MPC Cygnus

One more side bar... There hasn't been a decent model of Cygnus' counterpart, Palomino... until now. Kremmen By Kremmen on Shapeways has two sizes of Palomino of which I've purchased the larger of the two (1.192 designation) which consisted of five sections (Upper and Lower Hull, two different antenna sets, and the Power Deck) The Power Deck was held up and was subjected to rework (and a price increase). The complete model is 8.5" long and the hull is 4" in diameter (the thrusters have a 5" span). The model goes together rather nicely. except for two minor issues. First, one of the three recesses for the Power Deck struts needs some trimming (see the fourth picture, the triangle to the right with the ink outline). Second, I found that filing down the top of the three struts made for a better fit (the Power Deck is a bit more brittle than the rest of the model).
The finished product is well executed and I might take some time off to give it a proper paint job. Thanks Nwerke!
1palomino.JPG 1palomino1.JPG 1palomino3.JPG 1palomino4.jpg
 
And good day folks. Afraid that my wife gave my beloved Lappy (Lap top) a virus. So I now have to learn to work an I-pad. I'm away from Project Cygnus but hope to have somehting big in a couple of weeks.
 
Greetings folks, I'm not dead. Had to take a break from Cygnus to tend to other model stuff...and life. I'm getting used to the I-pad that I am FORCED to use (thanks DEAR) but I still have all of my data, Frankpr01. I want to finish this before my retirement but have got to quit striving for absolute perfection ( this is my personal curse that has made life difficult at times).
 
Hello guy's new here .. this is awesome to find this thread..
I have the mpc kit and just scored an extra center hull..
I really have no clue as to how much to add and what else I'm lacking
But I'm not striving for perfection as far as 100 % accuracy !
Just know I want her longer any help on that would be awesome and where I should do so...???
 
Thanks for the support Frank and GF. I'll be getting back to Cygnus around summer. I'm currently working a couple of projects for this years model show (and don't want to wait till the last minute). I'll put up some pictures soon of the large pressure vessel that I made to complete the next step in this project. However, for now, all of this project is packed away (lack of space sucks sometimes).
As for you empiflake, check the Cygnus built by James E. Small, a professional builder who did his (for a client) model by the two into one method. If you can hang loose for a few days I'll see if I can get some info up to help you. I only have one untouched kit left but I can use it to show you where the cut lines are.
 
I haven't forgotten you Empiflake. Things have gone sideways for me this past week (major shakeup at the family business and the death of a close friend) but will get to you soon.
 
The Cygnus isn't my favourite ship, however you are doing a stupendous job in making this look just like on the screen with so much attention to detail.

TazMan2000
 
Thanks Tazman2000, hope your in for the long haul (because that's what it's become). Now for you Empiflake...we'll do this in two parts. First, the top section. Since you have to work with the tank details on the top, you are limited to where you can cut. I have some pictures with arrows to help. I'll keep the tutorial short since this site and my I-pad don't get along for long sessions.

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I'm doing this again because of this stupid I-pad...Alright, for the top section you are working the end marked 'F'. The target is the straight line between the four smaller 'X's shown in the picture. That is in line with the simular section in the central corridor. Second cut is to be made on the spare part that you have. That front piece of 'second cut' goes onto the big piece of 'first cut'. The idea is for the seam to be in the straight lines of the lattice work.
Now, pay attention...NO HIGH SPEED TOOLS! This silver plastic is almost like a hard rubber so invest in a razor saw. Also, the bottom section has a different cut line. This is for added strength so don't go 'woochering' on those parts yet. More soon.
 
Thanks for the kind words blakeh1...now to finish Empiflakes tutorial. For the bottom section, I would make the cut just to remove the end piece (with the two 'Xs' and two blanks on each side removed). That is marked Third cut. Then on the spare section make your cut on the line I've labeled Fourth Cut. This approach makes the join seams to be offset and giving the final assembly a stronger build. Now for the side panels...I never really pondered them ( The ones for my project are so heavily modified that it doesn't really jive with the original). All I can say is that if you get past the stuff I have shown you, then modifying the side panels shouldn't be too hard.
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Good advice, but if you don't want to ruin one of the few remaining original kits, do what I did. Put the main body sections together with heavy duty tape, so they don't move. Seal off the section you want to mold with plasticine wrapped completely around the model, at either end of that section. Then, suspending that part in a tupperware box or other suitable container, make one half of a silicone mold from this part.
Once the silicone has cured,turn it over and repeat.
Extra side panels can be made by pressing the original panels into plasticine and the casting resin into them. Once cured, trim to fit!
Caution, if using this method be sure to put the parts into the silicon liquid at an angle to begin and agitate the liquid ,so to avoid air bubbles forming in the fine detail!
 
  • Greetings fans, I'm back for now but not on this project. I'll be posting a new thread about the last big project I actually finished. Moebius' Flying Sub kit... with all of the bells and whistles (and a couple of special modifications. Below is a teaser pic and hope to get back to the Cygnus stuff soon. Thanks
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