Cap Fitzgerald
Active Member
In the name of the doctor and nightmare in silver the waistcoat looks really purple, is it actually maroon?
Doctor Who - Eleventh Doctor costumes
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Risu
Master Member
I say maroon to differentiate it from the cooler purple that's way more common. It's not as red as Tennant's shoes, just a lot warmer than the majority of purples. Here's a shot without and with flash of the velvet I bought for it with the buttons (similar) and some of the coat buttons, which need the patina/paint stripped and to be blackened, and the tie fabric (not accurate, but it'll do the trick). Also a swatch of the cashmere I'll be picking up.
Also I think I found the trouser fabric online, from the last place I ever expected to find anything good or accurate. More on that once it arrives.
Also I think I found the trouser fabric online, from the last place I ever expected to find anything good or accurate. More on that once it arrives.
greatwazoo42
Master Member
Damned good work!
Risu
Master Member
Thanks! I'm picking up the cashmere tomorrow and I'll be keeping an eye out for the gimp trim. If I don't find it tomorrow I'll just order it online.
Also, this just came in and I'm pretty happy with it overall.
The Paul Smith one needs to have the diamond darkened, the Dream Lord needs to be lightened a little, the Snowmen I think actually looks really great, but if anybody wants to make any recommendations for improvement, please do. The Journey shirting I'm not totally sure about. I think the blue might need to be desaturated slightly.
Also, this just came in and I'm pretty happy with it overall.
The Paul Smith one needs to have the diamond darkened, the Dream Lord needs to be lightened a little, the Snowmen I think actually looks really great, but if anybody wants to make any recommendations for improvement, please do. The Journey shirting I'm not totally sure about. I think the blue might need to be desaturated slightly.
greatwazoo42
Master Member
I have to admit that of all Smith's outfits the most recent is my favorite but I have a thing for Victorian/Edwardian. I do like all of them, though.
Risu
Master Member
No, I didn't. I don't think the grey one or the blue one is right, I'm almost positive there's a third purple color. None of the pictures look like the blue or the grey. I did completely redraw the pattern, though, to match the weave of the real thing.
The large blue section of that swatch was an attempt to make a matching tab collar for my own shirt. Because of the diamonds it doesn't quite do the trick. The next one should. That was just a personal thing, though. The actual print in my library is purple.
The large blue section of that swatch was an attempt to make a matching tab collar for my own shirt. Because of the diamonds it doesn't quite do the trick. The next one should. That was just a personal thing, though. The actual print in my library is purple.
Risu
Master Member
The Paul Smith shirt has a few details that are a bit different. The placket isn't as wide, no tab collar, the last button hole is vertical instead of horizontal, and the cuff button holes are purple. Also best I could tell from screen grabs, the screen used shirts don't have Paul Smith buttons on them. So it is likely they were made in house, not by Paul Smith, but the fabric is absolutely this Paul Smith fabric.
EDIT: Also, I got some more fabrics today. The cashmere, black silk velvet for the waistcoat lapels and pocket welts, and two colors of Bemberg rayon lining.
Also, here are the Steve Madden boots I dyed. The purple color didn't take at all, but it kind of works out since the Snowmen boots weren't purple.
EDIT: Also, I got some more fabrics today. The cashmere, black silk velvet for the waistcoat lapels and pocket welts, and two colors of Bemberg rayon lining.
Also, here are the Steve Madden boots I dyed. The purple color didn't take at all, but it kind of works out since the Snowmen boots weren't purple.
Last edited:
Risu
Master Member
And the trouser fabric has arrived. Because of the difference in scale, it's obviously not the screen used fabric, but the pattern itself looks to me to be dead on otherwise. The colors are maybe a little light, but it's hard to tell with the way they mess with the lighting in those publicity stills. The scale doesn't actually bother me because Matt Smith's legs are about as big around as my arms, so with this larger pattern I should come out closer to the correct number of checks around my leg than I would with the real stuff. Anyway, picture:
It's listed on Denver fabrics and all of the other sites that are all the same store as golden check coating for I think $14 a yard. It's a much rougher wool in contrast to the coat cashmere, so I'm going to have to line the trousers.
It's listed on Denver fabrics and all of the other sites that are all the same store as golden check coating for I think $14 a yard. It's a much rougher wool in contrast to the coat cashmere, so I'm going to have to line the trousers.
Cap Fitzgerald
Active Member
Definitely worth it for the price, they'll work for a Journey cosplay too, so double win.
Risu
Master Member
No pictures today, but the trouser pattern is finished and the buckle for the back belt has been ordered. I also found better reference for the coat buttons, so I'll start hunting for better ones soon.
Oh, and I ordered 3 yards of my Spoonflower fabric for the shirt, the braided gimping trim from the UK site, and bought some vintage cuff links on ebay. They're not accurate by a long shot, but they have a similar design and they're pretty cool looking.
Oh, and I ordered 3 yards of my Spoonflower fabric for the shirt, the braided gimping trim from the UK site, and bought some vintage cuff links on ebay. They're not accurate by a long shot, but they have a similar design and they're pretty cool looking.
Risu
Master Member
The trousers are currently a pile of pieces, no news there. Waiting on the lining fabric to sew them up, hopefully this weekend. In the meantime, I got some other stuff started. The cuff links I ordered on ebay came in. Not accurate, but I like them. They fit the overall look.
Second, my girlfriend found a vintage men's dress form in my exact size in an antique store for $10. After looking around, I'd guess the original price was somewhere around $300-400, so really great deal. Anyway, I threw the half finished Tom Baker coat I made at the beginning of this year on there and discovered that the Laughing Moon frock coat pattern is a complete piece of crap. I had already made a few edits before cutting this coat, and looking at it now I can see at least 3 more really big ones it needs. The waist seam needs to be straightened in the back (it curves down as is), The front of the coat needs to have about 1" slashed out of the lapel area out to the armhole to fix the outward bowing of the lapels, about 2" needs to be removed from the back of the armhole in the small side back piece, 1/4"-1/2" needs to be added at the shoulder sloping in to the neck to allow for shoulder pads and reduce the insanely sloped shoulders, and the armholes need to be completely redrawn and moved forward.
tl;dr: HORRIBLE PATTERN.
Second, my girlfriend found a vintage men's dress form in my exact size in an antique store for $10. After looking around, I'd guess the original price was somewhere around $300-400, so really great deal. Anyway, I threw the half finished Tom Baker coat I made at the beginning of this year on there and discovered that the Laughing Moon frock coat pattern is a complete piece of crap. I had already made a few edits before cutting this coat, and looking at it now I can see at least 3 more really big ones it needs. The waist seam needs to be straightened in the back (it curves down as is), The front of the coat needs to have about 1" slashed out of the lapel area out to the armhole to fix the outward bowing of the lapels, about 2" needs to be removed from the back of the armhole in the small side back piece, 1/4"-1/2" needs to be added at the shoulder sloping in to the neck to allow for shoulder pads and reduce the insanely sloped shoulders, and the armholes need to be completely redrawn and moved forward.
tl;dr: HORRIBLE PATTERN.
Risu
Master Member
Long day of mostly sitting and thinking today. Going over the edits I'll need to make to the frock coat pattern and figuring out how to sew the waistcoat with the half collar. Still a little unsure of that one. I've figured out a way to do it, but it feels wrong to me, a little sloppy.
Anyway, I've also got the trousers about halfway done. I need to cut new side entry pockets, but the waistband and back belt are assembled, and the back welt pocket is in (first time I've set welts separate from the actual pockets, was pretty damn easy. I think I've found a new favorite way of doing it.) I might finish up the button fly tonight and maybe pattern the pockets, but probably not cut them. A little burnt out. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get them mostly done. I'm going up to LA probably Wednesday to get lining fabric for them since I've misplaced the stuff I had.
Anyway, I've also got the trousers about halfway done. I need to cut new side entry pockets, but the waistband and back belt are assembled, and the back welt pocket is in (first time I've set welts separate from the actual pockets, was pretty damn easy. I think I've found a new favorite way of doing it.) I might finish up the button fly tonight and maybe pattern the pockets, but probably not cut them. A little burnt out. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get them mostly done. I'm going up to LA probably Wednesday to get lining fabric for them since I've misplaced the stuff I had.
Cap Fitzgerald
Active Member
So wait, since I figure I missed it, but what Trim did you end up getting for the waistcoat and frock coat?
Risu
Master Member
This stuff:
Gimped Braid 10mm x 12.5m - sewing-online.com
If it's not accurate, I can't tell, at least not from the picture on their site.
The trousers are as finished as they can get until I get up to LA to get the lining fabric. The trip got bumped to Thursday. Here they are without a waistband, buttons, and the proper cuff/hem with my Tom Baker waistcoat to determine how I'll need to alter the bottom of the pattern to overlap the trousers properly.
Gimped Braid 10mm x 12.5m - sewing-online.com
If it's not accurate, I can't tell, at least not from the picture on their site.
The trousers are as finished as they can get until I get up to LA to get the lining fabric. The trip got bumped to Thursday. Here they are without a waistband, buttons, and the proper cuff/hem with my Tom Baker waistcoat to determine how I'll need to alter the bottom of the pattern to overlap the trousers properly.
greatwazoo42
Master Member
Looks good! Are you planning on cutting the pants overly high like they did for Matt?
Risu
Master Member
Actually, Matt's trousers aren't really cut high. They're pretty close to regular height, they just have a low seat and a tiny belt added on the back to make them look like old-fashioned high-waisted trousers. It becomes painfully obvious in Journey when every move he makes exposes his shirt and braces under his vest. I added an inch above the normal height of my regular slacks pattern, and I actually think that's higher than his are, but I'd rather not have that same problem.
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