Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

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No I have not tested it yet. I think given it is the same as the darker grey I painted the V1s with that it should be the same. That stuff never cracked and won't come off unless you use acetone.
 
No I have not tested it yet. I think given it is the same as the darker grey I painted the V1s with that it should be the same. That stuff never cracked and won't come off unless you use acetone.

Thanks,
which colour did you get this time? is it supposed to be light grey on the can or is just written as grey?

Also, if you were to empty this paint into a jar, do you think its possible to mix this with some textured paint and then applying it by brush?

I've built up the toearea on a couple of pairs of V2 soles with shoe goo, but since the shoe goo bit has no pattern or texture, i'm having to pain the entire soles so they have a little bit of texture on them to cover up the existing one.

I'm just trying to figure out which textured paint will mix with this vinyl paint.
I have some rustoleum textured spray paints, but not sure if these would mix with that duplicolor paint, or whether standard acrylic texture gel medium will mix with it.
 
Thanks,
which colour did you get this time? is it supposed to be light grey on the can or is just written as grey?

10615464_10152674581738841_74266118640899307_n.jpg


This image is pretty close when you compare the grey to the white. It is much lighter than the shade I used on the V1s (and that test video). If you did an 11 step grey scale where 0 is black and 11 is white, this grey is about 8 or 9. The previous grey would be a 5 and their dark grey is about a 3. I plan on using the dark grey for my sleeves of the 2015 jacket I am making. The grey of the V2 midsole is probably about 7.

Also, if you were to empty this paint into a jar, do you think its possible to mix this with some textured paint and then applying it by brush?

It might, not sure as I have only sprayed this type of paint so far and not rolled or brushed it yet. I am also going to take another look at the polyester primer I use to seal MDF on speakers I make. This stuff forms a polymer coating and dries hard. Interestingly enough, it is also dries very flexible (because it is designed for the automotive industry which use a lot of plastic parts) and when I used a roller, gave a very random textured surface. Once cured (full cure takes 24 hours) it is extremely durable. I got some of this on my shirt and thought it would just peel off once dry. Wrong. It was there for the life of the shirt and it never peeled away. It was just a firmer version of the cloth bending and flexing without issue. The colour of the stuff I used last time was also the PERFECT grey for the mid-soles.

I've built up the toearea on a couple of pairs of V2 soles with shoe goo, but since the shoe goo bit has no pattern or texture, i'm having to pain the entire soles so they have a little bit of texture on them to cover up the existing one.

I'm just trying to figure out which textured paint will mix with this vinyl paint.
I have some rustoleum textured spray paints, but not sure if these would mix with that duplicolor paint, or whether standard acrylic texture gel medium will mix with it.

Really don't have the answer for you there. Seems some experimentation might be on order.
 
https://scontent-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net...=b3d12d2bce1868ac170746eee79dc224&oe=54E91163

This image is pretty close when you compare the grey to the white. It is much lighter than the shade I used on the V1s (and that test video). If you did an 11 step grey scale where 0 is black and 11 is white, this grey is about 8 or 9. The previous grey would be a 5 and their dark grey is about a 3. I plan on using the dark grey for my sleeves of the 2015 jacket I am making. The grey of the V2 midsole is probably about 7.



It might, not sure as I have only sprayed this type of paint so far and not rolled or brushed it yet. I am also going to take another look at the polyester primer I use to seal MDF on speakers I make. This stuff forms a polymer coating and dries hard. Interestingly enough, it is also dries very flexible (because it is designed for the automotive industry which use a lot of plastic parts) and when I used a roller, gave a very random textured surface. Once cured (full cure takes 24 hours) it is extremely durable. I got some of this on my shirt and thought it would just peel off once dry. Wrong. It was there for the life of the shirt and it never peeled away. It was just a firmer version of the cloth bending and flexing without issue. The colour of the stuff I used last time was also the PERFECT grey for the mid-soles.



Really don't have the answer for you there. Seems some experimentation might be on order.

hi
thanks
whats the polyester primer you used?
does it come in a spray can or is it brush on?

maybe a mix of two paints might be useful.
 
hi
thanks
whats the polyester primer you used?
does it come in a spray can or is it brush on?

maybe a mix of two paints might be useful.

I don't remember the name. It comes in a can and you add a catalyst to it during mixing, so essentially a 2PAK primer paint with an exothermic reaction - the more cat you add, the hotter it gets and the faster it goes off. When mixed to proper ratios, it has a liquid pot life of about 10 minutes to which it goes into a gel state. After about an hour, it has started to cure and go hard. You work it just as it enters the the gel state to get the texture and it will support itself without self leveling. Because it is a primer (and once cured), the aqua splatter will stick really well. You could even seal it with a clear, but based on how this stuff has worked out in the past, I wouldn't bother.

I'll see if I can find it at the local auto place and snap a picture so you can source a local version. Just know the fumes it gives off are positively nasty, so be sure you use this in a very well ventilated area.
 
Is the blotchyness permanent?

No. If you use a product like super glue or shoe goo to attach, the adhesive fills in the surface scratches and the parts go clear again. You will never get a glass like finish in the 2 part mold because the master was never that smooth to begin with and silicone makes a perfect negative of that.

When I did my very first test pair (just side parts), I poured those in a single piece, open back mold. Doing it this way will set smoother because the elastomer self levels and sets against air, but you have no control on the actual thickness of the part and you can't do vertical or curved surfaces like these parts have.

I'll probably buff all the inside surfaces to give them the 'cloudy' white look that helps diffuse the light better.
 
No. If you use a product like super glue or shoe goo to attach, the adhesive fills in the surface scratches and the parts go clear again. You will never get a glass like finish in the 2 part mold because the master was never that smooth to begin with and silicone makes a perfect negative of that.

When I did my very first test pair (just side parts), I poured those in a single piece, open back mold. Doing it this way will set smoother because the elastomer self levels and sets against air, but you have no control on the actual thickness of the part and you can't do vertical or curved surfaces like these parts have.

I'll probably buff all the inside surfaces to give them the 'cloudy' white look that helps diffuse the light better.
Interesting to know. Thanks.
 
hey all received my mags from karin and started taking them apart today.i got 1 of my straps done and messed up the other el panel for the other (new to soldering).i have a pretty good understanding on the strap and el sole upgrade but was wondering if it is possible to use the existing leds and how to wire to them.im using a 9 volt setup if that makes any difference,just dont know where the red,green,blue,and white wires are.everything else i pretty much have a handle on(thanks to all the great info and tutorials from you all)but this is driving me bannas,lol!thanks in advance for any help you may give and i am also interested in the clear soles cavx will be making so if you see this please p.m me price and details,thanks.
 
Cavx just for fun could you provide a picture of your clear soles to match up with this picture? It's what we're hoping the real V3s will look like. The midsole and heel cup on this should also be a lighter grey.
10306538_10203274234324691_2285380375563127795_n.jpg
 
Cavx just for fun could you provide a picture of your clear soles to match up with this picture? It's what we're hoping the real V3s will look like. The midsole and heel cup on this should also be a lighter grey.
10306538_10203274234324691_2285380375563127795_n.jpg

My photoshop skills are the worst. I did have a play in paint and it didn't work out so great.
 
Just to be clear, I think Airair is trying to get a replica with better uppers made, but without the branding, right?
So in order for it to look like this picture you would still need to modify the strap, add the swoosh logo and the Nike Mag lettering on the back.
 
Just to be clear, I think Airair is trying to get a replica with better uppers made, but without the branding, right?
So in order for it to look like this picture you would still need to modify the strap, add the swoosh logo and the Nike Mag lettering on the back.

True. If aiair's plan ends up becoming a reality, then anyone who buys the new shoes would no doubt add the swoosh and mod everything else that needs it.
 
Yep, wouldn't be hard to cut a swoosh out of some fake leather and some MAG lettering out of rubber sheet.
Hangin out for seeing the samples almost as much as Airair must be...... :D
 
Markpoon has a thread for the Nike MAG letters so he would probably help us out if we need it by selling more.
 
Markpoon has a thread for the Nike MAG letters so he would probably help us out if we need it by selling more.

Hope they are closer to the real MAG letter size. One of my goals is to mod the Heel Cup with larger letters. Even a set of the foam ones he did for his original MAGs might be useful.
 
What glue is used for the soles or karins shoes ??

Special hot melt adhesive which is pressure set. Its commonly a solvent based adhesive, but it can be non solvent also i've heard.
They use this type of glue in most shoe factories, I can't imagine it smells very pleasant!

- - - Updated - - -

hey all received my mags from karin and started taking them apart today.i got 1 of my straps done and messed up the other el panel for the other (new to soldering).i have a pretty good understanding on the strap and el sole upgrade but was wondering if it is possible to use the existing leds and how to wire to them.im using a 9 volt setup if that makes any difference,just dont know where the red,green,blue,and white wires are.everything else i pretty much have a handle on(thanks to all the great info and tutorials from you all)but this is driving me bannas,lol!thanks in advance for any help you may give and i am also interested in the clear soles cavx will be making so if you see this please p.m me price and details,thanks.

You can't really reuse anything of the existing wiring. The LEDs they come with are so small and dim, they are frankly useless.

Your best bet is to solder correct 3mm LEDs and finish the setup properly, as it will make a big difference to the overall look.

- - - Updated - - -

hey all received my mags from karin and started taking them apart today.i got 1 of my straps done and messed up the other el panel for the other (new to soldering).i have a pretty good understanding on the strap and el sole upgrade but was wondering if it is possible to use the existing leds and how to wire to them.im using a 9 volt setup if that makes any difference,just dont know where the red,green,blue,and white wires are.everything else i pretty much have a handle on(thanks to all the great info and tutorials from you all)but this is driving me bannas,lol!thanks in advance for any help you may give and i am also interested in the clear soles cavx will be making so if you see this please p.m me price and details,thanks.

You can't really reuse anything of the existing wiring. The LEDs they come with are so small and dim, they are frankly useless.

Your best bet is to solder correct 3mm LEDs and finish the setup properly, as it will make a big difference to the overall look.
 
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