roman's chrome ones the only option, right now? I know that for the Russ-run we paired it up with Parks' clamps as a package thing, but with him doing his changes, I don't know anyone else that might be doing them.

I bought a clamp from Roman a few weeks back & he did say that he was "almost out of all clamps", looking at his website both the regular & chrome ones say temporarily only available with kit

I'm hoping that he's back in stock soon (do we know if he's redoing the clamps for his upcoming Graflex run or keeping the same?), not sure if parks still has clamps in stock?

On a seperate note I finally got over my fear of drilling in to lightsabers & decided to try & drill the various holes in to my ropey aluminium Shared Stunt

just used my trusty little hand drill & did it slowly, even managed to ghetto tap a set screw, gives me some confidence that I'll be able to add any extra holes to the new run V2 :lol
 

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Roman had indicated to me that he'd have more when he got info on the Graflex replicas, so it might be a bit? I was gonna order from Parks, but shipping was 20 bucks on a 35 dollar clamp? I don't friggin think so.
 

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