Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber

Do you mean that the width of the rectangle tapers down as the chunk goes into the hole?
yeah, it's kinda hard to explain without a photo, but yes.
I bought my chunk in preparation for my build and it's an even square on all sides. What I see in the shots from page 69, it's not even going into the pommel. If the square is 1/4 inch on all sides, it looks as if the top to the pommel is 1/8.
 
this is very crude, but i always believed the edges of the mystery chunk were at a angle. the wider part of the chunk is on the bottom. like a pyramid with the top cut off

mysterychunk.jpg


to me, i can see this happening when hammering soft aluminum into a tiny hole, its getting jammed inside, and now the walls of the square stock are being "smushed"

- - - Updated - - -

here you can see i've filed the edges of the chunk on a angle
IMG_7121.jpg
 
But as you know, hammering creates a mushroom top. With all the 100 of ground rods I have driven, this is the first thing I could think off when you mentioned them hammering the chunk in,
 
But as you know, hammering creates a mushroom top. With all the 100 of ground rods I have driven, this is the first thing I could think off when you mentioned them hammering the chunk in,

i know you would think it should happen the other way, with the top mushrooming over. but if you are pitching the bar in a tiny hole, the sides will expand, once the sides cant move anymore, the top will then mushroom over.

you know me, once i can find some square stock (im surfing lowes as we speak) im going to do some test runs

another question i always had is... is the mystery chunk aluminum?! its a very dark color. is it a titanium instead? i doubt titanium will wrap like that with it being such a harder metal... but i wonder why it looks so dirty.. which also makes me think it was some kind of square stock used for a keyway... like when you double keyway a crank

crank keyway
hrdp_0606_06_zsupercharged_LS1_Gen_IIIcrank_keyway.jpg
 
i know you would think it should happen the other way, with the top mushrooming over. but if you are pitching the bar in a tiny hole, the sides will expand, once the sides cant move anymore, the top will then mushroom over.

you know me, once i can find some square stock (im surfing lowes as we speak) im going to do some test runs

another question i always had is... is the mystery chunk aluminum?! its a very dark color. is it a titanium instead? i doubt titanium will wrap like that with it being such a harder metal... but i wonder why it looks so dirty.. which also makes me think it was some kind of square stock used for a keyway... like when you double keyway a crank

crank keyway
http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums..._06_zsupercharged_LS1_Gen_IIIcrank_keyway.jpg
Good point. I am glad I bought the oil finished chunk. What if we just drilled the hole deeper and hammer in chunk in deeper. I can get you an oil finish chunk
 
Good point. I am glad I bought the oil finished chunk. What if we just drilled the hole deeper and hammer in chunk in deeper.

before we all start hammering chunks into our V2's we should all be aware, this could crack and destroy the saber. ANOTHER THING, if people are hitting these with hammers, be sure to wear eye protection!!! though aluminum is pretty soft, anything is possible and if the hammer shatters... it would suck to get a piece of hardened steel in your eyes

i will not touch my V2 until I've done serval trails

- - - Updated - - -

30 years of hard livin'.

i understand but it still stands out to me here
lukeje10.jpg


maybe kevin is on to something, and it was originally some kind of keyway, that would explain it being dark, stained from oil
 
As far as beating it in place, what if we just drilled the hole deeper and then a counter sink hole. Just deep enough to drive the chunk in without going crazy or over doing it. Even if the hole is not tapped but drilled wider, we can use a little JB weld to hold it place.
 
As far as beating it in place, what if we just drilled the hole deeper and then a counter sink hole. Just deep enough to drive the chunk in without going crazy or over doing it. Even if the hole is not tapped but drilled wider, we can use a little JB weld to hold it place.

honestly i say "beat it in" but i would probably put it in my dads press. which in the end could come out devastating, this is why i want to grab some thick flat stock and try different attempts. if i have to, i will use some kind of bonding agent on it.

im really afraid to hit this saber real hard... depending on my test results i may say screw it and just keep the threaded chunk :wacko
 
...heat the square stock until she changes color, and drop it in a bucket of engine oil. you can find guys "blueing" old guns this way.

This is actually how I darkened and weathered by RussRep OWK parts.

...im really afraid to hit this saber real hard... depending on my test results i may say screw it and just keep the threaded chunk :wacko

I may just stick to altering my set screw as you have. I did something similar with my last V2 from another run by another member and wound up slightly warping the pommel/booster section by being too forceful with it. I did manage to correct it for the most part but it always had a slight warped look to it as a result.
 
honestly i say "beat it in" but i would probably put it in my dads press. which in the end could come out devastating, this is why i want to grab some thick flat stock and try different attempts. if i have to, i will use some kind of bonding agent on it.

im really afraid to hit this saber real hard... depending on my test results i may say screw it and just keep the threaded chunk :wacko
I wish we had the smoking gun photo, but I guess this is as close as we can get.
 
I may just stick to altering my set screw as you have. I did something similar with my last V2 from another run by another member and wound up slightly warping the pommel/booster section by being too forceful with it. I did manage to correct it for the most part but it always had a slight warped look to it as a result.

exactly, this is my fear. :cry ill see where it goes with the test pieces. i dont want to risk damaging the saber. im so curious as to what the inside of the V2 looks like!! that would shed some light on the chunk as well
 
This is actually how I darkened and weathered by RussRep OWK parts.



I may just stick to altering my set screw as you have. I did something similar with my last V2 from another run by another member and wound up slightly warping the pommel/booster section by being too forceful with it. I did manage to correct it for the most part but it always had a slight warped look to it as a result.

That's why I was thinking about just drilling the deeper hole with a counter sink. One good hit with a hammer should do it.
 
again tomorrow night the show airs right? anyone here going to be watching it? we may get further explanations tomorrow
 
Ive been waiting all week for it!

I'm really stuck on this one. He said at Celebration it was aluminum so if they hammered steel into it I think the saber would have bent/ deformed well before the steel did.

again tomorrow night the show airs right? anyone here going to be watching it? we may get further explanations tomorrow
 
...I'm really stuck on this one. He said at Celebration it was aluminum so if they hammered steel into it I think the saber would have bent/ deformed well before the steel did.
It would depend on which type of aluminum and what condition it was in (metallurgically speaking, that is). Heat treated aluminum can be harder than annealed (softened) steel, and we really have no exact details that describe how the prop department assembled these hilts. And, yes, I worked for a heat treating facility for 18.5 years.
 
I´m gonna 3d print this "mistery chunk" i just modeled in stainless steel material. I see the chunk in the photos is bigger than the set screws i purchased and also is not squared shaped.
I will use just for a test, wating for more clear pictures to be as accurate as possible. Prints are a bit rough, but i think would work for this specific piece.
Let see how it works :)

chunk.jpg

Also just seen this capture from a guy at facebook. THis confirms that starkiller is very accurate. Still noticing that the booster is a bit shorter than starkiller´s one, but is the most accurate to date IMO.

16112918_1584831211532400_3635221544552461021_o.jpg
 
Last edited:

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top