I think that's a set screw but I can't be sure if it's paint chips or my eyes.
Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber
- Thread starter ob1al
- Start date
I think that's a set screw but I can't be sure if it's paint chips or my eyes.
Thanks for that. If you see anything else, please keep the info coming.
Let's make sure it's right, first.
@BAlinger15 - How many holes/set screws are in the saber and where are they exactly?
Also, if the pommel is free moving, then I guess this wouldn't matter, but if it's stationary, the hole should be above the cube on right of the d-ring holes. If we're going off how it looks like in this:
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I modeled the pommel and body as separate pieces, so they're just roughly positioned next to each other in the above shots
Can you change your perspective mode from orthographic to perspective? It's really throwing me off with that middle screenshot.
SB
Yeah me too. I'm not sure if the software I'm playing with has that option though
Dan, I think these are excellent. Any oddities I saw were just tricks of the eye from positioning. At first I thought the nipple was too wide and flat, but from a different orientation it looks spot on. You even got the rounded edge at the bottom of the booster section, nice work!
Already asked. No joy
Ebeneezer Jones
New Member
What is the overall length of the V2...?
Thinking of making me one.
Thinking of making me one.
my model clocks in at 29.04cm (with the nipple)
The original shared stunt is 27.8cm
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As to the holes above the clamp.
I think I see them too. But, I think I'll leave them off the model and people can always add the holes later if they want
The original shared stunt is 27.8cm
- - - Updated - - -
As to the holes above the clamp.
I think I see them too. But, I think I'll leave them off the model and people can always add the holes later if they want
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Ebeneezer Jones
New Member
Thanks for the reply.
I'll most probably end up making it about a dozen or so times anyway, LOL. I guess i have a start now.
I'll most probably end up making it about a dozen or so times anyway, LOL. I guess i have a start now.
cayman shen
Master Member
Good idea where there's any question or uncertainty...it's a lot harder to fill a hole than make one!
I'm just shooting in the dark, but if they are there, they'd probably be similar set screws to the emitter nipple.
This is is hard, imagine the chamber inside - with a threaded mount for the motor, that would totally change the weight, as well as the moving parts. If I were doing this, I'd wait for more construction details. I think visually we (or you, Dan) have this down to 99% accuracy.
This is is hard, imagine the chamber inside - with a threaded mount for the motor, that would totally change the weight, as well as the moving parts. If I were doing this, I'd wait for more construction details. I think visually we (or you, Dan) have this down to 99% accuracy.
RexKramer
Sr Member
If you apply your paint and wait just enough until it settles, you can use a rolled up length of Gorilla tape and give it some firm taps to remove the paint.
This gives pretty convincing weathering results:
Or you can do it "for real". That's what I did.
Painted my Russ V2 black, threw it in a bucket with other metal bits and bobs, shook it up, used various hand tools to scrape off the certain areas (if you're using enamels, I found a good trick where if you wet your hands and just handle the saber, it'll scrape off tiny little flakes), rolled/dropped/kicked it around on the ground, and touched up areas with a q-tip and some more black enamel. Season to taste.
