morkar78
Active Member
Re: Halo costume
Ciao guys. I'm almost ready to start the hardening of my armour... I need a tips about the bondo. Can someone point me some good tutorial about how to apply the bondo? Is this good one:
Bondo 261 Lightweight Filler Pint Can - 14 oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive
Ciao guys. I'm almost ready to start the hardening of my armour... I need a tips about the bondo. Can someone point me some good tutorial about how to apply the bondo? Is this good one:
Bondo 261 Lightweight Filler Pint Can - 14 oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive
Hexvas
Well-Known Member
Re: Halo costume
Amazon.com: 3M Low-Maintenance Half-Mask Organic Vapor, P95 Respirator Assembly
You'll want and need one of these, and be sure it's for organic vapors. ^
Typically you'll use your choice of resin to first harden and give some structure to your pieces. After your comfortable with the firmness, you would again use resin to apply fiberglass and give it the majority of its rigidity. Once that's all said and done a body filler, like the one you linked above, is used to even out surfaces and help give you the desired surface treatment before painting. Depending on the amount of spread you want with the Bondo, as it is somewhat thick out of the can (for my taste anyways) you can add Bondo brand resin to the Body filler to make it spread thinner, which is also often referred to as Rondo ( resin and Bondo).
There are a fair amount of body fillers and resins out there but it'd probably be best to pick a brand and stick with it for the best compatibility. I myself am most familiar with the Bondo brand body filler and resin, it will get the job done but there are other options and types of resins out there. See link below for a more well informed descriptions, pros, and cons.
http://www.therpf.com/f11/casting-fiberglass-resin-61350/
Amazon.com: 3M Low-Maintenance Half-Mask Organic Vapor, P95 Respirator Assembly
You'll want and need one of these, and be sure it's for organic vapors. ^
Typically you'll use your choice of resin to first harden and give some structure to your pieces. After your comfortable with the firmness, you would again use resin to apply fiberglass and give it the majority of its rigidity. Once that's all said and done a body filler, like the one you linked above, is used to even out surfaces and help give you the desired surface treatment before painting. Depending on the amount of spread you want with the Bondo, as it is somewhat thick out of the can (for my taste anyways) you can add Bondo brand resin to the Body filler to make it spread thinner, which is also often referred to as Rondo ( resin and Bondo).
There are a fair amount of body fillers and resins out there but it'd probably be best to pick a brand and stick with it for the best compatibility. I myself am most familiar with the Bondo brand body filler and resin, it will get the job done but there are other options and types of resins out there. See link below for a more well informed descriptions, pros, and cons.
http://www.therpf.com/f11/casting-fiberglass-resin-61350/
Re: Halo costume
Wow! That's some really nice Pep' work. The detail on the thighs is to die for.
Have you had those pieces finished in card stock long? I pep'd a helmet a week ago, and I keep hearing about how the card stock warps/absorbs water over time, but I haven't seen that happen (It probably helps I'm in SoCal where the weather is generally dry). Are you seeing any warping after leaving your parts un-resined?
Wow! That's some really nice Pep' work. The detail on the thighs is to die for.
Have you had those pieces finished in card stock long? I pep'd a helmet a week ago, and I keep hearing about how the card stock warps/absorbs water over time, but I haven't seen that happen (It probably helps I'm in SoCal where the weather is generally dry). Are you seeing any warping after leaving your parts un-resined?
laxman09
Active Member
Re: Halo costume
hope im not too late to the game, i would suggest a combonation of both foam and paper, paper for the rigid parts that you would like to say completely solid (arms, helmet, legs, chest?) and have the parts that you would like more flexible in foam (cod piece, gloves) because i'm sure sitting down in a rigid but strong cod piece would still have me worrying.
hope im not too late to the game, i would suggest a combonation of both foam and paper, paper for the rigid parts that you would like to say completely solid (arms, helmet, legs, chest?) and have the parts that you would like more flexible in foam (cod piece, gloves) because i'm sure sitting down in a rigid but strong cod piece would still have me worrying.
laxman09
Active Member
Re: Halo costume
yeah i didnt think of it when i made my iron man costume, but would've been great to know at the time. i suppose you could still be able to sit in a rigid fiberglass if you layer it a bit more than the other pieces, not sure how comfortable sitting would be though
yeah i didnt think of it when i made my iron man costume, but would've been great to know at the time. i suppose you could still be able to sit in a rigid fiberglass if you layer it a bit more than the other pieces, not sure how comfortable sitting would be though
laxman09
Active Member
Re: Halo costume
very true, guess you're stuck standing the whole time haha, as for sanding, i usually use an electric disk sander when i can, mainly to grind down excess bondo quickly. then i follow up with some 80 grit paper, then 220, etc
how are you laying your bondo on? thin layers, or one thick layer?
very true, guess you're stuck standing the whole time haha, as for sanding, i usually use an electric disk sander when i can, mainly to grind down excess bondo quickly. then i follow up with some 80 grit paper, then 220, etc
how are you laying your bondo on? thin layers, or one thick layer?
morkar78
Active Member
Re: Halo costume
Guys,
I've applied a coat of resin on the sword, and it get more soak instead of hard...I guess that it is because it is close and because the resin produce heat when it dries up....Is that correct? Did it ever happen to you? Any other technique to hard the sword?
Guys,
I've applied a coat of resin on the sword, and it get more soak instead of hard...I guess that it is because it is close and because the resin produce heat when it dries up....Is that correct? Did it ever happen to you? Any other technique to hard the sword?
morkar78
Active Member
Re: Halo costume
These are two pieces at which I've applied the first coat of bondo, and sand it. This is the result. The question is: since this is my first time, is this a normal, bad, or good result? Are all the holes and imperfections normal or I've applied the bondo wrongly?
Other questions:
I need another coat of bondo, right?
Is there a quicker way? Halloween is coming....
If the armor will not be ready for Halloween (thing that look very likely), is it possible to paint the "not-bondoed" pieces with just the color (no primer), wear it for Halloween, and the bondo the armor over the painting?
Thanks for your help!!!!
These are two pieces at which I've applied the first coat of bondo, and sand it. This is the result. The question is: since this is my first time, is this a normal, bad, or good result? Are all the holes and imperfections normal or I've applied the bondo wrongly?
Other questions:
I need another coat of bondo, right?
Is there a quicker way? Halloween is coming....
If the armor will not be ready for Halloween (thing that look very likely), is it possible to paint the "not-bondoed" pieces with just the color (no primer), wear it for Halloween, and the bondo the armor over the painting?
Thanks for your help!!!!
