Duel Truck

Thank you Ray and thank you CB2001. I had no idea there was a paper model of this truck and I'm going to take a close look at trailer section of this to see if it gives me any ideas.

Net, I worked on the front fenders. With the front end more narrow, I'll have to fill in these gaps between the hood and fenders.

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Here you can see some things on the outside edge of the fender and something that looks like a step that's on the front and back of these.

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I trimmed and filed those off and added some dents and dings to the fenders. They came out looking deeper in these photos so I'll have to smooth them out.

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I first cut out the wedge pieces that go between the fenders and hood with 4 mm wide on one end and 10 mm wide on the other end and 54 mm long. When I curved and taped them into place, they didn't turn out good enough and the fenders looked like they were angled inward toward the front, so I then made another two pieces at 4 mm wide and 11 mm wide and kept it at 54 mm long. This came out looking better.

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I forgot to mention that at the bottom of the sides of the hood where the fenders connect, I cut out two strips at 7 mm by 55 mm. I also cut this piece of with a nice sharp blade because I'm going to redo that side of the hood as well.

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Nice! Can't wait to see what the end result looks like. And I do hope the papercraft model gives some ideas on the trailer. :)
 
Thank you guys.

Some little updates here. I've made the sides of the hood. The driver's side is 55 mm X 18 mm. The passenger side has two pieces, 13 mm X 18 mm which is by the door and I will be cutting out a hole in this one and 42 mm X 18 mm for the front part.

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I also have a picture of the inside of the fenders. You can see the first wedge cuts I did that were too small was used as extra support for the correct size pieces.

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Then some test fitting shots.

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I also removed the airbags and replaced them with leaf springs from another truck set. They don't match at all but it really won't be seen. I just didn't want to see airbag suspension from low rear angles of the tractor.

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Back to the doors. I added a small strip at the bottom like it's supposed to have and I fine tuned the fit of the doors by lightly filing and sanding the opening that I intentionally under cut.

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I will have to fill those holes that's behind the driver's side door.
 
I decided next to work on the swamp cooler that's behind the driver.

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I spent a lot of time digging around looking for something that would work for the vents. After a couple of days doing that, I just thought I'd try scratch building it instead.

I started of with a small 2 cm X 2 cm square with two 5 mm X 14 mm openings cut out. Then I started cutting tiny pieces for the vents and glued them in one at a time at an angle.

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I did that twice and cut out some pieces making the whole swamp cooler 1 cm wide.

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I also scratch built a tool box which is located here.

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And built that yellow air cleaner thing just in front of the passenger door. The top of the tool box is 3 cm X 2 cm. The box part under that is a couple of mm smaller and 14 mm tall.

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Then I build the tiny spot light that sits between the passenger side window and front windshield and the handle that runs into the cab.

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I sanded and puttied the roof again because it just wasn't smooth enough.

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I attached the swamp cooler and gave it all a coat of flat black.

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Thanks for looking.
 
Thank you Durrett and Katsu-san. I made a temporary one out of cardboard first to test out the size and adjusted from there. I plan on doing that with the trailer too. I'll first make a paper and cardboard one to test out the measurements before I start cutting styrene.
 
Update time.

I extended the frame by 1 cm. You can see here where I made the cut in the frame. I then added some thin sheets to get the frame in place then added styrene and putty to fill the rest and make smooth.

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I also added the metal plates that go on top of the frame. I cut 2 pieces at 34 mm X 41 mm and 1 piece at 34 mm X 19 mm.

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I wasn't happy wit the air cleaner thing I made. It just looks too small and should look more like what's pictured here.

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I took one of the kit parts and started cutting it up.

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Here's the new one compared to the old one. A more accurate size and shape.

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The red top is from the spot putty I use.

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Then for the hose. I first took the kit one, cut it up and reshaped it.

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Thanks for looking.
 
Good job on the frame works, Randy-san!
The air cleaner looks very accurate to the one in a pic.
And the pic of the spot putty is valuable info to me.
I haven't known such handy thing.
I am always bothered with the mixing the poly putty.
I am going to look for the similar one here.
Thanks !
 
...And the pic of the spot putty is valuable info to me.
I haven't known such handy thing.
I am always bothered with the mixing the poly putty.
I am going to look for the similar one here.
Thanks !
Just to give you a little more information, it's called Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty and it's primarily used for auto body repair to fill minor scratches and air bubbles (not the Body Filler). Here in the U.S. you can find it in almost any auto parts store. It's really more of a "thick cream" than a "putty", so it's good for filling minor seams and other surface imperfections, and adding minor surface detail, but it's really not suitable for sculpting like you can with most putties. But it sands easily, so blending edges is simple. I've been using it for several years now, and in my opinion it's much better than most "modeling" putties.
 
Zombie_61-san
Thanks to your quick additional info, I could find it and ordered already!
Same product is selling at Amazon!:love

Thank you very much!

katsu
 
Thank you Katsu-san and thank you Zombie for explaining the spot putty perfectly. I’ve had problems with modeling putties when it came to sanding and etching. The modeling putty would get too brittle and crumble on me while the spot putty stays together. One thing about the spot putty is that it does shrink a little so I usually have to pile a thick coat of the putty first, then sand and apply a second coat of putty to get a good fill.

I didn’t take a picture of the top part of the air cleaner but it’s two 1/72 tank tread wheels put together with a little strip of styrene (the white part). The top half of the wheel here has a center part that sticks up a little. I just added some putty around the part that sticks up and then added some on the top. Once it dried, I just sanded it to the shape you see. It was easier than I thought it would be. If it didn’t have that little middle piece sticking up, I would have had to add some styrene bit there to get the bulk of the shape before adding the spot putty or go with a sculpting putty like Apoxie Sculpt.
 
Zombie_61-san
Thanks to your quick additional info, I could find it and ordered already!
Same product is selling at Amazon!:love

Thank you very much!

katsu
You're very welcome. I'm always willing to share the extremely minor amount of information I have with other modelers. :D

...One thing about the spot putty is that it does shrink a little so I usually have to pile a thick coat of the putty first, then sand and apply a second coat of putty to get a good fill.
Just an fyi, Bondo's Spot Putty can warp/distort/melt thin styrene if used in large quantities; filling a hollow part, for example. It hasn't happened to me, but I've seen one example where a modeler used it to fill the hollow feet on his Revell Rat Fink kit, and by the time it had cured the tops of the feet looked like raisins.
 
Just an fyi, Bondo's Spot Putty can warp/distort/melt thin styrene if used in large quantities; filling a hollow part, for example. It hasn't happened to me, but I've seen one example where a modeler used it to fill the hollow feet on his Revell Rat Fink kit, and by the time it had cured the tops of the feet looked like raisins.

Wow, this is good to know. Thank you very much for this info. I will be sure not to overdo it.

When I test fit the front fenders, something wasn't quite right. I realized I had to make a little adjustment and cut about 2 1/2 mm off as shown here.

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Next I had to remake the front bumper. I first cut it out of cardboard at 94 mm wide and 10 mm high. I made the bottom angle cuts 15 mm from the ends and 2 mm from the bottom. I hope that made sense.

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Then it was cut out of styrene with a top and bottom added to make the bumper curve at the ends.

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Then the railroad tracks. I had some "I" beams that seemed to fit perfectly the I-beams are 4 mm wide. I cut off one end of the I-beam and replaced is with a 2 1/2 mm strip to get the right look. I had some small plastic straw that is about 2 mm in diameter that fit just right. I cut those at 9 mm and attached them all together.

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You can kind of see in the right rectangle cut out on the front bumper there is some kind of tube thing in there, so I added one to mine.

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Here's a closeup of the bumper and railroad tracks.

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You did a good work on the bumper.
You don't miss anything. I can't wait to see it painted. Especially, I want to see your weathering job!!


You're very welcome. I'm always willing to share the extremely minor amount of information I have with other modelers. :D

Just an fyi, Bondo's Spot Putty can warp/distort/melt thin styrene if used in large quantities; filling a hollow part, for example. It hasn't happened to me, but I've seen one example where a modeler used it to fill the hollow feet on his Revell Rat Fink kit, and by the time it had cured the tops of the feet looked like raisins.

And Randy-san, Zombie_61-san.

Thank you very much for your info.
I've just got my spot putty a couple of days ago.
Mine is Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty 2 which is the green thing.
Half pound tube. It is enough for next decades:D

It's really handy!
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katsu
 
Katsu-san. I'm very happy the putty is working for you. I'm looking forward to more progress on your ship too.

I wanted to add some details to the sides of the hood. I tried to make these look as functional as possible.

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Then I cut off the front little pieces that held the kit hood in place.

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On the inside of the front bumper, I had to trim down the support pieces I had in the middle for it to fit on the truck properly.

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When I test fitted the fenders I realized I had to trim the angled part a little so it would meet the hood properly. This is marked my the pencil lines.

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Then a little test fit.

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I had to add a very thin piece of styrene to the front so the grille would attach better.

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