MPC Cygnus

Greetings folks, sorry that this thread has stalled. However, I have recently seen that the big scale Shapeways projects from Nwerke and PrimativeDave have really advanced recently. This has influenced me to fish out this project and get it closer to the goal line (a finished model in a display case). Am currently fabricating new side drums (spaceports) out of PVC. Pictures soon, I promise.
Also, I have had time to ponder a few Items that I dreaded having to tackle... the antennas and the supports for the transport tubes for example. I'm afraid that the way I am wired these things that are more for the end of the project have a tendency to set me in a feedback loop ( actually loose sleep over these things).
 
Being a machinist, it makes sense to turn these side pieces out of out of PVC. Using grey PVC , I turned the drums and then set up the spacer head to cut the grooves for the side ribs. A 3/16" hole will receive a piece of brass tubing for mounting. I am using fishing line CA'ed in the grooves to replicate the ribs. Yes, we have action pictures.
1cyg2.JPG 1cyg3.JPG 1cyg1.JPG 1cyg.jpg
 
Thanks Frankpr01 and thanks for posting the Ellenshaw print in my absence. I got both drums 'lined' and are going through the body work phase. I'll reuse the kit tops but I turned new bottoms from grey PVC. I still need to turn a detail ring that will go under the top(s). One pic this time...more later.
1cyg.jpg
 
Is anyone doing phototech for the MPC Cygnus? I'd love to get all the little antenna dishes and maybe some of the girder supports done. I tried a home brew photoetch a few years back, but had mixed results.
 
Welcome aboard 32buds and Hunk a Junk and thanks. I'll comment more on this project's hiatus a little later. As for photo etch, there is a picture of some in the posting above the one of me with my big red Dalek (page 5). I am meaning to contact NoCoolName about that later. There is the Cygnus model that I mentioned earlier in this post that is lit and done with photo etched parts that the modeler drew up on Corele. I've gots to go to (real) work now... will clarify later.
 
Hey, don't get ahead of yourself. The photo etch shown is on NoCoolNames post. I haven't gotten to that yet. My work it to take MPC's offering to the Nth degree (using plastic and resins). However, I will look into Photo-etch for the finer details ( if the other plans that I'm thinking about don't pan out).
 
Hey, don't get ahead of yourself. The photo etch shown is on NoCoolNames post.

Woop. Sorry bout that. That's what I get for trying to post while working. I've been doing the same thing on my Cygnus, but it's been sitting on the shelf unfinished for the last few years. I extended the length of the main hull by adding a section from a second kit and have been detailing the engines and piping using styrene rod and parts from the spares box. I know at some point, however, I'm going to need photo etch to make the 5 million antennas all over the ship. If only Paragrafix came to the rescue!
 
Yeah, I managed to have three of these kits at one time ( got the last two in one Ebay with some missing parts), when I started casting copies for the lattice and the extra hull sections I decided to part with one. The copy kit is being used for parts and the third I'm keeping for reference. I am still thinking of displaying it unpainted with this one when its finished. I like comparative subjects.
I did have some issues with being overwhelmed with what has to be done. To get my mind right is took all of the parts that I've made and separated them into three boxes. Front rear and center sections. The goal for now is to get the center section looking like the center section and not a bunch of parts. This also means that I need to do the stand and work out the lighting system. That's the goal...good luck.
I have noticed a few things about the spine lattices, in making up the full lengths (and filling the void that is covered by the solid antenna boxes) I got one too many wide "X" frames between the groupings of narrow "X" frames. The pictures shows a comparison with the side pieces. Time for surgery, using a sharp blade and a fine file I took care of the bottom lattice today and will do the top one soon. Also, an overview of my desk in my office.
1cygD1.jpg 1cygD2.JPG 1cygD3.jpg 1cygD.JPG
 
Here's some test pictures of what I've been working on. Over the past weeks, I've finished the first center section light box halves. In a difficult turn for me I find myself having to build the boxes without the two things that I've crutch on it my modeling career...primer and glazing putty. I've settled on Krylon Bahaus Gold for the light panels. This will give the model the lit look without the lights being on. The test results show what I was wanting... something that will look good in a lightly lit room. Enjoy the pictures.

1cyglite1.JPG 1cyglite2.jpg 1cyglite4.jpg 1cyglite3.jpg
1cyglite5.jpg
 
Thanks Frankpr01, I was trying for a subtle look. I've recently gotten some hands on work with LED's versus light strips and the strips give the desired effect (both in spacing and lumens). I've had to cut a hole in the top and bottom spine lattice and light box for the light strip to shine into the antenna box.
Today I got most of the display stand worked out and hope to have the bottom lattice pieces finish sanded and glued together as one unit. One picture of the antenna box test for now. :cool (Sorry that its a little blurry)
1cyglite.JPG
 
I have to ask....What kind of plastic and thickness did you use for the lightbox? Is it white or transparent? Is the Krylon Bahaus Gold that translucent even though it looks opaque?
 
Good question...the light boxes are made from 0.30" styrene. It is white, which is better than trying to build constructs from clear. I got the idea for the white plastic and the Bahaus Gold from one of the other Cygnus models that I mentioned earlier on this thread...Starship Modeler: Gallery (Other Sci-Fi). However, I'm going to try to finish this thing without Photo-etched brass. Now, on to the paint, Paint is either pigment or based with white. For example Krylon Sun Yellow is pigment (just yellow that does not cover any dark blemishes). A base coat of white makes it pop. Krylon Maze yellow has white in its mix so no need for a base coat. Bahaus seems to have white in its mix (Haven't had much experience with it) so my approach is to sand out all of the marks from cutting and construction and only apply two light coats if possible. The amount of light that shows through is perfect for my taste.
 
Fantastic job!!!!

you can also use opaque/frosted plastic or get clear plastic which you can wetsand and polish to a frosted finish and airbrush with Tamiya clear yellow.
 
Hey Hey, new player... thanks for weighing in GF (congrats on catching Spidey {avatar} in action). I prefer keeping my interaction with clear plastic to a minimum... I always seem to get a fingerprint of some other blemish. I'll stick with the white plastic for this one.
I'm currently working on finishing out the top and bottom frames so I can FINALLY start putting things together. The goal is to get the upper and lower boxes and central frames put together as one piece (top and bottom), like the kit. In 'cleaning' the excess plastic off of the central pieces, the lattices on the corners got broken off. I am currently work on a set of molds to make replacements for the most delicate of the lattices on this model. I'm using Micro-marks microwavable Composi-mold stuff. More soon. Oh yeah, GF, my wife if from the Great White North, too.
 
Hey Hey, new player... thanks for weighing in GF (congrats on catching Spidey {avatar} in action). I prefer keeping my interaction with clear plastic to a minimum... I always seem to get a fingerprint of some other blemish. I'll stick with the white plastic for this one.
I'm currently working on finishing out the top and bottom frames so I can FINALLY start putting things together. The goal is to get the upper and lower boxes and central frames put together as one piece (top and bottom), like the kit. In 'cleaning' the excess plastic off of the central pieces, the lattices on the corners got broken off. I am currently work on a set of molds to make replacements for the most delicate of the lattices on this model. I'm using Micro-marks microwavable Composi-mold stuff. More soon. Oh yeah, GF, my wife if from the Great White North, too.


That's me in my Spidey costume ;) Love your build this is a very complicated ship to get looking right, are all the parts available to print out if someone wants to build one?

were is your wife from? I'm from Montreal

GFollano
 

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top